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Newbie here...

The manual says I need to remove the deck to sharpen the blades...cant I just jack the thing up, secure it with stands, and creeper underneath to remove the blades?

Also, what method is recommended? I dont know how hard the steel is...will a standard metal file be enough, or should I break out the Dremel?

And my neighbor says if I dont have any large dings that require removing a good bit of metal, as long as I keep in mind to remove about the same from each side, I dont need to worry about balancing.

Thoughts...comments?

Thanks!

-Chris
 

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I grind my blade edges to a sharp point with a 5 inch hand grinder.
I might be in the minority here, but I don't care.
I take off my deck every week, after every mowing, so it is no big deal for me to sharpen the blades.

cant I just jack the thing up, secure it with stands, and creeper underneath to remove the blades?
If that is what works for you, go for it:trink39:
On the balancing thing, stick a screw driver(round of cource) in the mounting hole and see what end of the blade is heavier.
If the blade stays level, you are ok.
 

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Well I'm assuming you are talking lawn mower here,you got to take the blades off to sharpen them[least I always do],you might be able to take blades off without removing deck,don't know,one lawnmower I can one I got to take deck off.
I sharpen on a bench type grinder,but a drimmel would work,a file would work,a hand grinder would work.

Balancing ain't a big deal,should be plenty of info on here as to how people does it,I just take a small rod,stick it in hole and hold it out to see if one end is heavier than other,than you grind a little on heavy side and recheck,but you buddys right,it probably won't be out of balance if you sharpen it even on both ends.
 

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Many use car ramps, and drive their mower up on there, and then access the blades from under the tractor.

I have always removed my deck to remove the blades to sharpen them on my John Deere 300. Call me lazy...but I am considering ramps. Just getting tired of removing the deck every so often and jacking with the mule drive.

I use a 5" electric grinder myself. Makes quick work of all thee blades. I remove some off each side, in the same number of passes. I used to check and make sure they are balanced when I get done, they usually are, or very close and don't require any touch ups to even them out, so now I just sharpen and reinstall, I don't check them any more.

~F~
 

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Opinions are like belly buttons... everyone has one. Only diff, opinions are widely varied, belly buttons are either innie or outie.

I have ramps I can drive my front wheels up on to get to the underside of the deck for cleaning. I also sometimes hoist the front end up with a comealong. As for sharpening, I only do it once a year and I take the deck off to do it. I also give it a thorough inspection at the time.

If you're going to balance the blade, may as well take the time to do it right or don't bother doing it at all. Sticking a round object in the hole is a waste of time. You either need to use a cone balancer or balance it on a fulcrum and sight it over the hole.
 

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While we are on the topic, had anyone put together a jig of some sort to hold the blade at the right angle when using a hand grinder? I have sharpened them on a bench grinder, used a hand grinder, and used a file. File seems to do a better job but takes longer. Still have a problem holding them properly to get a good, smooth edge.

Thoughts?
 

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Sticking a round object in the hole is a waste of time. You either need to use a cone balancer or balance it on a fulcrum and sight it over the hole.
I'm sure glade you also said this.
Opinions are like belly buttons... everyone has one. Only diff, opinions are widely varied, belly buttons are either innie or outie.
Brad, do you have a bench vice to hold them in?
 

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I raise the front of mine with a chain hoist to get to the blades. I'm sure I could also do it with a floor jack, but be careful it doesn't slip off somehow.

You can sharpen it with a file or Dremel, but it will be slow. It only takes a few seconds with a hand grinder. I sharpen it on the top side and then rev the ginder up and while it is idling down bump the burr off the bottom.

I balance it on a butcher knife blade centered on the hole.


But, there are many ways to skin a cat.
 

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There is no need to remove the deck to sharpen the blades. I just use my floor jack with a short piece of 4x4 between the jack and front bumper. Since I have a aircompressor I use an air ratchet to loosen the blades and a die grider to sharpen them.

If the blades are a little difficult to get to break loose they make a clamp to hold them in place. I like the die grinder because it's quick, no vise need just hold with free hand,and they it does a great job without removing too much steel.

http://www.tractorsupply.com/outdoo...mmc=affiliates-_-froogle-_-datafeed-_-4422149

http://www.tractorsupply.com/tools/...ell-hausfeld-1-frasl-4-in-die-grinder-3301560
 

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I change implements alot. I only have one tractor and it has to do it all. So, the MMM comes off and the skid plate goes on alot. Having said that, I picked my MMM deck up with the FEL and laid it up sideways against my pickup tailgate. Used a dremel to knock off the dings, then a file to finish it off. I didnt remove the blades for balancing check but it was only my first sharpening. I'll prolly get a little pickier next time I sharpen them.
 

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Sticking a round object in the hole is a waste of time.
Another agreement from here. There's just too much friction to get a true balance... and I'm not that good at sighting over a bore hole onto a knife edge with trifocals... so this cheap-o SOB sprung for one of these plastic balancers... 12 years ago. It's still accurate after plenty of use. It's quick and far better than the "by guess and by gosh" in-the-hole method.

They used to make decent metal ones of this same design but I guess the plastic ones are just as good since they're now made in China where all of our precision stuff is coming from.:D
 

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I have a 4.5" hand grinder that I use.. BUT I use a flap disk because I was afraid of overheating the metal or taking too much off with a regular wheel... So far it has worked well

b
 

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I also use a DeWalt angle grinder and a flap disk to sharpen blades. I learned that trick from this forum a couple years ago. It's the quickest and best way to sharpen a blade that I've ever tried.
 

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yea, definitely use a cone balancer for the blades... a rounded object can give you a general idea, but when you are dealing with something that spins as fast as a mower blade, the friction between the two metals can be just enough to screw it up.... a cone balancer works well because the blade fits on top of the cone and then the cone moves on the point inside... there is almost no friction to screw with the reading of the balance.. With the rounded object, you are sliding a metal object around inside of a metal hole, so any imperfection on the rounded object or around the blade hole can screw you up....
 

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I dont sharpen blades, i just replace them every season! Thats how i roll...
 

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Paying $30.00 a year on blades is cheap to me considering all the stuff needed to sharpen them!
 

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Paying $30.00 a year on blades is cheap to me considering all the stuff needed to sharpen them!
Wish I had your bank account!:sidelaugh All you REALLY NEED is a good hand file, a cheap-o C-clamp to hold a blade down on a sturdy surface.(Readily available at minimal $'s at local hardware stores.) The rest is inexpensive elbow grease and common sense.:) The satisfaction of "D-I-Y" is worth 10X as much.:trink39:
 
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