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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I made a little progress on the 1886-01 resurrection today.
I replaced the hydro pedal cross-shaft bushings (had to file the flange down a little, they were too thick).



I replaced the steering gear bushings and lower steering shaft bushing and reinstalled the steering gear using a new bolt. The old pivot bolt had major wear on the threads where the gear bushing rides on it. Wow, what a difference in how tight and smooth the steering feels now.

I took my drive shaft to a driveline shop in town this week and they quoted me $185 to build an all-new one or $75 to lengthen mine. Since they said all of my u-joints and yokes were good, I had them lengthen mine with a new tube.
I installed it today, and since the yoke set screws came with holes for safety-wiring them, I did. It fits great.




I set the tank and battery mount in place, and started figuring out the cable routing for starter/battery cables. I also wire wheeled and sanded the tank, and discovered a small pinhole leak at the seam on one side, where an external rubbing from the tractor it came off of (a 1476) had rubbed through the very outside of the seam lip. I cleaned out the hole, spread it a little to allow access, and used some two-part epoxy to force into the gap. I’ll see if it holds before I bother painting this tank.




I picked up some fuel line and a battery cable on the way back from dinner this evening, and hopefully I’ll get some fuel to it and start it up tomorrow. I really need to see that drive shaft spin, and check out the hydro to verify its operation before I go much further.
 

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Nice job.
 

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I really have to question if the drive shaft should be set screwed to the hydro shaft. There is no room for expansion when things get hot. When I see how far your shaft is onto the hydro shaft I just wish that mine was on that far. I may have to do a revamp. Anybody else know how far the driveshaft is supposed to slide onto the hydro shaft?
 

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I would question putting a set screw in a one piece drive shaft also. On my 1455 when I had a one piece shaft the torque from the engine would put too much pressure on the U-joints even with a slip fit at the hydro end and it kept breaking the bearing housings. When I had the 2 piece one made that shop advised me not to put a set screw in the hydro end because the input shaft gets hot and expands both in diameter and length and could damage the hydro unit.
Dave
 

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I think that a 2 piece drive shaft would be great for the ease of removing it. A 4 bolt flange could be made up and welded and balance for each half. Mine may just get such a modification. Without it its either pull the engine or roll the transaxel to the rear, with it, its just remove the seat pan.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The nice thing about my replacement engine is that I can drop the two rear bolts (easy to get to), loosen the front ones, and tilt the engine forward enough to get the yoke on the crank. Of course once the fuel tank, battery and all is on it, that may not be possible. I would hope that I don't need to remove the D/S again though, except when I disassemble it to paint in a few years.
 

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If you use one of the commercial fuel tank lining kits, like Eastwood sells, you should never have to worry about the leak, and it keep internal corrosion at bay as well.
 

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If you use one of the commercial fuel tank lining kits, like Eastwood sells, you should never have to worry about the leak, and it keep internal corrosion at bay as well.
Yes, I agree that a real tank coating would be better than the epoxy. I restore vintage motorcycle tanks and use the POR-15 tank coating. It's real good stuff. I don't think that the 2 part epoxy will hold up to years of gas and heat.
 

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Steevo,
I noticed that at the hydro end of your driveshaft is not turned down for a fan. Did that tractor have a fan on it when you got it?
On the subject of the 2 piece drive shafts, the shop that made mine used square shaft and a matching tube. They told me that is the same setup they use to build drive shafts to run the hydraulic pumps on dump trucks. They used the yokes from my old shaft. It now has new bearings and crosses in it. I have plowed with it and have not had any problems at all. it was balanced at 3400 rpm when they were done building it.
Dave
 

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Steevo,your making great progress.Keep the pics coming.:bananapow
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Steevo,
I noticed that at the hydro end of your driveshaft is not turned down for a fan. Did that tractor have a fan on it when you got it?

Dave
The fan was missing when I got the tractor. If I ever find a fan for one of these, I'll look into how to put it on the rear yoke.
 

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Nice job on the restore.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Nice job on the restore.
Thanks Ed, but I am being careful not to call this a restore, since I am not making it cosmetically new. I am just replacing everything that is worn, and repairing anything broken.
 
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