My Tractor Forum banner

1 - 20 of 20 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
870 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello

I have searched this forum (and some others) to find out what I can about the gannon earthcavator. I understand that they can be difficult to find and relatively expensive.

These are photos of an earthcavator beauty that was restored ( by another lucky owner).













I know that there was some talk about measuring and posting information about this lovely piece of equipment so that some one could fab something similar. I cannot find where this was done. I'd like to correct that if I can.

My sears tractor could use the fd-32 or fd-36 models, but if you would have a 42" model, it is my belief that only the width (and the number of teeth) are different.

I would be glad to do the measuring and posting, but I have not (yet) found one of my own. I have several pictures and diagrams that may be of assistance. They were NOT taken by me.









Some earlier posts also led me to believe that teeth and cutting edges MAY still be available from the manufacturer, but I have NOT confirmed this.



If you have an earthcavator near zip 17331 that I could photograph and measure (or if you would be willing to do this, on the one you have) I thank you and would be very grateful.


Thanks:thThumbsU
 

·
Cranky Motorsports
Joined
·
15,275 Posts
I'm interested too!!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
870 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
More research has led me to Messick's (a site sponsor)

http://www.messicks.com/woodsbrands/Gannon.aspx

They have SOME parts shown for both the 36" and the 42 "

plow bolts to mount the cutting edge pn 21129 $0.36 ea x8

shank for ripper (w/o tip) pn E03023 $6.71 ea x4

cutting edge for 36" pn E09021 $33.70 ea x2

cutting edge for 42" pn E12021 $18.77 x2

(I'm not sure the the shorter pieces are more expensive,but that's what it says?)

Again, this was posted on the website, I have not called to verify that the parts are still available.:fing32:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
254 Posts
Very nice pictures. I have operated one on a 8N Ford. The Ford had a self leveling lift.
One for my GT6000 would be entirely too hard to make for me.
Thanks for the pics but I'll opt for the center mount blade. Easier to keep the blade on grade.
Marvin
 

·
7000 posts and climbing!
Joined
·
7,145 Posts
The last time I contacted Woods Equipment they said the FD-36 Earthcavators had been discontinued from production back in about 2009. I think a new FD-36 from Woods cost about $1100 new if you could get them to make one. Maybe it would be worth taking the time to call them and ask if they have been bought out by another manufacturer or been put back into production.

I had a Sears FD-36 and it was a really nice box blade to have. It weighed a lot and was really hard to lift up with a standard Sears hitch. My ST16 has a long lift lever welded to the handle on the hitch and it made lifting it a lot easier.
 

·
7000 posts and climbing!
Joined
·
7,145 Posts
Another MTF member posted an ad in the Shopping Mall section a while back. He said he was having the shanks made somewhere out of 4140 steel. I showed him some steel to use to make shanks out of but I did not find a reply from him as to whether or not the shanks had been made.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
870 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Ptsw

Thanks for the info. My search to build a earthcavator ended when i found an original. The thread became zombie-fied when i posted the link for another member considering building their own.

:)

Sent from the MTF Free App
 

·
7000 posts and climbing!
Joined
·
7,145 Posts
Okay........I do remember you were repainting yours a while back.

Those are good box blades. They really can push some dirt. No telling why Woods would have stopped production.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
11,065 Posts
It's got to be hard to sell lots of $1000+ attachments for such a niche market. Average Joe will buy a whole new tractor for that much.

Mike
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
28 Posts
hey guys
This is just my humble opinion,
I searched for an earthcavator and finally found one. You need an elect. lift to use one. My advise is to find a grader blade and make a box blade out of that.
the gannon is just to heavy.
Just my thoughts

Regards,
Henry t
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
99 Posts
Here is one I made a couple of years ago. It's 42" wide, I made the rippers also and hardened them. I had a friend with a real 36" Earthcavator to get measurements from. ImageUploadedByMyTractorForum Free App1379271793.588269.jpg ImageUploadedByMyTractorForum Free App1379271825.609425.jpg ImageUploadedByMyTractorForum Free App1379271916.866885.jpg ImageUploadedByMyTractorForum Free App1379271938.541020.jpg ImageUploadedByMyTractorForum Free App1379271962.060747.jpg


Sent from the MTF Free App
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,200 Posts
Tractorguy - Do you still have the drawings or measurements? There is a thread I started and have started to create drawings for building one. and would love to have another set of dimensions to check my design against. Would you be willing to also check my design? If so please send me a PM with your email and I will send what I have to check.

Thanks,
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
99 Posts
elsimon - I will get back to you when I can get on the computer. For some reason I can't send a pm from my phone.


Sent from the MTF Free App
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
99 Posts
Just to let everyone know I used a newer style Sears snow blade for mine. The way that the Gannon was braced on the back side of the blade makes it very strong. If you used a slice of pipe it would have to be at least 48" pipe to get the slight curve you need. Just my two cents.


Sent from the MTF Free App
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,200 Posts
Update -

I have had 2 people review my drawings and I have one more still reviewing them. I should be able to get back on it in the next couple of days to create more drawings. I will create an overall assembly drawing with section views and ask for clarifications.

As a review I found that both people in some cases got the same dimensions or at least close. In other cases there was a significant difference. I am looking at it from a couple of views. First the measurements were taken after paint. This would account for the slightly larger than nominal plate thicknesses. For the round pieces I am looking at standard pipe sizes (sch 40). The other factors I am looking at are wear and the possibility that they were from different years and they made the parts either thinner to save material and lighten the assembly or they made the parts thicker because of failures. I would error on the failure side of things. Most of us have seen the pictures of the later Suburban frame breaks. My details will error on the side of thicker material. It might make the assembly heavier to lift but I think it would be worth the durability. But after I get the drawings done you can choose what you want to do.
 
1 - 20 of 20 Posts
Top