Rope gasket

I've seen rope gasket at the hardware store for wood burning stove door gaskets.....I think the new stuff has no asbestos (lets hope). The only issue is its much larger than the rope gasket found on LB mufflers but I suppose it can be trimmed down?

Good luck bud.

Indy452 said:

I've seen rope gasket at the hardware store for wood burning stove door gaskets.....I think the new stuff has no asbestos (lets hope). The only issue is its much larger than the rope gasket found on LB mufflers but I suppose it can be trimmed down?

Good luck bud.

Click to expand...

So far all I have found is 1/4 inch.
I'm thinking that's too large, will keep looking tho. If I find something, I'll post it.
And no, it does not contain asbestos, some have graphite.
Used on wood stoves and boilers.
Just found that 3/16 is made, now to find locally.
Thanks

I just use a woven cotton rope that I bought from the bulk spool at my local hardware store and cut it to length. I know that stuff is non asbestos (nothing is anymore) but I have never had a problem with them burning up and causing leaks around the flange. I think that once the rope gets a little spent oil residue on it thats what keeps them from burning up. Also I don't think the exhaust heat is as concentrated around the outer edges of the muffler where the rope gasket is. I cant remember the OD of the rope but I'm sure you can figure that out.

Don't know if this is new enough to not have the asbestos in it or not.

http://cgi.ebay.com/LAWNBOY-MUFFLER...246?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cb20f84ce

Funny thing is, for the longest time I didn't even know there was a gasket between the two halves......Most of mine are all black and hard looking I always assumed it was just carbon in the groove.

Makes me wonder how much the gasket really seals off. There is a lip that overhangs the edge.

That link ODF provided sure looks like the old asbestos gaskets of the past. Asbestos is a fine product as long as your not breathing in the fine particulate...

I don't usually change out the rope, but the blaster took it all out.
I found some cotton rope in the shop that will do until I find some rope gasket the right size.
I think the rope also acts as a cushion of sorts between the muffler and plate.
Ya, I'm not sure just how much it seals or if it even needs to be fire proof.
I'm also curious as to how a carb on a C 41, 42 engine functions with out a gasket between the air cleaner and the carb body.
How does the carb get air to mix with fuel ?
The air cleaner blocks the passage into the carb.
Or am I all wet here ?
Maybe none of the C engines get one.
I've not had much experience with the C engines.

I would think that it would need a gasket, you don't want unfiltered air going into the engine. 100% of the air entering the engine should go through the filter.

When I worked at the LB Dealer/Hardware store, we used to sell something called Oakum. Is that compatible?

This is the stuff I used. Got it from an old plumber buddy. I just unwound a few strands and jammed it in. I'm sure they don't make it anymore with asbestos but their web site shows a lot of different kinds with graphite. Probably get it in any good plumbing store. Comes in many diameters.

http://www.gtweed.com/85256e840043c800/vwContentByKey/W25YGKWM834KNWBEN

Murph,
I've heard of Oakum, but forgot about it.
Zeeker,
I have something similar to that, but it is not twisted, and is 1/4 inch, too big.
Thanks guys !

it'd probably work....oakum,
they packed hubs of cast iron pipe before they poured molten lead in there to seal a joint,
, worked for boat caulking for over hundred years.
pretty tough stuff

I'm thinking plain old rope will work just fine.
Thinking about it I come up with my own reason:
At the muffler plate right below the cylinder where it's the hottest is a piece of plain old rubber with a steel sleeve between the rubber and cylinder.
If this is good enough, then plain old rope should work just fine beyond that point.
Sometimes things are just '' over enginnered.''

I have a few dozen lengths of precut OEM gasket rope here. It's old. Likely Asbestos I guess. It's in pouches in the bottom of one of the boxes, a bit of a pain to check the size.

Murph,

You might have a tuff time with Oakum. Spent a few summers on the Monogehela River as a deck hand, used to use Oakum as an emergency patch for barges. Worked real well on large objects, but I don't know how well suited it'd be for smaller purposes. If I'm not mistaken, I think we used to fill the packing glands, on the driveshafts, with Oakum, as well. Again, I'd hate to try and use it for anything small or precise.

I there any high-heat caulks (red/orage) that is still somewhat flexible when cured? Could use this to fill the channel, then replace the muffler-cover once cured.

Might even find square rubber gasket material like what is used on my Neon's valve cover and spark plug tubes.

high temp rtv silicone, most any parts place or aisle has them.

2cycled fruitcake said:

high temp rtv silicone, most any parts place or aisle has them.

Click to expand...

:ditto::ditto::ditto:
That is what I used when I cleaned my brick top muffler.

Hey Guys,
I have just encountered the same as Bald-Guy, I too thought it was just carbon build up. but now the ropes stuffed.
so I was thinking what do you reckon about using a white cotton boot lace from some football/Rugby boots ?
it is the perfect fit but before I go ahead would like your opinion

A white or any colour bootlace (as long as it has no synthetic in it) is just fine.
It would be a good idea to impregnate it with graphite grease to allow it to take form, dry out and then harden a little. I Have been using bootlaces for many applications that call for packing and sealing.
Takes a little time winding large jobs but have had excellent results.
Don't forget to cut the :fing32:metal bit off the end (Ha Ha)