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Well, after freeing stuck valves, disassemble and clean/reassemble carb. She fires right up. Forward and reverse backwards from my 5240. That's going to take some getting used to. I need to adjust some shift linkages and find out why my PTO won't disengage. But so far I like the L series a little better.

Now to wheel the '48 into the shed.
 

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Well, after freeing stuck valves, disassemble and clean/reassemble carb. She fires right up. Forward and reverse backwards from my 5240. That's going to take some getting used to. I need to adjust some shift linkages and find out why my PTO won't disengage. But so far I like the L series a little better.

Now to wheel the '48 into the shed.
I always like the way the lever on my old L works. When I am in unknown territory, whether it be pushing snow with the blade on a sidewalk with uneven expansion joints, or bush hogging in areas with stumps and other hidden obstacles, I push down on the lever to go forward with my open hand. Not locking it in, just pressing down enough to move forward. The instant the tractor hits something and stops, my hand automatically comes off the lever, saving a lot of wear and tear on the equipment.

A hint about backing up. I set my lever up to not be able to lock in going in reverse. And always before going in reverse, set yourself up to walk backwards. If you are not ready to move yourself back, the tractor moves backwards and if you are not moving with it, you naturally push harder on the reverse lever, and it tries to back over you. The first time it scares you doing this you will remember not to do it again.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Well, after freeing stuck valves, disassemble and clean/reassemble carb. She fires right up. Forward and reverse backwards from my 5240. That's going to take some getting used to. I need to adjust some shift linkages and find out why my PTO won't disengage. But so far I like the L series a little better.

Now to wheel the '48 into the shed.
I always like the way the lever on my old L works. When I am in unknown territory, whether it be pushing snow with the blade on a sidewalk with uneven expansion joints, or bush hogging in areas with stumps and other hidden obstacles, I push down on the lever to go forward with my open hand. Not locking it in, just pressing down enough to move forward. The instant the tractor hits something and stops, my hand automatically comes off the lever, saving a lot of wear and tear on the equipment.

A hint about backing up. I set my lever up to not be able to lock in going in reverse. And always before going in reverse, set yourself up to walk backwards. If you are not ready to move yourself back, the tractor moves backwards and if you are not moving with it, you naturally push harder on the reverse lever, and it tries to back over you. The first time it scares you doing this you will remember not to do it again.
I did some brush mowing today with the L8, jump started from my tractor. Without a battery it seems a little light on the front end. Guess I am going to have to put a battery in, as well as a solenoid and start switch. You are right on the scaring you part. Already adjusted to not lock into reverse. Getting used to the backwards (from my 5240) levers. Not sure I can get used to both kinds. May have to decide which way I like it and stay with that way. I do like the torque of the T-head. Seems to make all the power at a much lower rpm. The 8hp Kohler might be stronger, but only when it revs. I like that I can vary the speed with the throttle and still have plenty of power.

Thanks for the advice. All of you are very helpful.
 

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My L is a pull start. The 30 inch mower is a little light on the front, the factory made weights to add to it. I usually find a old tire to sit around the gearbox.

You will find the weight balance is important. If you are mowing your lawn with the 30 inch, being light helps you wip it around in turns without the skids digging too bad, and without having to push down on the handlebars.

Being heavier helps on hills and rough ground. When the attachment is heavier, you can actually push down on the handlebars for more traction, without the attachment coming off the ground. I can actually go up steeper hills with the heavier 40 inch mower because of the ability to press down on the handlebars for traction.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I've added solenoids and starter switches to a few Ls I've worked on.

Example https://www.mytractorforum.com/1227918-post139.html

In my experience the ickiest part is finding a way to mount the solenoid so it doesn't get dinged.
I read that 16 pages, nice job on the restore. I hope your troubles go easy on you. Where did you end up mounting the solenoid? I must have missed it in that thread.

Thanks again.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
My L is a pull start. The 30 inch mower is a little light on the front, the factory made weights to add to it. I usually find a old tire to sit around the gearbox.

You will find the weight balance is important. If you are mowing your lawn with the 30 inch, being light helps you wip it around in turns without the skids digging too bad, and without having to push down on the handlebars.

Being heavier helps on hills and rough ground. When the attachment is heavier, you can actually push down on the handlebars for more traction, without the attachment coming off the ground. I can actually go up steeper hills with the heavier 40 inch mower because of the ability to press down on the handlebars for traction.
I should be able to make a nice lead weight and some kind of bracket arrangement. When I do, I will post a new thread. Thanks for the insight.
 

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Where did you end up mounting the solenoid? I must have missed it in that thread.
I think I didn't include that detail. My practice when doing that mod to an L model has been to hang the solenoid on the front (away from operator) side of the starter mount. In place of the foot switch.

That's not an ideal location. I've had one machine where I dinged up the solenoid by dragging the tail through a bunch of gravel. I think the next time I do one of those I'll make up some kind of a bracket to mount the solenoid on the right handlebar, down near the mag. That will mean I need to use different battery cables.

I've been too busy with other projects the last couple years to do more than maintenance on the gravely fleet. The main project at present is to build a new workshop. Once I get that done, the gravely work will pick up again.
 

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I should be able to make a nice lead weight and some kind of bracket arrangement. When I do, I will post a new thread. Thanks for the insight.
The original gravely deck weights do show up occasionally, but they're expensive:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/GRAVELY-30-M106-Deck-Weights-2-LI-C8-L8-500-5000-Pro-Series-Kohler-Models/273776896533?hash=item3fbe5fea15:g:NuYAAOSwZelcO4tr

I find an L model doesn't need weights on the deck, esp if you have a battery. I kind of like the well-balanced feeling of being able to push down the bars one-handed to float the deck over obstacles. But you should set up your machine the way you want.

Using a 106 deck on a kohler powered machine is a different story; you definitely want the weight there.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Where did you end up mounting the solenoid? I must have missed it in that thread.
In place of the foot switch.

That's not an ideal location. I've had one machine where I dinged up the solenoid by dragging the tail through a bunch of gravel. I think the next time I do one of those I'll make up some kind of a bracket to mount the solenoid on the right handlebar, down near the mag. That will mean I need to use different battery cables.

I've been too busy with other projects the last couple years to do more than maintenance on the gravely fleet. The main project at present is to build a new workshop. Once I get that done, the gravely work will pick up again.
I hear you on the shop, building a 41x66 shop as we speak. Taken me almost 2 years to build between other projects. Now I have a few gravelys which helps with other projects. Ugh! Told the wife, shop gets finished this year or I burn the honey-do list. She agrees.

I should be able to make a nice lead weight and some kind of bracket arrangement. When I do, I will post a new thread. Thanks for the insight.
The original gravely deck weights do show up occasionally, but they're expensive:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/GRAVELY-30-M106-Deck-Weights-2-LI-C8-L8-500-5000-Pro-Series-Kohler-Models/273776896533?hash=item3fbe5fea15:g:NuYAAOSwZelcO4tr

I find an L model doesn't need weights on the deck, esp if you have a battery. I kind of like the well-balanced feeling of being able to push down the bars one-handed to float the deck over obstacles. But you should set up your machine the way you want.

Using a 106 deck on a kohler powered machine is a different story; you definitely want the weight there.
I haven't put a battery in the L8 yet as I haven't gotten a solenoid, or its location sorted out yet. Without the battery it wants to do wheelies going up hills. Either I put a battery or make it a pull start. Kind of hate having to maintain batteries. We'll see.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I hear you on the shop, building a 41x66 shop as we speak.
Oooooh, I'm jealous. Mine's only 30x60 <img src="http://www.mytractorforum.com/images/smilies/smile.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Smile" class="inlineimg" />
Don't be jealous, yours will probably be done before mine. I should have hired the whole thing out. But I saved about 50% by doing it myself. Will be really nice when done. Then I am going to need a trencher attachment to run the power to it. Just trying to keep it gravely related. Will also be nice putting up a year's worth of hay all at once. Got to go move goat fencing. Maybe I will get to work on the '48 today.
 

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I hear you on the shop, building a 41x66 shop as we speak.
Oooooh, I'm jealous. Mine's only 30x60 <img src="http://www.mytractorforum.com/images/smilies/smile.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Smile" class="inlineimg" />
What part of MA are you in. I am originally from Somerset, and did field service all over the state. You don't have to post it, I understand?
 

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What part of MA are you in. I am originally from Somerset, and did field service all over the state. You don't have to post it, I understand?
I'm in beautiful downtown Stow. No ski slopes, but lots of golf courses and apple orchards. Only a few goats :)
 

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What part of MA are you in. I am originally from Somerset, and did field service all over the state. You don't have to post it, I understand?
I'm in beautiful downtown Stow. No ski slopes, but lots of golf courses and apple orchards. Only a few goats <img src="http://www.mytractorforum.com/images/smilies/smile.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Smile" class="inlineimg" />
Nice area up 117. Very rural. Reminds me of where we are now, minus all the snow. I don't miss the snow at all. Left my snow removal equipment with the house when we sold it. None of it were gravelys. Now when it snows, we take a picture quickly before it's gone.

That and a 7 month growing season. Thanks for all the help.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I find an L model doesn't need weights on the deck, esp if you have a battery. I kind of like the well-balanced feeling of being able to push down the bars one-handed to float the deck over obstacles. But you should set up your machine the way you want.

Using a 106 deck on a kohler powered machine is a different story; you definitely want the weight there.
Put a battery in the L8, while it improved, it still seems a bit light and wants to wheely going up hill. I live in a pretty hilly area, so will add some weight to make it balance the way I like it. On flat ground it is perfect, but not much of that around here.
 

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Do you have dual wheels? That and AG tread tires makes for a unbeatable hill machine. I have tried to turn mine over several times and it won't do it, it just slides down the hill.

You will also find after using it awhile, that you need to go with the flow and not try to fight it too much. It will wear you out if you try to control it too much. If you have a steep hill and want to mow it sideways, just start at one corner and gently keep it going sideways, but if it wants to go diagonal and slide down the hill, let it, and modify your mowing pattern to suit. A lot less work that way. There is a learning curve to it.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Do you have dual wheels? That and AG tread tires makes for a unbeatable hill machine. I have tried to turn mine over several times and it won't do it, it just slides down the hill.

You will also find after using it awhile, that you need to go with the flow and not try to fight it too much. It will wear you out if you try to control it too much. If you have a steep hill and want to mow it sideways, just start at one corner and gently keep it going sideways, but if it wants to go diagonal and slide down the hill, let it, and modify your mowing pattern to suit. A lot less work that way. There is a learning curve to it.
No dual wheel at least for now. I really just go up or down the hills to get to where I want to mow brush. When I go up the hill the front end wants to lift up and I have to lift up on the handles to keep it down. Even with a battery it does this, just not as badly. I will sort it out. I have much lead and can make a mold in any shape I want, so it won't be a problem. How does dual wheel help for traction going up hills? Would they be worth having for general use. It does have AG tread tires now.

I tried to fight it at first, now i let it go and just persuade it. Was clearing along a fence line today and had a great time. Cleaned under a couple of hickory trees to make it easier to harvest nuts. I am really enjoying these tractors. Nice to be able to use a scalpel instead of an axe. Tractors can only get you so much precision.

Thanks for the tips.
 

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Dual wheels changes it's personality dramatically, and makes it a real working tractor. More traction, more weight, and a wider stance. Dual wheels are worth every penny it takes to convert it.
 
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