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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have seen dimensions of the individual parts of the Sears 3-point, but I don't think I've seen anything that shows the relationship between the C/L of the attachment points other than the 12" spacing between the lower arms.

I am building a couple of drawbars to mount a trailer ball, and would like to place the top link hole in the proper relationship to the lower pins. I eyeballed the points on my moldboard plow and it looks like the center of the top hole is about 11" up and 4" forward of the center of the lower pins.

Could someone else eyeball their setup and see if I'm close?

Still need to come up with a top link... for this application, I think a solid nonadjustable link will work just fine as long as I get it in the ballpark. Not critical.
 

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I measured mine when I made my weight box and if I remember right you are very close...
 

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Deere 330 Killer
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I dont think you need to include the top link if you want to use a trailer ball.

Lots of drawbars are just a big thick bar of steel with a hole and a ball hitch. Hooking a trailer self-levels the bar.

James made one I think
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I was thinking of not using a top link, but if you consider that the center line of pull on the trailer ball is above the center line of the lower pins, it is going to want to rotate the drawbar back until the ball binds in the coupling, then if you pull hard enough it is going to try to twist the ball out, putting loads on the coupling it was not designed for. The top link will hold the drawbar parallel to the ground or nearly so like it is designed to be used.

Granted, the Sears probably can't generate enough pull to cause problems - I think - but I tend to overengineer things anyway.

A pin-style drawbar does OK with no top link because the center line of force is so close to the center line of the lower pins.

Good learning exercise if nothing else. I think I'll try to bend two pieces of 1/4" x 2" flat stock to make an A-frame, similar to the plans for the 3-point to sleeve hitch adapter I've seen. We'll see how well that works.
 

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Cranky Motorsports
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IMO you need the top link or the ball moves around too much
 

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Retired Super Moderator - Deceased September 2015
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Do build it like a SH Adaptor, but on one side have the SH and on the other side have a tongue welded on that you can put the hitch ball in or take the ball off and it is a pin hitch. That is how I have mine made.:fing32:
Vehicle Automotive exterior Bumper Auto part Soil
 

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I have seen dimensions of the individual parts of the Sears 3-point, but I don't think I've seen anything that shows the relationship between the C/L of the attachment points other than the 12" spacing between the lower arms.

I am building a couple of drawbars to mount a trailer ball, and would like to place the top link hole in the proper relationship to the lower pins. I eyeballed the points on my moldboard plow and it looks like the center of the top hole is about 11" up and 4" forward of the center of the lower pins.

Could someone else eyeball their setup and see if I'm close?

Still need to come up with a top link... for this application, I think a solid nonadjustable link will work just fine as long as I get it in the ballpark. Not critical.
One thing to take into consideration with the Sears 3 point hitch is the OEM top center link is adjustable. Adjustments can be made to achieve maximum performance under certain conditions for a given application. Why wouldn't you simply use the OEM top center link to work with the drawbars you intend to build?

:howdy::dunno::MTF_wel2::praying::thanku::drunkie:
 

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That there's worth fixin'
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One thing I've noticed is that the attachments do not all have the same geometry for their mounting points. The center hole in the "mast" as I call it can be a different distance from the drawbar pin holes depending on which attachment it is.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Here's a Cat 0 drawbar sold by TSC. It is like what Stripmine was telling you. I have a homemade drawbar somebody welded up out of a piece of hat channel.

http://www.tractorsupply.com/cross-drawbar-category-0-with-category-1-pins-0288967
OK, maybe I'm a little slow (pretty sure about that, really :) ), but I don't see Stripmine even posting in this thread and I don't think I've asked about the subject before, so am I missing something here?

The TSC drawbar is 20" long and has Cat 1 pins.

I already have two pieces of 1/2" x 2" bar stock cut to length with a 3/4"" hole bored in the middle for the ball to bolt through. I also have the 5/8" pins cut to length with a bevel turned on one end and a hole for the spring clip. Haven't welded them on yet - I may end up shortening the drawbars by 1/4" on either end to accommodate the thickness of the steel I'll use to make the A-frame. Haven't decided yet.

Now, why would they make the location of the top pin relative to the bottom pins different for different implements, I wonder?
I assume that, comparing two implements with different amounts of setback or rise, this would have a direct effect on the attitude of each implement as relating to being level as it is raised or lowered.
 

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OK, maybe I'm a little slow (pretty sure about that, really :) ), but I don't see Stripmine even posting in this thread and I don't think I've asked about the subject before, so am I missing something here?
Don't feel bad.. it's a new one to me too... Am I missing something???
 

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OK, maybe I'm a little slow (pretty sure about that, really :) ), but I don't see Stripmine even posting in this thread and I don't think I've asked about the subject before, so am I missing something here?

The TSC drawbar is 20" long and has Cat 1 pins.

I already have two pieces of 1/2" x 2" bar stock cut to length with a 3/4"" hole bored in the middle for the ball to bolt through. I also have the 5/8" pins cut to length with a bevel turned on one end and a hole for the spring clip. Haven't welded them on yet - I may end up shortening the drawbars by 1/4" on either end to accommodate the thickness of the steel I'll use to make the A-frame. Haven't decided yet.

Now, why would they make the location of the top pin relative to the bottom pins different for different implements, I wonder?
I assume that, comparing two implements with different amounts of setback or rise, this would have a direct effect on the attitude of each implement as relating to being level as it is raised or lowered.
Answer: Some are used in the up position and some are used in the down position. Attachments are used for different purposes. The lower lift arms allow an attachment to rotate up to 360 degrees without a center link. The center link holds an attachment in a specific position to maximize performance. Ground clearance and ground contact are taken into consideration.

A drawbar is used in the up position so you might try to figure the geometry based on the drawbar in the up position at 90 degrees. Then figure the length of the adjustable center link.

Why not simply purchase the receiver hitch on eBay?

:howdy::dunno::MTF_wel2::praying::thanku::drunkie::trink40::greendr::crybaby::trink39::thThumbsU:banghead3:sorry1::thSick::fing32:
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Why not simply purchase the receiver hitch on eBay?
Well, if I wanted one of those I would have built one.

Part of the whole idea of having a ball on the 3-point is so I can back up to one of my empty utility trailers or my tow dolly, lift the hitch, and move it around the yard without even getting off the tractor.

I suppose I could always do what the PO of my MTD 990 did and simply weld the drawbar to the lower arms. :banghead3
I had to remove the arms and cut the drawbar off with a bandsaw then mill of all of the bubblegum weld before welding on new pins.
 

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Well, if I wanted one of those I would have built one.

Part of the whole idea of having a ball on the 3-point is so I can back up to one of my empty utility trailers or my tow dolly, lift the hitch, and move it around the yard without even getting off the tractor.

I suppose I could always do what the PO of my MTD 990 did and simply weld the drawbar to the lower arms. :banghead3
I had to remove the arms and cut the drawbar off with a bandsaw then mill of all of the bubblegum weld before welding on new pins.
So, are you lazy, or just plain smart? I like the grab-it-and-go method. A lot of new tractor attachments are the quick-hitch type you simply drive up to and they hook up without having to leave the operators seat.
 
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