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Discussion Starter #1
Parts I have ordered for the S21BSN, and the 5242, both with estimated delivery dates of 7-31 are not here yet. I have been sort of sitting on my thumbs waiting for them. When they didn't show up today, I decided I was tired of sitting. I figured I would tear down one of the mowers I just bought, I opted for the 5006 Brick Top. There's some new things I had not seen before. Points, and a condenser. Now I just have to remember how it all goes back together. Before tearing it down, I did a spark test and compression test. It seems to have good spark, which surprised me as it seems the flywheel (at least at one time) was rubbing against the coil. The compression was a little over 60. Might have been enough to make it run, I don't know. I thought I would try to improve on it with new rings, and honing the cylinder. Luckily, when I tore it down, all the gaskets were in great shape. (On the 5242, the gaskets disintegrated, due to gasket sealer. That's what makes me think someone has been in that motor before.) I had already ordered and picked up new bearings for the 5242 from my local (35 miles away) bearing shop. Punched out the old upper plate bearing, went to put in a new one, WRONG BEARING! I'm glad I didn't try very hard, I probably would have broken the plate. The bearing is suppose to be 1 1/8 OD. These are 1 1/4. It just didn't feel right.
The rope recoil wasn't working very good, so I decided I would try to free it up. After I removed it from the upper plate, I found a curly Q looking spring thingy on my work table. Not sure where it came from, or where it goes, but I'll figure it out. I hope.Got out my PB Blaster, sprayed the recoil,, worked it back and forth, and WAHM! I thought a bomb went off. There was rope and spring everywhere. Scared the H... outta me. Got it all back together after cleaning it (and myself) all up, works much better now.
This motor does have a plastic carb. It cleaned up well, I hope it works well.
I have the deck completely stripped, and would like to have it media blasted, but it's $80 a pop. Kind of expensive. Guess I just have to decide if this mower is worth it.
The blade stabilizer (I think they call it a plate and collar assembly) was really stuck on. This is the 4th on I have had to cut off with a sawzall. But I refuse to hammer on the crank end trying to get one off.
Between wrong parts, and no parts, it has not been a very productive week. Hopefully Next week will be better.
 

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I dunno, sounds to me like you accomplished quite a bit, if only running the mower through the parts separator :)

Packages and even priority letters have been taking 9 to 15 days, and a client told me he just had a small package take 21 days! Anything coming from the Bay area, add ten days -- Oakland sorting center is apparently down, and it's all going to L.A. first where it sits for a week. Between the Recent Unpleasantness and the newly-homebound all shopping via Amazon, the whole system is overloaded.
 

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Sorry to hear about the problems. I think the bearing not being correct is my fault. In one of your other threads I gave a INA part number of SCH1412 as an alternate for the OEM part # 679277 bearing, but it's actually an alternate for bearing p/n# 678443 (The D-400 mag plates used from 1965 to 69). I'll get Bill to make the changes in the other thread so that others researching this don't end up ordering the wrong bearing for their D-600. Send me your address via pm and I'll buy and ship the OEM bearing p/n# 679277 to your house. It's the least I could do after my mistake cost you time, gas and money. For what it's worth the wrist-pin bearing should be the correct one for your D-600 connecting rod. I cross checked it and that is the correct bearing for connecting rod p/n #679156.
 

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Sometimes things just go a different route than you plan. No problem to just get back on track. I do have to ask about your removal of the plate and collar. In over 35 years I have only had to cut one collar off with a Dremel and that was after I pulled the plate off with a puller. The best way I have found to remove these is the 2 hammer method. With the deck on it's side and the blade removed lay a 5# hammer on it's side along the longest side of the plate. Then use a second regular hammer to strike the 5# hammer in the direction of rotation of the blade, effectively spinning the plate and collar off of the crankshaft. This is very similar to the method recommended by Lawnboy except for the 5# hammer. I find it easier to hit the 5# hammer with a second hammer rather than trying to strike the plate with a single hammer. Rarely I have had to use heat first on the collar or resort to heat and a puller. Mostly they come off easily using my method. Also goes without saying, but I will anyway, please use safety glasses if you are going to strike a hammer on another hammer. Bill
 

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Discussion Starter #5
When I plug in SCH 1412 into the bearing store web site, it comes up as a needle bearing, for 7/8 shaft, 1 1/8 diameter, and 3/4 thick. The original bearing is 1/2 inch thick, but I don't think that would hurt anything, as there is plenty of room for a 3/4 thick bearing. I think the bearing store simply ordered the wrong bearing, and of course I did not check it out, until I actually needed one.

I did try to spin one plate and collar assembly off, but iust didn't work. I then tried a puller, and all that did was bend the plate into a U shape. I still had to cut it off. I have seen too many motors with excessive end play in the crank. I don't know what caused it, but I am just not comfortable hammering on a crank at all.
 

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When I plug in SCH 1412 into the bearing store web site, it comes up as a needle bearing, for 7/8 shaft, 1 1/8 diameter, and 3/4 thick. The original bearing is 1/2 inch thick, but I don't think that would hurt anything, as there is plenty of room for a 3/4 thick bearing. I think the bearing store simply ordered the wrong bearing, and of course I did not check it out, until I actually needed one.
Okay that's good news! I'm glad the counterbore is the same size between the late 60s and 70s D series mag plates. I had forgotten about OMC going to shorter bearing set in the 70s until you posted about getting the wrong bearing set. It should be an upgrade installing the late 60s bearing in the mag plate of the later version. I had always liked the 60s engines better anyway due mainly to the extended snout crankcase, but yeah even the mag plate bearings were better in my opinion.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I have a problem. I took my coffee to the garage this morning trying to figure out my plan of attack. I had no gaskets for the 5242. No transmission for the S21BSN, and no bearings for the 5006. What to do? I looked over the bearings once again. I had ordered 4 of them. One of them had a different number the box. Hooray! I did have one correct bearing. I could reassemble the motor for the 5006 Bricktop. So I did. After honing the cylinder, and installing new rings I have compression of ~ 85 PSI. I am hoping it improves when the rings get seated in. Cleaned everything up, painted the deck, mounted the motor. The points and governor apparatus had me baffled for a bit (still does), But I git through it.
I think I am usually pretty good at figuring things out, and working through them, but this problem has me completely stumped. I installed a plug, hooked up a fuel line, and cranked it over. Nothing. Checked for fuel. Yep, got fuel to carb. Got my spark tester, yep got spark to plug. Hooked plug wire to plug, grounded the plug, NO spark. I have spark to the plug, but not through the plug. OK With 12 lawnboys around here, if there is anything I have got, it's plugs. Try another plug. Nope. Try the spark tester again. I have spark.I still have the plug that came in the mower, try that. Nope. Hook the spark tester to a plug, ground the plug, no spark. I don,t know if this is a ground to run coil or not. It doesn't seem to matter. Grounding the wire that goes to the on/off switch, makes no difference either way. With the spark tester, I have spark. With a plug, I have no spark. If someone told me they had this problem, I am not sure I would have believed them But here it is.

This is the first mower I have dealt with a mower that has points. I set them at .020. The points did not look perfect, but not terrible either.

Like I said, I am stumped. If anyone has an idea, I would sure like to hear it. Thanks
 

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Set the points at .017 and try again. Point gap affects engine timing. The longer the points are kept open the farther out the timing goes.
 

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hello there
the breaker points on a D-series engine are to be set at .020 not at .017 that point setting is not the
right one again set at .020 that the right one you want i have been working on lawn-boy mowers for
about 40 yrs and the grandson of a former lawn-boy dealer he showed me how to set points on
a lawn-boy mower hope this helps you out and also to say will share with you under the dust cover
there is item called spark advance it is spring loaded should have to remove it when you re assemble
it place back on the crank with small side of it on the key way side of crank also to say on the condenser
post place the non adjustment side of the breaker point arm on the condenser post first then the coil wire
then shut off wire and if you need any more help please pm me i can help you out with your 5006 and your
5242 and any other early lawn-boy mower you have not worked on any newer one from the 1990's and up
your new lawn-boy friend Scott
 

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Discussion Starter #10
WELL COLOR ME STUPID! After dinner i went out and put the mower back up on my work table. I decided to check the points again. Put it up on my work table, and tore it down and checked gap. On the upper plate it is embossed, "Set point gap at .020" It may have been a bit wide, but not by much. I checked to make sure none of the wires were grounded out anywhere, and they weren't. Then I saw a wire on the condenser move. I had failed to tighten up the nut on the condenser. The wires were all loose. AARRRGH ! I tightened the nut, set gap at .020 and put it back together. I set it on the floor, hooked up fuel line, blew into the primer hose and spun it with my drill. Fired right up, and ran like a sewing machine. A check with my stethoscope, and all seems well in the motor.

I still do not understand the governor though. On my 5242 there is a small spring that attaches to the governor lever. This mower has no spring that I can see. I guess it just floats.

I lied in an earlier post. I mention that after removing the recoil starter, a curly Q looking spring thingy fell out, and I didn't see where it came from. I said I would figure it out. Well, I haven't. Here is the part. I know it has something ot do with the starter,but I can't figure out where it came from, or how it was mounted. Anyone else Know? According to parts diagrams, the 7260 has the same part. I took the top off of the 7260, looked it over, and it does not have one. Makes me wonder if it's all that necessary. Any help would be appreciated.
2468246
 

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Oh that spring! That is the rope retainer. I just put one of those back in the IH Lawnboy I finished. That wire lays on the face of the starter cup with the curve over the round raised area on the cup and the 90 degree end on the right as you are looking at the front of the starter. The wire rests on the starter cup and the 90 degree end is what keeps the rope from jumping off the starter pulley.. They are tricky to get in. If anyone has an easy way to do this, please let us all know. As far as that other spring goes I am assuming that you are talking about the one that hooks on the back of the governor arm and hangs through the armature plate. The high/low lever rod goes through the loop on the end of the spring. When you turn the high/low lever the combination of the spring under the governor collar and the spring attached to the governor arm gives you 3200 RPM if the governor is set correctly. Single speed machines use a different color spring under the collar and no spring on the back of the governor arm. Bill

Read page 7-2 here.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
The 5006 Bricktop does not have a high / low lever, so there is nothing to hook a spring to, so I guess no spring. I will have to study more on that starter mechanism some more tomorrow. Thanks
 

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Yes correct. The 5006 is a single speed machine. Bill
 

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hello there again
as for what Bill has said the governor on a 5006 is a fixed speed and also how to fix the
starter the rope retainer you speak of does go on the front of the starter as you place the
starter back into place hold the rope retainer with the starter at same time while holding use other
hand to place starter retainer plate with the bolt and tighten up hope this helps you out and glad to
hear it now runs great like i said if you need more help please ask willing to help you out take care
your lawn-boy friend Scott
 
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