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roofing tips

3168 Views 23 Replies 14 Participants Last post by  Ironmower
I need to replace the asphalt shingles on my house and garage this summer. I have done some roofing before and remember one my least favorite parts was cutting the shingles to length when I got to the end of a row or in the valleys etc. Any suggestions or tips or tools that make this job quicker and easier than using a razor knife?

I have used the job as an excuse to buy a nail gun and stapler to make the job go easier. Hopefully if I can figure out some tool that will make the shingle cutting easier I can get this job started this week. I plan to "practice" on the garage that is my work shop since there are no ceilings in it to mess up with a leak and it is much smaller than the house.

Andy
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i worked roofing years ago. we used a razor knife with a hook on the tip.

don't forget to measure the roof, then pop your guide lines to help keep the runs straight.
Ja, the hooked tip is the key. It back-cuts from the top side and saves the blade from getting dulled by the stone.
Don't forget to turn the first course of shingles upside down for the starter course.


Dan
Yes, either that or like I did I bought a roll that you just lay down for the first course. I used the hook knife and it worked nicely.
i worked roofing years ago. we used a razor knife with a hook on the tip.

don't forget to measure the roof, then pop your guide lines to help keep the runs straight.
My first job out of high school was roofing .. and that is what we used also .. Stanley hook blades .. boss used to buy them by the hundreds
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Put down eave guard on the eaves and in the valleys. It is self-sealing and will prevent leaks should you have any ice damming.

I prefer to lace the shingles in the valley rather than cut it back on both sides.
You can cut all the starters on the ground if you read the instuctions. Then hooked blade's are the way to go for on the roof triming.

Laminated shingles have nothing to line up like three tab, easy for anyone to install.
It may sound strange but when I did my shed I let the ends hang over then went back and trimmed them all with some snips... I used the Wiss style tin snips. I leave about 3/4 of an inch of overhang past the edging. Works great.
Put down eave guard on the eaves and in the valleys. It is self-sealing and will prevent leaks should you have any ice damming.
Around here it is just called ice barrier. It works great and for the cost it is cheap insurance.

All I can say is AMEN to the hooked blades! They work great.
It may sound strange but when I did my shed I let the ends hang over then went back and trimmed them all with some snips... I used the Wiss style tin snips. I leave about 3/4 of an inch of overhang past the edging. Works great.
There should be a special jail with a workshop full of dull and broken tools set aside for tool abuse perps!
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Thanks for the suggestions guys. I knew I could count on you. Do the hooked blades fit in the regular razor knifes? I am guessing I will need quite a few of them before I finish. I know I went through a load of the regular razor blades the last time I did a roof. Do the hooked ones last longer from the abuse of cutting the shingles?

Andy
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It may sound strange but when I did my shed I let the ends hang over then went back and trimmed them all with some snips... I used the Wiss style tin snips. I leave about 3/4 of an inch of overhang past the edging. Works great.
Actually I was wondering if something like that would work quicker and easier than cutting each shingle. I know I know it is abusing the tool but if its easier and does a good job I may go for it.
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I prefer to lace the shingles in the valley rather than cut it back on both sides.
If you do it this way do you have to cut less shingles to length or do you do this because you prefer the look?
Actually I was wondering if something like that would work quicker and easier than cutting each shingle. I know I know it is abusing the tool but if its easier and does a good job I may go for it.
Call it abuse if you must but for $15 I'll do the job quicker and I can throw them away when I'm done if I have to... (which I didn't) saved them for the next roof job. You don't have to use the Wiss ones either you can use the ones that look like big scissors. The hook blades do work but this is quicker that's all... do a search on google I'm not the only one abusing snips for this... search asphalt shingle snips.
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The hook blades fit a standard utility knife and last a lot longer than the straight blades. Straight blades have to cut through the stones before they reach the base unless you cut from the underside.

Lacing the valley reduces water getting under the cut ends of the shingles. One side wraps up the other side and the top one get cut at the valley. Water that runs down one of the two sides goes on top of the other shingle. Water that does manage to go under the top shingle gets directed to the top just like step flashing works. I also like the look.

http://www.extremehowto.com/xh/article.asp?article_id=60154
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Have shingled a few roofs, lacing, or weaving the shingles together in the valleys , will hold up better than exposed valley material. I also use an old tin snips to cut shingles , when they are so worn they won't cut metal well any more , they are just right to cut shingles.
Thanks for the suggestions guys. I knew I could count on you. Do the hooked blades fit in the regular razor knifes? I am guessing I will need quite a few of them before I finish. I know I went through a load of the regular razor blades the last time I did a roof. Do the hooked ones last longer from the abuse of cutting the shingles?

Andy
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We call that linoleum knife a banana knife.

Here's a pic of a hooked blade.
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