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Discussion Starter #1
1975 ST12 with Sears 3 pt. hitch.

The threads on the center link and right lift link are rusted tight.

I've soaked them in WD-40 for days and used all my strength to try to loosen them but to no avail.

I could get a new center link at a tractor supply but not sure about the adjustable lift link.

Anybody have any secrets for getting these loose?

Was hoping to keep this as original as possible.

Thank You,

Rod
Oriental, NC
 

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Retired Super Moderator - Deceased September 2015
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PB Blaster is better than WD40 at loosening parts. Heat/lightly used can also help, but I would try the PB first. May have to soak them longer than a day or 2. :trink40:
 

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Did you try some heat.I had to on some of the plow parts,just used plumbers torch and oil
 

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That there's worth fixin'
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It will unscrew apart easily if the outside of the siezed part is heated up to nearly red. Need to find someone with an Oxy Acetelyne torch.
 

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PB Blaster is better than WD40 at loosening parts. Heat/lightly used can also help, but I would try the PB first. May have to soak them longer than a day or 2. :trink40:
I like PB Blaster penetrating solvent also. It's always worked well for me.
 

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It can be a challenge.

I think that heat is probably your best choice.

Part of the problem is that Iron oxide (rust) expands. It takes up more space than the original steel did, so over time it "jams" the thread.

The heat helps to over come this by causing the metal to expand (and the inside diameter of the clevis to open slightly). It will require more heat than mom's hair dryer to expand the steel. I agree that oxy-acetelyene is the best bet if you have access. If you don't, a plumber's torch with mapp gas is a second choice.

(A mini- oxy acetylene setup is sold at Home depot for about $60 if your want to go that route)

Good luck
 

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Heat it up a bit then pour a little water on it to cool quickly and it will loosen it up nicely.
 

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PB Blaster works wonders!!!! Soak it in PB for a day or two, then use heat.
 

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If u can get some weak acid you can use it to eat the rust, i think the process is called pickling...Where I work we use hydrocloric acid and ive used it to break apart some of my rusted stuff...paint aint to good after words but I didnt care about that!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Finally got both sections of the center link apart. I used a plumber's torch and the biggest pipe wrench I have. Cleaned up with wire brush, used plenty of penetrant and grease and it works perfectly.

I broke the adjustable lift link though :banghead3. The bottom portion of the threaded rod broke at the female link. Guess I'll look for one on eBay. I'll try to fab something in the meantime.

Thank You,

Rod,
Oriental, NC
 

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Take it off and put it on an anvil... Smack the barrow a few times.
Then put it in a vise and lock a pair of vise gripes on it.
Rock it back and forth a few hundred times.
You might not see it move but if it moves even only a few thousands of an inch it will increase its move with each rock. After a while you will have it turning.
This also works with rusted bolts. Sometimes I spend 30 min's rocking a bolt that needs to come out.
 

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Sorry I missed this thread until now. Here's the advice I would have given:

One of my favorites - the candle wax trick. Some of you have probably heard of this one before.
If you have a fastener that absolutely, positively must be removed intact, and you can apply some heat to it, this may save your bacon. First, heat the area with a propane torch - not to a red heat, only to 150-200 degrees or so. Then, take an ordinary candle and rub it over the exposed section of fastener, allowing the wax to melt and run around the threaded section. Allow the fastener to sit for a while, then work it back and forth and it should spin right out. If not, warm it up again and reapply the wax.
This has worked wonders for me in the past.
 

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Low timer on MTF,
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PB Blaster is good stuff, I do like the wax trick, and a 50/50 mix of ATF and acetone works pretty well, too.:praying:
 

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Those of you lacking torches that need to heat up smaller parts such as the turnbuckle on the hitch ,can use an electric or gas kitchen stove to heat the parts--as long as you can do it when the wife or mom isn't home!...

I used to have a "junk" propane kitchen stove outside of my garage ,that I picked up at the curb one day when someone was wanting it gone,so I too it home and hooked my gas grille 20 lb tank to it..eventually it was moved inside when I got tired of making coffee and soup outdoors,but I ended up giving it to another needy person,it took up too much space--I now use a coleman camping stove powered by propane...a gas grille can also be used to heat up smaller parts quite effectively!..
 

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After you get things like this apart apply a god anti seize to the treads.I use it on anything that comes in contact with heat or has a good change of getting rusted. the heat thing will just about work eveytime. I have ran into nozel tips at work that the last person did not lube the tip.I can a sure you that I did not take long to till them to.Even at a heat of 500 f they do not come of easy.
 

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Antiseize is a must!

For things that don't need to move, a good alternative is Loctite. Really. It will keep the moisture from getting between the threads and making rust. The blue stuff comes apart pretty easily or you can hit it with a propane torch and that will make the Loctite loosen up.

My old boss would ream any of us that didn't have a can of antiseize and use it, especially on the platen bolts on our molding presses.
 

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Cranky Motorsports
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I broke my center link last week- I had it on the hitch and when I had my triler full of wood, my tractor was pushing instead of steering and I wondered why- then I heard a crack, and looked back to see my center link in two pieces- I broke the 5/8 rod in half! Crap! now I have to make a new one- get some LH thread and some RH and weld them together. DOH!!!
 
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