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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Alrighty--here we go. Pics to come. This tractor is equipped with solenoid controls for the hydraulic lift. What I am attempting is to either figure out how the things work and repair...or cobble together an override control. I looked at a thousand pics and decided that the Ford 1500 lift surely would bolt straight on to my sd, and got one on ebay. Nope. Not the same dimensions. I'm still going to sit the 1500 lift on it for pics for proof, in case anyone else is thinking about trying it. I'll make all the mistakes so keep an eye on this thread if you have or are thinking about picking up a Shibaura.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
We are going to figure this out together. Dad gum it, if somebody made these things, they can be figured out!

Never give up! Never surrender!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Here's the piston with it's new seal installed. Got a seal from Messicks--SBA050309012, found the part number on New Holland's website. Very nice of them to carry the parts listings on these legacy machines. You can save the listings as a pdf file as well. Has exploded diagrams and all the part numbers. I was going by 1700 tractor, as that one seems to match this 2200 best.

edit--put the seal in a cat food can with some safflower oil, heated it up to 200 in the oven, went on easy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Side by side pic of the lift from the 2200 and the Ford 1500 lift I picked up. The head looks very close--may be the same one, but the base of the lift cover is smaller than the 2200 cover.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Tested the ports on the side of the lift with air pressure, after I got the cylinder in and head bolted down. The right port pressure makes the lift rise. The middle one is apparently the "line in" from the pump. Blow air in it, and it comes out of the hole where the steel line from the pump attaches. The left port I think lets the lift down. Air directed to this port is venting into the crankcase as far as I can tell.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I've got the solenoids taken apart but no pics yet. Drained the hydraulic fluid out this morning. Next step is to get some solvent and clean the oils off the solenoid and lift cover. Test the solenoids coils with a 12 volt source, then hope to find a close enough grey to shoot a coat on before I start bolting back together.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Finally getting back to wrap this up. I did get the lift to work through the solenoids. Had to totally bypass all the other control mechanisms and go with a direct switch. Grounded one of the solenoid leads to the chassis, the other to 12v with a "momentary" switch. Not the best fix of course, but it does work!

One switch for lift, one for lower.
 

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Nice heavy gears in that machine!! Glad you got it working with the solenoids. I guess that must've been done to save the need for linkages and the space they need.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thank you! Apparently they love the solenoid controls in Cambodia and Malaysia, the things have draft control built into them. I just wanted it to go up and down. I would like to get a hydraulic top link on it. There are some Shibaura grey market tractors with the regular lift controls, I got the "Deluxe" version though!
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
That (Japanese Manufacture) is one of the reasons I went with this one--abused as it is. I can tell this rig was made to last. Going to try pulling the head next year and see if I can get it reworked--burning oil--I'm thinking at least part of it is valve seals. I really need to split it and get the whole engine gone through, but I'll be leaning on it too much--going after the privet jungle--about 3 acres of it. Going to put that 4wd to the test and see if we can't just yank a bunch of the invasive crap plants up. : - ) I've also got some of the healthiest poison ivy ever!
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Finally got to work some more on the 2200 today, got a new battery put in, new glow plugs. checked the compression while I had the plugs out. Front cylinder has over 300 psi. Rear cylinder goes to about 100 psi and stays there with engine turning over. Any input on what may be going on? I did check the valve clearances--they were maybe just a tad off, set all to 30mm. I guess pulling the head is next. Any thoughts, ideas, other things to check? Thanks much!
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I've got a bore scope that runs on smart phones on the way. Going to see if I can get a good look in the cylinder and combustion chamber. I did get him to start for me---didn't run him for long, but enough to warm things up. Running with the air cleaner off, there is obvious "chuffing" coming from the intake--gotta be losing compression through the head/valve on that back cylinder. What a tough little machine though, to run on 1 and 1/4 cylinders. I'll update again when I get some pics of the insides.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Wow--couldn't get the cam in far enough to see valves, but here's what I could get from the back cylinder--going through the glowplug shaft.
2443921
2443922
20200115103632[1].jpg
20200115104233[1].jpg
20200115103632[1].jpg
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Not sure exactly what is going on in the rear cylinder, but it's time to pull the head I think. :oops: Maybe dropped a valve seat on the piston crown. Will update as I get deeper.
 

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Very interesting so far...Definately a 'learn as you go project'

glenn
 
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