Run problem with a Tecumseh

Unfortunately, "putting a kit in the carb" doesn't mean the carb is completely clean inside. The way ethanol causes corrosion, carbs typically need mechanical cleaning, and sometimes even that won't work.

It's running too lean. You can adjust the mixture screw(s) to try to compensate, and if that doesn't help, and you've confirmed you don't have an air leak at the gasket between carb and engine, then the carb has to come apart completely and receive serious cleaning.....or replacement.

Thanks, austinado16 for your response. I did not mention that I had taken the carb apart and soaked it in parts dip. I was quit coroded and it had water stains in the float bowl. I think I will take it apart again and make sure all the passages are clear. The engin sounds very good and I think it will be a good mower once I get past this run problem. Thanks again for your help. PS I also have a wheelhorse tractor, but it is an older one that needs alot of work.


In His service
BTR

The ones I'm seeing are so bad that I have to clean out the jets using fine wire as an auger. Usually, stripping the paper/plastic off a grocery store bag tie gives wire that is the perfect diameter. In many locations, this wire can't even be passed initially, and then with some patience and finesse it'll eventually poke through the crud and open the oriface. I use spray carb cleaner and compressed air along with the wire, and keep going until all passages are flowing carb cleaner, and air pressure.

I know, some people might say, "Hey, you can't go poking carb orifaces with metal wire. You're basically drilling them out oversize and now the carb is ruined." Well guess what....the carb is already ruined. And the wire in the grocery store twist tie is soft and flexible enough that it's not doing any "damage."

I've saved a lot of carbs using this method. The trick is not to overlook any passage......and there are a bunch.....and to take the carb completely apart. This means removing not ony the main jet, but the jet tube that runs up the center of most carbs.

The carbs perform perfectly after this, as do the engines. To keep the problem from reocurring, I recommend SeaFoam in the fuel at all times.

Nice little view of a typical carb apart, with some cutaway views:
http://outdoorpowerinfo.com/repairs/tecumseh_carb_632107.asp

To clear it up a tad--your running way rich,not lean.It's starving for fuel,might want to clean carb.again.Hopefully you have removed main nozzel and ck'ed it as well.Not sure if you have a newer style carb.(air adjustment screw pre-set type)Pics.would be nice. Plus OHV eng.have a mean side--the valves have to be set perfect for best results.So ck that too.:trink40:

What I've seen with gas caps that have plugged vents is that the engine will run fine for say; 15min, and then dies and won't restart. If it's left to sit for a while, it restarts and runs normally, and then the process repeats.

Regarding the use of the choke, he's not running it way rich, he's just using the choke to take fuel from a different portion of the carb, and at the same time, cutting down on the amount of air. So overall, it's about the same fuel mixture...hence why the engine runs decent with the choke partially actuated.

austinado16 said:

Regarding the use of the choke, he's not running it way rich, he's just using the choke to take fuel from a different portion of the carb, and at the same time, cutting down on the amount of air. So overall, it's about the same fuel mixture...hence why the engine runs decent with the choke partially actuated.

Click to expand...

What ever your drinking---I want some.:trink40: Makes me dizzy reading your view.He said it would run with choke-hence the air mixture is blocked--somewhere,idle circuit,etc.So by choking you are cutting air intake, period.Carbs.only draw fuel from one location,main nozzel.Agree?

Thanks for the response's, I have not had a chance to take the carb apart again. The method of using the wire to clear the passages sounds like it might work. The carb was quite pluged from the water and old fuel. I had never thought about using the wire from a twist ty. The fuel cap is loose so it should not be that problem. I did have the carb completely dissambled and I blew out the passages with compressed air and blew the vitron seat clean out of the carb never to be seen again, thats why I decieded to put a kit in it. Someone else had said that the intake valve could be a problem, so after I clean the carb I may have to adjust the valves. Thanks again guys.


In His service
BTR