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Discussion Starter #1
Does anyone know where you can get 3rd party roll bars for garden tractors, I was searching and saw a pic of a newer craftsman GT with a roll bar, and it looked extremely well built. I've got a new cub GT2544 with lots of sideway slopes to mow in my back yard, unable to mow up and down. I'm getting ballast put in my rear tires, but I'd still like some re-assurance of some type :) The pic doesn't nearly do it justice, my yard is basically an acre of 2 big upside down bowls on top of each other.
 

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I Love All Color Tractors
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I don't know of anything right off the top of my head, but I admire your thinking safety. I feel your pain being a fellow Mountaineer.

BTW, what part of WV are you from?
 

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Given that a GT has bolt on wheels, you could widen the stance with spacers. I don't know of any aftermarket ROPS for your GT so you would have to go custom.
 

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ROP's only works together with seat belt. In a rollover even slow speed you won't be able to hang on . slkpk
 

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You might look at Femco Mfg. They make aftermarket ROPS for many tractors. :)
 

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[...]The pic doesn't nearly do it justice, my yard is basically an acre of 2 big upside down bowls on top of each other.
Maybe what you need is a bulldozer. Solve a few problems at once.

I like LLigetfa's suggestion of widening the track. Maybe even go dualies.

I didn't get much on "cubs rops" either when googling. At a minimum, how about installing a tilt meter?

Another idea was a seat that tilts sideways so you can keep your weight above the CG. Didn't find much googling that either.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Maybe what you need is a bulldozer. Solve a few problems at once.
Already priced that, and a 20' stone retaining wall... maybe when that lottery boat comes in. Everything here is underground utilities, so the pain of getting that moved.....

BTW, what part of WV are you from?
Princeton, right on the WV/VA border, from my back deck I have a beautiful view of east river mtn, the border.
 

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Changing the existing rear rubber to Ag tires. Loading those tires with liquid ballast and adding cast iron wheel weights will all add traction as well as lower the center of gravity. Additional weights can added tight behind the tractor right at the axle line to further lower the CoG. Putting on a ROPS will be a difficult process due to the way your tractor is made. ROPS are fine in wide open areas but can be a problem and even dangerous when working around trees with low branches.

Using spacers or going to duals may also bring problems with the trans-axle because you have changed the leverage being exerted on the axle and axle bearing. Such a move would void your warranty if the dealer became aware of it. Neither of these changes are something that I would attempt on your tractor.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Changing the existing rear rubber to Ag tires. Loading those tires with liquid ballast and adding cast iron wheel weights will all add traction as well as lower the center of gravity. Additional weights can added tight behind the tractor right at the axle line to further lower the CoG. Putting on a ROPS will be a difficult process due to the way your tractor is made. ROPS are fine in wide open areas but can be a problem and even dangerous when working around trees with low branches.

Using spacers or going to duals may also bring problems with the trans-axle because you have changed the leverage being exerted on the axle and axle bearing. Such a move would void your warranty if the dealer became aware of it. Neither of these changes are something that I would attempt on your tractor.
My dealer is going to add ballast, I asked him what was the max amount per tire I could go and he said 3 gal of antifreeze and the rest water going to 75% per tire. My old tractor was a CC LT1045 and I had lug tires on it. I guess where this new one sits so much higher my nerves aren't as good. Also the safety kill switch is much more sensitive, I'm thinking it's because of the bigger seat/springs. On the 1045 I could slide my butt half way over the seat and was comfortable, not with this one.
 

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Just use RV plumbing anti-freeze, not engine A/F plus water. The RV A/F is much more enviro friendly and cheaper too. No difference in weight and you can go to 80 percent fill.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Really, can you get RV anti-freeze at Wal-Mart or TSC?
 

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Using spacers or going to duals may also bring problems with the trans-axle because you have changed the leverage being exerted on the axle and axle bearing.
How about if the inner tires were inflated more than the outers so that the outer tires carried little or no load until nearing the tipping point? Should avoid increasing the leverage on the axle bearing much, but would act kind of like wheelie bars if/when ever needed.
 

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Really, can you get RV anti-freeze at Wal-Mart or TSC?
Wal-Mart for sure. Remember ANY RVer can use Wal-Mart parking lot for over-night use per Sam himself. Thus they keep some RV supplies in the automotive section.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
tractor supply had general purpose antifreeze for 3.99/gal compared to the cheapest of anything else 8.99/gal. I'm going to talk to a buddy to see how feasible it would be to make a bar or something, again maybe once I get some more weight below me I might get my nerves back up, but until that slope is around 45x200 yds that's gonna get pushed...
 

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Just curious, what is the actual slope angle of your property at the steepest part? Here's an angle calculator if you're so "inclined" (ok, bad pun).

Hard to tell from the photo but I'd guess between 15 and 20 degrees.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I used that calc, and I also have a 48" craftsman digital level/angle finder. They were surprisingly close. The avg slope is 22 deg, with a section of 28 deg (roughly 35ft of length). Whenever the contractor built these houses, landscaping was the least of their worries. My front yard is nice and level in WV terms, the backyard is a different world. I'm going to measure my neighbors next, I take care of them too.
 

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[...]The avg slope is 22 deg, with a section of 28 deg (roughly 35ft of length).
Wow, 28 degrees? :eek:

I would think that rules out just about any riding mower except one specifically designed for steep slopes. That's double what my i1050's recommended max slope is.. and mine has a wide stance and low center of gravity.

Sounds like a self-propelled walk-behind might be your best bet. Or that remote control Spider thing in an earlier post (that thing is cool but probably boucoup bucks).

Or just hire a lawn service and make it their problem...
 

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Wow, 28 degrees? :eek:

I would think that rules out just about any riding mower except one specifically designed for steep slopes. That's double what my i1050's recommended max slope is.. and mine has a wide stance and low center of gravity.

Sounds like a self-propelled walk-behind might be your best bet. Or that remote control Spider thing in an earlier post (that thing is cool but probably boucoup bucks).

Or just hire a lawn service and make it their problem...
For that steepest part what I would love to have is an old FlyMo. My great-grandpa had three of them when I was little, best thing ever for hills, just tie a rope to it, drop it over and pull it back up.

The 28 deg section I've never rode, I'm not that dumb. I don't know if this picture will give you a better idea or not, you can see my neighbors house behind the tree house, all of that is some of what I mow, the 'chasm' continues down out of site from what the pic shows.
 

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