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Discussion Starter #1
Here are pics of the pump from my dinko 20hp fel. It's aa good pump, except for the seal leak. Sometihing got wrapped up on the shaft and arbingated that seal. I have no idea what brand the pump is, nor what pressure it puts out.
How do I cleanly remove the remains of that seal? It did have a spring coil that was exposed.
Also, suppose I get a new seal, how is it installed? It appears that it would pop in between the case flange and the bearing surface flange.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Got it cleaned out. Is the shaft seal on these just a typical press in? I don't want to try pealing it out only to destroy the casting...
 

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It's a press fit. It's primary purpose is to keep dust and dirt out of the pump. When worn to where they can't do the job, then fluid leaks past to tell you to replace them.
 

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Seals can be bought by size. Just take your pump to a bearing and seal store and have it sized up...
Something that is very handy and not costly for something like determining the size in both SAE and metric is one of these calipers from HF. You can get one for about 1/2 price with a coupon and if taken care of and stored in their case they will last long time. Mine is going on 10 years old.

I have one of HF's sliding calipers that I use most generally instead of my expensive ones. They use a button type hearing aid battery, buy a pack of bats from flea bay and store the replacement bats in the fridge. (they last longer when stored in the fridge. The digital readout on the caliper will start blinking if the bat is low, but it will still read correctly.

I've used mine for determining size of bearings and seals in both inches and metric then go on-line and find what is needed and not have to waste time and leg work going to a vendor, etc. Seems most bearings and seals are listed in metric sizes now days.:tango_face_plain:

https://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-digital-caliper-with-sae-and-metric-fractional-readings-63731.html
 

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Discussion Starter #8
It may not be evident in the pics because of the flash glare, but the seal face is ground away. I can mic the proper bore and shaft diameters, but my issue is to where the seal material is on the casting. There's not much there to grab, where/what ever it is.
 

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I have seen on leaking hyd. pumps that the shaft or bearing/bushing is worn causing the seal to leak, check your shaft. My two cents
 

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I've used mine for determining size of bearings and seals in both inches and metric then go on-line and find what is needed and not have to waste time and leg work going to a vendor, etc. Seems most bearings and seals are listed in metric sizes now days. :tango_face_plain:
Less than 5% of the world's population currently lives in a country that does not use the metric system as its official system of measurement. Liberia, Myanmar, and the USA are the only countries that officially use the English system of measurement.


It may not be evident in the pics because of the flash glare, but the seal face is ground away. I can mic the proper bore and shaft diameters, but my issue is to where the seal material is on the casting. There's not much there to grab, where/what ever it is.
Make a wedge out of a piece of welding rod to drive across the hole between the back side of the seal and the housing. Wedge it up in 3 or 4 places, then push a flat tipped screwdriver into the slot created. Tap the screwdriver from the back side of the face plate with a bolt and reposition the screwdriver several times in the process so as not to distort that seal case. When it is flush with the case, pry it out with the screwdriver from the face side, or better yet, pop it out from the back side using the screwdriver as a drift to catch the edge.

The face of the seal that you see is almost all rubber and too deep in the hole for wear to the face to to occur. The numbers, if present, will be stamped into the back side or circumference of the seal where it is up against the housing.

I have seen on leaking hyd. pumps that the shaft or bearing/bushing is worn causing the seal to leak, check your shaft. My two cents
You're right. The bearing is toast as indicated by the egg shaped wear of the seal. With the amount of shaft displacement indicated, there will be other parts of the pump that need refurbishment. Clearances are tight in a pump to ensure that there is only a small amount of fluid leakage from the pressure side. That much angular displacement of the shaft will cause the pump gear to rub the pump housing causing wear and increased clearances. Look for wear marks on the end plates. There are none, or only a burnished surface showing the full diameter of the gear, on a good pump.

Sleeve bearings have a (relatively) short life span when a component is driven by belts. The elongated wear in the seal points directly at the shaft that is driving the pump pulley.

Pumps with rolling element bearings in the front end have a much longer service life, but they come with a price tag to match.

This is why, when buying a sleeve bearing pump, you should look for a pump with a large diameter shaft to spread the load over a larger area. The original pumps for the GT loaders had a 7/16" diameter input shaft. Utility pumps with the same, or similar, displacement are available at reasonable cost with 5/8" diameter input shafts.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
It's all done. Something got between the coupler and seal and ground it all away. All that was left was the seal spring, some rubber remains and the steel seal wall. Could not access it from the backside. Sized a thick steel disc to fit inside the seal remains and tacked it four places. Was able to tap that out from the backside. It all came out very clean and neat. A new seal now sits in there. Sleeve bearings were in perfect shape. Thank you all for the help and guidance.
 
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