[slojoe]

I have a series 5 seems original and fairly well maintained over the years. Runs good shifts good but i have to hold the shift lever in reverse pretty hard or it won't stay in place. What could be the issue/how to fix.

Also it won't climb at all in 1st or 2nd gear, need to shift to 3rd or higher, seems like it is slipping. Here is a pic of the underneath, would a new rubber disc solve this, don't know what they're supposed to look like but this one has some cracks and spins freely, looks like it could be original. Do i just remove the 4 smaller nuts and the large center nut to replace the disc?

 

[Mow Joe]

You are supposed to have to hold it in reverse until the clutch is let out, then it will stay until the clutch is depressed. Don't smash the clutch down tightly, let up on it a bit, then it will shift easier.

Just remove the 4 small nuts to remove the clutch. Yours looks pretty good, I doubt that is your problem. Most likely the yoke (the red piece that rocks back and forth when the clutch is depressed) has excessive wear in the slot where the chain case slides. The chain case blocks the view. Also the roller on the bottom of the chain case may be worn as well. I have seen the aluminum disc have excessive wear in some positions as well, but it's somewhat unusual.

HTH

 

[NOVAZ27]

If your clutch is starting to slip the Teflon insert inside the rubber disk is probably worn out. Cheap fix.

LATER

 

[slojoe]

You are supposed to have to hold it in reverse until the clutch is let out, then it will stay until the clutch is depressed. Don't smash the clutch down tightly, let up on it a bit, then it will shift easier.

Just remove the 4 small nuts to remove the clutch. Yours looks pretty good, I doubt that is your problem. Most likely the yoke (the red piece that rocks back and forth when the clutch is depressed) has excessive wear in the slot where the chain case slides. The chain case blocks the view. Also the roller on the bottom of the chain case may be worn as well. I have seen the aluminum disc have excessive wear in some positions as well, but it's somewhat unusual.

HTH

Thanks for the tip on reverse clutching, i am still learning how to drive. So i had a look at the yoke & roller, neither "looked" worn, quite a bit of grease on them. Anyway I am ordering some wear parts and will include the roller as it is only 3 bucks with snap ring http://www.snapperpartstore.com/pages/OemParts?aribrand=SNP#/Snapper/28085S_28%22_8_HP_Rear_Engine_Rider_Series_5/Smooth_Clutch_Assembly/4402/7561
However the yoke costs 31 bucks and looks pretty involved to replace, what are the odds i need a new one? Most of the parts on this machine look pretty good, not a lot of abuse, well maintained.

If your clutch is starting to slip the Teflon insert inside the rubber disk is probably worn out. Cheap fix.
LATER

I will order part#5 on the link above, which i believe is the Teflon insert, called a "thrust washer" in the diagram. Took the clutch apart yesterday, it had 2 Teflon inserts, one on either side of the rubber driven disc. But the parts diagram only shows 1? Maybe someone put in an extra disc that is causing it to slip..??

I cleaned up all the discs with emery cloth, now it slips worse. So i will order 2 Teflon inserts and a new rubber disc as it is only 15 bucks and i'm already paying shipping. Thanks for the tip the inserts are only 1.50 apiece.

 

[rscurtis]

In case you're not aware of it, that system can be shifted on the fly without the clutch. Start of in 1st speed and then move the shifter to the speed you want.
Starting in 1st is easier on the disc. It must be held in reverse, it will not stay on its own.

 

[NOVAZ27]

The Teflon insert I was referring to is shown in the picture below. It goes inside the driven disc #4 between #4 and the KIT HUB & CUP #3. Incidentally this Teflon insert is not shown in the exploded view you referred to. This insert acts as a Teflon slip ring which wear out eventually.

CLEAR THE AIR TIME

 

[slojoe]

Thanks for clarifying i will order one of those. 10 bucks delivered, will try the cheapest thing first, as i recall the disc had some radial play so makes sense. thanks again

 

[propwash]

Your mower does look well maintained,it has the later "black" boots;and maybe the "smooth"clutch,maybe a few grease leaks,but just keep it full,and clean it up,so the grease,doesn't get on the drive/driven discs.I don't have any dimensions,for the "yoke" I just check for "burrs" on the areas near the slot.to indicate wear,the nylon bushings,also wear,sometimes.

 

[slojoe]

In case you're not aware of it, that system can be shifted on the fly without the clutch. Start of in 1st speed and then move the shifter to the speed you want.
Starting in 1st is easier on the disc. It must be held in reverse, it will not stay on its own.

OK thanks. Probably should not shift into neutral, park, or reverse without clutching?? Will it mow in reverse, or do i need to disengage blades before going backwards??

Your mower does look well maintained,it has the later "black" boots;and maybe the "smooth"clutch,maybe a few grease leaks,but just keep it full,and clean it up,so the grease,doesn't get on the drive/driven discs.I don't have any dimensions,for the "yoke" I just check for "burrs" on the areas near the slot.to indicate wear,the nylon bushings,also wear,sometimes.

I didn't feel any burrs, smeared grease all along the tracks in the yoke with my finger, it seemed in good shape. As much oil/grease as is under there, there was no residue on any of the discs. Still i cleaned all discs with brake cleaner then emery cloth but it didn't increase hill traction, so i will try a new teflon liner.
Which nylon bushings should i be checking? Thanks for the help

 

[propwash]

The bushings,I referenced,are the ones the "yoke" pivots,on. If you remove them ,pay attention to the way they,face,and which side the "yoke"is on.

 

[slojoe]

Do you mean the "bearing #34" in the diagram i linked to above? Don't see any nylon bushings in the pic. Getting ready to order some parts so will try all the little things.

I got a new teflon liner, installed it inside the driven disc. It works on the small inclines, still slips on the bigger hills, need to climb off and ride it uphill like a skateboard. So will try a new rubber disc and include whatever related bushings i can get in the shipment. Leaving yoke replacement for the last thing b/c of price, i'm already at the "break even" point on this machine. thanks for the help it is a good mower just trying to get it right.

 

[propwash]

Here's a series 6 clutch illustration,it should be very similar to your series 5. I couldn't find a series 5 illustration,and my computer,won't let me download much right now. I would urge you, or anyone else, wanting to work ,on their own machine to download the literature,for your series,from the "RER manuals"sticky at the top of the "Snapper forum" index page. The "series 4,5 6&later service manual" is invaluable,especially if you are working on the transmission/differential.or "chain case".
I couldn't find the link you referred to,so I'll use this.The "yoke bushings" are #34 in this illustration.Also notice the linkage piece#18,and spring#29,there are 3 mounting holes for the spring,which allows for more spring tension,this is all that actually holds the "rubber disc" against the "drive disc",the yoke guides the chain case,to the "gear" position,and then "locks" it there when the clutch pedal is released.There are a few "adjustments" on the earlier series, (none except the "brake/clutch cable" on the later series) On the earlier series,refer to the "service manual"

 

[NJsnapper]

In case you're not aware of it, that system can be shifted on the fly without the clutch. Start of in 1st speed and then move the shifter to the speed you want.
Starting in 1st is easier on the disc. It must be held in reverse, it will not stay on its own.

Mine never pops out of reverse and does NOT have to be held in gear.:dunno:

 

[Mow Joe]

Once the clutch is let out it will stay in reverse until it is depressed again. Also, IIRC there is a rod, spring, and tube connected to the yoke (37,38,39) for this function. I think if you leave these parts off it will function as NJ's mower does, but I'm going back about 1/4 century so don't bet the farm on it.

 

[propwash]

I think that these parts,were dropped with series 9,the later series,don't show them. My series21 would hold in reverse,when new, but quit,sometime later,I don't use it much anyway.

 

[slojoe]

The parts came in, new rubber disc, spring, yoke bushings. I installed them and it works great, it climbs fine and doesn't pop out of reverse until i put in the clutch. Thanks for all the help, these machines are pretty easy to work on.

Parts came from the "snapper parts store" online which i linked to above. I would recommend them from my experience. Their online diagrams are very helpful. Prices are competitive with ebay etc and they have parts i couldn't find anywhere else, almost everything in the diagrams is available.

The boxes say Briggs&Stratton who i suppose bought out Snapper? My old clutch said Snapper on it and was probably original, wonder if the new one will last 25 years.