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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
I really think you are trying to save money in the wrong place. Buy a superior oil run 25 % longer on your oil change there's your savings. Equipment is too expensive to run bargain oil.

I honestly doubt if you will notice any difference in money out of your pocket or your boss's pocket. Between running cheaper oil changing it more often and running a higher quality full synthetic and get running a little longer between changes.

Mowing grass, especially fast, is hard on any little gas motor don't run cheap oil in them.

If this is a real business you care about TCO total cost of ownership and operation. You don't worry about what one individual expense is.
馃槄Exactly why I've come to the conclusion above. It was my boss's idea, said the dealership told him it would be cheaper and easier to get. Just fine for our use. Hours of research later, I'm coming up with different results, and that's okay. Boss really doesn't care much either way. Can't trust dealerships too much I guess...

-S.W.
 

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Don't tell my 6- 40-45year old engines that they got to wear out soon------
----It was recommended to use 30w non detergent oil in them--Hum I guess it works--- Now that said there is some hydro-oil that is Stright 30w and we all know that this is real clean oil.
Just because someone recommended non-detergent oil doesn't mean that recommendation was good/correct advice.

There is a reason the only non-detergent oil left around is in quart bottles in small quantities and sold as compressor oil and labeled as such! Detergents keep engines clean. And it doesn't matter what type or age of engine. The only thing that may happen with an older engine that ran non-detergent oil when switching to detergent oil is the same thing that may happen when changing from conventional/mineral oil to synthetic: the oil may slowly clean debris and sludge out of the engine for you and you may develop leaks where that sludge was plugging up leak paths in old seals and o-rings and gaskets. We have learned things and made better things. It doesn't mean old products are bad but it does mean we have better choices now. I don't run SAE 30 weight oil in my half ton pick-up truck and it also gets almost 30 mpg on the highway (it is diesel). 460 lb-ft of torque and a heated steering wheel. No half ton did that in the 80s or 90s. Change can be good.
 

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Just because someone recommended non-detergent oil doesn't mean that recommendation was good/correct advice.

There is a reason the only non-detergent oil left around is in quart bottles in small quantities and sold as compressor oil and labeled as such! Detergents keep engines clean. And it doesn't matter what type or age of engine. The only thing that may happen with an older engine that ran non-detergent oil when switching to detergent oil is the same thing that may happen when changing from conventional/mineral oil to synthetic: the oil may slowly clean debris and sludge out of the engine for you and you may develop leaks where that sludge was plugging up leak paths in old seals and o-rings and gaskets. We have learned things and made better things. It doesn't mean old products are bad but it does mean we have better choices now. I don't run SAE 30 weight oil in my half ton pick-up truck and it also gets almost 30 mpg on the highway (it is diesel). 460 lb-ft of torque and a heated steering wheel. No half ton did that in the 80s or 90s. Change can be good.
It worked for 45 years so I guess it was bad advice.

Pfffftttttttttt
 

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Discussion Starter · #45 · (Edited)
Just because someone recommended non-detergent oil doesn't mean that recommendation was good/correct advice.

There is a reason the only non-detergent oil left around is in quart bottles in small quantities and sold as compressor oil and labeled as such! Detergents keep engines clean. And it doesn't matter what type or age of engine. The only thing that may happen with an older engine that ran non-detergent oil when switching to detergent oil is the same thing that may happen when changing from conventional/mineral oil to synthetic: the oil may slowly clean debris and sludge out of the engine for you and you may develop leaks where that sludge was plugging up leak paths in old seals and o-rings and gaskets. We have learned things and made better things. It doesn't mean old products are bad but it does mean we have better choices now. I don't run SAE 30 weight oil in my half ton pick-up truck and it also gets almost 30 mpg on the highway (it is diesel). 460 lb-ft of torque and a heated steering wheel. No half ton did that in the 80s or 90s. Change can be good.
I find it hard to believe that the oil is the thing giving you 30 mpg. Modern machining, electronics and precision engineering did that. Total mileage on the engine would mean much more. I'm not arguing that detergent oil Isn't better, because I believe it is, most of the time.

By the way, the other interesting thing modern engineering has been doing, is making engines that blow up after just a few thousand miles. Go figure. 馃

BTW, What does the heated steering wheel have to do with it

Anyway, I have made my decision about the oil for now, see above if you're interested...

Thanks, 馃憤

-S.W.
 

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"Just because someone recommended non-detergent oil doesn't mean that recommendation was good/correct advice. "

So my 1951 and 1952 Ferguson 2085s were built in the Coventry factory in the UK. Owners manual recommended SAE 30 grade engine oil.

A Ferguson mobile service mechanic for over 25 years, recommended SAE 30 for those Standard engines.

I have ran those 2 tractors for 20 years with ZERO engine issues..........a 70 and a 71 year old engine has survived on SAE 30 oil !!!! Why would I change now...

My 3 cents worth.....
 

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We get a drum of 10w30 gold supreme semi synthetic rated ck4 from fs conserve farm products. Use it in mowers trucks skid steers and tractors. It鈥檚 a diesel oil formulated for use in diesel def engines and gas catalytic converters and her


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I find it hard to believe that the oil is the thing giving you 30 mpg. Modern machining, electronics and precision engineering did that. Total mileage on the engine would mean much more. I'm not arguing that detergent oil Isn't better, because I believe it is, most of the time.

By the way, the other interesting thing modern engineering has been doing, is making engines that blow up after just a few thousand miles. Go figure. 馃

BTW, What does the heated steering wheel have to do with it

Anyway, I have made my decision about the oil for now, see above if you're interested...

Thanks, 馃憤

-S.W.
SW, reread (or read) my last sentence. That鈥檚 the point about the heated steering wheel and oil and everything else.
 

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Discussion Starter · #49 · (Edited)
SW, reread (or read) my last sentence. That鈥檚 the point about the heated steering wheel and oil and everything else.
Okay, thanks, I got that. That post was weeks ago. No hard feelings, I've just moved on.

I agree change can be good, but it can also create different sort of problems. The thing I wonder about is how, after over a hundred years of building gasoline engines, they can still mess things as simple a valve lifters up. Are things changing TOO fast?

Anyway, I was trying to get an answer on if Diesel oil can be used in gasoline engines. Seems to have got a bit off-topic. The answer seemed like; Yes you can, but don't really need to unless you have a good reason (like easy supply) I've overruled it in my case, because half the machines aren't mine, so I'm not about to do anything non manufacturer recommended right now...

That's okay, all's well.

Talk later,
-S.W.
 
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