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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Jari part 102530 is still available in smooth or serrated.
The knife size is 2".
The length is 2-7/8.
The rivet hole spacing is 1-3/8.
'
I believe these will fit the Sears, I thought maybe wait 'till Spring to get the smooth knives as they are available then, but the serrated should do nicely. Any thoughts or suggestions on the rebuild would be greatly appreciated.

I will try to track down a decent rivet tool. The prior owner must of owned a welder as the sickle section is welded to the pivot arm bracket in one spot...
I should get pictures going then. Jari also makes a 44 inch bar section already with knives riveted, I want to see if they can be modified to work on the other sickles. Although the 44 Jari is a center powered bar, maybe there is a simularity? Any one else use these parts of late?
 

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FWIW, don't know anything specific about the Sears cutter bar. That being said have replaced lots of knives on regular, full sized (7') sickle bars on farm tractors. Get a cold chisel and cut off the top of the rivet, then punch out the remainder with a punch. Put the new knife on with rivets inserted. Place on an anvil, section of railroad rail or similar and using a ball peen hammer "peen" the portion of the rivet that's projecting into a rounded mass. The knife should be tight. That's it.

Again, speaking of farm tractors, the serrated knife sections are preferred as they don't require as much sharpening. To sharpen a smooth knife you'll need a special grindstone tapered on both sides which I personally haven't seen in a lot of years...:)

Just my two cents.

Good luck,

Ev
 

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Oh, forgot to mention ledger plates. Just pop out the old one with a broad bladed screwdriver, Put in the new one and "set" it with a 3/8-1/2" punch.

Cjet, really neat tools. We did it as I said for over 50 years starting with the blades on horse drawn mowers and then tractor mount units. I recently replaced three sections (blades) and one ledger plate.

Again, know nothing about Sears sickle bars.

Good luck,

Ev
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I hope this is a mistake! Home sickle services said they were out of this size a week ago and gave me a wierd phone number to another place that did not pick up the phone!
I doubt that a whole box of 25 is forsale at that price or I got beat very badly today on e-bay! I bought 20 at 4.30 a piece....
Nice tools in the video! I could have my stuff done quickly with all those great tools. Excellent advice I will be better prepared to do the job correctly!
 

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I got mine and the rivet tool from sickle service. He made me a new bar once but then said he couldn't make a second. I got a local guy to make my last. The new one was just a tad thicker and I haven't had a problem since. Not sure why I kept breaking them.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I bid on those! I just lost the auction by a dollar! Jari has had a price increase since my last purchase! The 102530 sections are 5.95 a piece now...
 

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Re: Sears Sickle bar Section Replacement

I just put $170 worth of serrated knife sections and rivets on my Sears sickle bar. When you order from Jari, don't forget to order rivets. Also, you'll need longer rivets for the first 2 or 3 knife sections for the bracket the pitman arm attach's to.

Here's a crude illustration of how to remove sections. Just place the cutter bar on something solid with a sharp edge and hit the back of the section with a hammer to shear the rivets.




Make sure when peening the new rivets, you keep the knife sections tight to the bar. If there is a gap, you'll have to redo it.

The tools would surely make the job easier, but this is fairly easy and you save the cost of the tools.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Nice tractor collection! How do you keep them all going or are they repaired for other people?
The manual has the rivets being 7/32x3/4 (3), Now that is the section I was leaving on.
Did you replace the first section attatched to the head & pin? Where would even find a knife section like that?
The next two knives use 5/32x13/16(5), Then there is the bulk of it finishing with 5/32x9/16(35).
I ordered a rivet tool which I wanted to press the rivets and have them all even and uniform. It's not cheap to replace the knifes but I bet it cuts alot better! Do you put the rivets in from the bottom or down through the top?You have any size problems with the rock guides fitting the knifes?
I don't know if I can get the huge hole in the head bracket and pin possibly welded shut, and redrilled? The odds of finding another head bracket & pin are about a million to one! Thanks for the diagram and other helpful information..
 

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Re: Sears Sickle bar Section Replacement

Nice tractor collection! How do you keep them all going or are they repaired for other people?
The manual has the rivets being 7/32x3/4 (3), Now that is the section I was leaving on.
Did you replace the first section attatched to the head & pin? Where would even find a knife section like that?
The next two knives use 5/32x13/16(5), Then there is the bulk of it finishing with 5/32x9/16(35).
I ordered a rivet tool which I wanted to press the rivets and have them all even and uniform. It's not cheap to replace the knifes but I bet it cuts alot better! Do you put the rivets in from the bottom or down through the top?You have any size problems with the rock guides fitting the knifes?
I don't know if I can get the huge hole in the head bracket and pin possibly welded shut, and redrilled? The odds of finding another head bracket & pin are about a million to one! Thanks for the diagram and other helpful information..
They are all mine. All run(that are pictured), except the 104 cub. It runs, but the clutch needs rebuilt.

I just used regular sections the whole way out the bar, that's what was on it. I don't have the longer rivets, so the first sections still need to be replaced. I found the first section from tractor mechanic that bough out the local hardware store when it closed, it was the only section they had and happened to be that one. It does cut MUCH better now, but then again. No problems with clearance anywhere.

I don't see why you couldn't weld and re drill.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I took the whole knifehead assembly off the sickle, its rough! Can I make a new knife back out of regular steel? I mean just measure it out unto a piece of stock and just drilling the hole? Or does this have to be spring steel or something?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Here is the new sickle section.
There were five rivets that had to be done by hammer and rivet set punch, around the pivot pin bracket.
The rest were just torquing the crap out of the sickle press!
I found a new one through Agri Supply for around 45.00 It arrived John Deere green!
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Now that's alot of tractors! I have not put the section back in the sickle yet. I am debating on doing some painting of the rock guards...Thanks for the pictures.
 

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My knife holder bar broke and I had a local shop make me a new one out of 1/4" steel, and it is holding up great. My original bar seemed to be just a tad thinner.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Thanks. The welded section was strange, I had to use different style rivets. A countersink was dilled into the welded area and I used a tapered rivet. That let me retain the weld and replace the knives. I would like to just replace the back section of steel but it is so hard to find any steel period!
 
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