If the drive control foot pedal is adjusted properly, it will stop dead if you lift your foot off the pedal. The springs will return the swash plate to the neutral position at that instant. The same thing happens when you stomp on the brake pedal. Brakes on hydro equipped tractors are for turning (indidvidual rear wheel brakes with pedals to match) and for parking (usually a single disc brake on the rear end, if it doesn't have turning brakes). Stopping the tractor is the hydro's job and is accomplished when the swash plate is in the neutral position.
All pressure lines for drive control are internal to the hydro casing. Any external lines are either oil supply for the hydro (low pressure suction line) or a separate circuit for implement lifts which runs off the hydro's charge pump. Pressure comes when the system does "work", not when it's running and has no load.
DO NOT MESS WITH HYDRAULICS unless you have a basic understanding of what is involved. If it's working correctly, leave it alone!!! Improper modifications get very expensive, very quickly. The manufacturer spent a lot of money paying experts in the field of hydraulics to design a setup that works very well, and the government has mandated several safety devices to be included on lawn and garden tractors to prevent injury to those who are operating these units. eg. Seat safety switches which will shut off the engine if your posterior even high sides the seat when attempting to mow the grass on the side slope of a ditch. No engine, no hydro.
Here is a primer for hydraulics.
http://www.edgeroamer.com/sweethaven/mechanics/hydraulics01/
Here are a couple of animations of basically what goes on in a hydro.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2mh902AP7Yw&feature=BFa&list=FL6KTtzLgSGlsmxKZ59dObfQ&lf=mh_lolz
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WzaNAj11G30&feature=related
All pressure lines for drive control are internal to the hydro casing. Any external lines are either oil supply for the hydro (low pressure suction line) or a separate circuit for implement lifts which runs off the hydro's charge pump. Pressure comes when the system does "work", not when it's running and has no load.
DO NOT MESS WITH HYDRAULICS unless you have a basic understanding of what is involved. If it's working correctly, leave it alone!!! Improper modifications get very expensive, very quickly. The manufacturer spent a lot of money paying experts in the field of hydraulics to design a setup that works very well, and the government has mandated several safety devices to be included on lawn and garden tractors to prevent injury to those who are operating these units. eg. Seat safety switches which will shut off the engine if your posterior even high sides the seat when attempting to mow the grass on the side slope of a ditch. No engine, no hydro.
Here is a primer for hydraulics.
http://www.edgeroamer.com/sweethaven/mechanics/hydraulics01/
Here are a couple of animations of basically what goes on in a hydro.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2mh902AP7Yw&feature=BFa&list=FL6KTtzLgSGlsmxKZ59dObfQ&lf=mh_lolz
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WzaNAj11G30&feature=related