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Discussion Starter #1
So the Black Frame has been sold. The only request was that I repair the broken exhaust prior to payment in full and delivery. Workenmen is the man and hooked me up with an exhaust pipe as the old one was beyond repair. Hopefully he will chime in with whatever trick he used to get the donor part free. So I have the new pipe and just need to remove the old bolt flange from the tractor.
So far I have been using heat (both from a torch and warming the tractor), cold (by spraying cool water to contract the bolt), penetrating oil (a 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF), hammer (gentle taps onto a screwdriver on the flange to rattle things loose), and a little torque (my 18v inpact gun a little back and forth in both directions).
So I think I have all the usual bases covered with the above. I was hoping someone might have some odd ball suggestions or worst case solutions to lend. I am going to continue treating and soaking for a few days, but want to be ready for worst case scenario if it comes to that.
Thanks guys.
 

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If you have anything to get a hold of with vise-grips then snap them on real tight.
Rock them back and forth over and over. The stud could be moveing just a few 10 thousands of an inch. The movement will grow.
It might take a long time but most of the time a rusty bolt will give up doing this...
 

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Is it actually a bolt or is it a stud with a nut on it? If the latter you can split the nut and then clean up the threads on the stud. If it is a bolt, and why do people use bolts in those kinds of places, then like Kevin says, just keep soaking and rocking it back and forth. Don't get in a hurry and it will eventually come out.

Mike
 

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:praying: :praying: :praying: :praying: :praying: :praying: :praying: :praying:..........John........:praying:
 

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Don use vise grips if you can use a stud remover tool.

Youre more likelly to snap the stud as you have to hold it a distance from the block. To not mark the engine, A proper remover will hold the stud right tight to the block.
Use this:


Good Luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I will grab a photo this afternoon. It is a Hex cap bolt. Takes a 1/4 inch alen key. I like the vice grip idea as a last resort. I am trying to avoid removing the engines tins if possible. For now I will keep heating, cooling and using penetrating oil.
 

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If it is all there, I would mig weld a bolt to it and remove it while hot from welding.
 

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I have very good results using PB Blaster and letting it soak for a couple days. Applying heat and letting it cool several times. Tap the head of the allen bolt several times during this process. Then use a hand held impact tool with a Torqs bit that is slightly larger than the allen hole so that it grips when you strike the impact with a hammer. Light taps in the reverse mode, increasing the force until it moves. Then work it back/forth until it comes out .... Don't rush the process. Take your time and get it moving ..... JMHO ....

:fing32:
 

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Don use vise grips if you can use a stud remover tool.

Youre more likelly to snap the stud as you have to hold it a distance from the block. To not mark the engine, A proper remover will hold the stud right tight to the block.
Use this:


Good Luck.
You cant rock a stud with that...
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I have very good results using PB Blaster and letting it soak for a couple days. Applying heat and letting it cool several times. Tap the head of the allen bolt several times during this process. Then use a hand held impact tool with a Torqs bit that is slightly larger than the allen hole so that it grips when you strike the impact with a hammer. Light taps in the reverse mode, increasing the force until it moves. Then work it back/forth until it comes out .... Don't rush the process. Take your time and get it moving ..... JMHO ....

:fing32:
I am still in the process of heating, cooling and soaking. RetMyCase, do you mean you use a torx bit and tap it into the hex cap smooshing it into the angles of the hex? I like that idea a lot and will give it a shot once I am done pre treating things.
I also like the idea of welding a nut on. I will try that if the torx doesnt work. But again all in due time.
 

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Are you heating with a propane torch or an oxy/acetylene set? If you get the female thread portion heated red hot you should be able to back out the bolt. If this doesn't work or you are working with propane and/or can't get it that hot try heating and melting candle wax on the bolt to wick into the threads and then try it. Hope you get your problem solved.
 

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I would normally find a grade 8 or harder bolt that fits in the hex and weld it in. then remove while it's still hot. I never had any luck filling a bolt and nut with weld.

good luck
armstrong
 

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I am still in the process of heating, cooling and soaking. RetMyCase, do you mean you use a torx bit and tap it into the hex cap smooshing it into the angles of the hex? I like that idea a lot and will give it a shot once I am done pre treating things.
I also like the idea of welding a nut on. I will try that if the torx doesnt work. But again all in due time.
Yes, it usually works for me .......:trink40:
 

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jb
if you have the Allen head cap screw left.
try this ( i just did it two weeks ago onan NHC)
heat the block as close to the bolt as poss.
then with a small taper punch, hit the inside of the
allen head bolt, (hard, you will not damage the allen head part of the bolt)

then start the rock and roll process on the bolt.
mine took almost an hour, BUT it was removed with no damage to the block.
good luck. boomer (the used onan engine parts guy)
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Another round of heating/lube.
I think the hex cap might be too small weld a bolt into, but I will try if the nut doesn't work. Hopefully I won't need to resort to either of these.
For heat I am using MAP gas. I have not tried oxy/acetaline yet. I am worried that might be too much heat right on the engine. These ar the two bolts that hold the flange of the exhaust into the engine.
 

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Heat is your friend, repeated cycling of heating/ cooling should help with your patient approach :)

Me, I'd be using the torchset , but gently. Mapp just isn't hot enough sometimes.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I just noticed the threads on the inside last night. I guess if all else fails I could screw on an adapter and cut the old pipe to fit. For now I am going to continue the prep work. I am going to grab a bigger torx tomorrow morning and try to remove it then.
A buddy of mine is in town for the holiday and just stopped by to say hi. He had an additional suggestion I might combine with the torx bit. He said to try and place a washer or nut around the cap before tapping the torx into it. This way the cap will be supported on the outside to prevent it from splitting. Thought that was a good suggestion and it couldn't hurt to try it.
 

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Most of the time when I am working on something, it needs to be fixed now. The method below has worked every time for me. Most of the mechanics I know use this method also.

If it was a regular bolt head I would heat the head almost to the melting point with an acetylene torch, and then spin it out with an impact gun. Heating the head so hot is what gets the heat down to the end of the bolt. Fooling around with the cold methods being discussed here is how I usually end up snapping the bolt off below the surface. :banghead3

Since it isn't a regular head I would get a nut large enough to fit over the bolt head and weld it with the welder set fairly hot. By the time you have the nut filled up with weld, you will have heated the bolt red hot all the way down to the end which will break loose all the rust. Let it cool about 20 - 30 seconds and then use an impact gun, (not a hand wrench) to take it out. On small diameter bolts, turn the air pressure back some so the impacts aren't hitting it like a sledge hammer.

If you melt the nut into a blob, you have the welder set a little too hot, but that isn't a problem if you have your socket and a hammer beside you while you are welding. As soon as you quit welding, grab the hammer and drive the socket onto the nut. Let it cool a few seconds and put the impact gun on it.

Having the head there to weld the nut onto makes this method a piece of cake. I have snapped 1/4" bolts off below the surface and welded nuts onto them and got them out. It usually takes me a few tries when I am having to weld that deep into that small of a space. One time it took me 11 tries, but I still had it out in less than 15 minutes.

The bolt in the picture 2 posts up could be removed fairly easily using this method.
 
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