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Discussion Starter #1
First, "the story"

Original owner parked this 4020PS (`93 pin # 14184109) in Oct `09 due to a hyd leak and failing health. Said owner unfortunately dies in Jan `10.

I buy it last week from his widow, not running. ( Rear PTO/ Mower deck/ SB38 Caster / UB44 blade/ Three point hitch/ F27 adapter/ "Worksaver" rear grader blade / Flow control valve/wheel weights and fair cosmetics) Shows 1100 hrs on the liar-ometer

Solve an electrical issue. (Simple once Brian & Castoff showed me the light) Dump and replace engine and hyd fluids, filters/plugs etc. etc. Starts right up, P motor runs smoother and quieter than my 446 B engine. Everything works, run it awhile and trace the steady hyd DRIP to hoses at the p/s box inside the dash tower. Craft up ( no room in there!) a wrench to snug the fittings on the lines mentioned above.

Restart and the drip is now a full on leak, landing on floor and being flung off the flywheel screen and dripping out from the lower edges of the cooling shrouds. Could be the crankshaft seal or the forward pump seal. I`m betting pump as the oil is cleaner than the dipstick shows even with a fresh crankcase fill. I guess I could run it longer and watch which oil level drops, but that makes me nervous.

Am I correct in ASSUMING that engine removal is the easiest way to R&R the pump ? Bringing it out the bottom would appear to be the 12 labors of Hercules

As always, your input appreciated.
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It is cramped under the dash area. It is a fairly simple, but kind of time consuming job to pull the engine. The hyd pump is mounted directly to the back of the engine on a mounting bracket. You can reach the hoses, but personally I find it less frustrating just to yank the engine. Drain hydraulic system, then basically just start at the front and remove the hood and just keep taking off what gets in your way next.:crybaby:
 

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Discussion Starter #3
My 446 has the bracket you mention, the 4020 with the engine turned 180 degrees does not appear to be built that way.
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You will be so happy when you pull the engine and see the room you will have to work in. Drain the hyd system (again) and remove the pump coupler from the engine, not the coupler from the pump. Think it takes a 1/2" wrench with a long handle to get between the motor and the tractor frame. The coupler has two allen wrench set bolts that I have found difficult to get out without striping them. You will then have access to clean everything up once your repair is finished.

JasonG
 

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Discussion Starter #5
You will be so happy when you pull the engine and see the room you will have to work in. Drain the hyd system (again) and remove the pump coupler from the engine, not the coupler from the pump. Think it takes a 1/2" wrench with a long handle to get between the motor and the tractor frame. The coupler has two allen wrench set bolts that I have found difficult to get out without striping them. You will then have access to clean everything up once your repair is finished.

JasonG
The 4 bolts appear to be easy to remove, the allen set screw just snapped a Mac Tools hex driver . Given that the 4 bolts would be rather difficult to reinstall with the engine in place, my plan is remove the 4 coupler bolts first, deal with the set screws second (looks like a drill is in order) I assume I can then attach the coupler to the engine and slide the engine back onto the pump shaft and then tighten the set screws. Does that make sense ?

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remove the engine bolts from the frame first, then you can swivel the engine a bit to give your hands some room to remove the coupler bolts. The coupler will stay on the pump shaft. If you need to bring the pump in for service, you could let the hyd shop remove the coupler if they need to. Then so the same in reverse to put it back together leaving the engine bolts to go on last. Might want to put new engine bolts/locking nuts on while your at it.
 

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Before pulling the engine try to make sure you know where the leak is coming from.

Pull the hood off, remove the tower screen ( I even gently pried out the filter and its mount to get a better view) and try to dry off any oil, you may even want to pull the spark plugs out and have someone else crank it over while you observe.

The problem of prematurely pulling the engine is once its out if you can't locate the leak - then what?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Before pulling the engine try to make sure you know where the leak is coming from.

Pull the hood off, remove the tower screen ( I even gently pried out the filter and its mount to get a better view) and try to dry off any oil, you may even want to pull the spark plugs out and have someone else crank it over while you observe.

The problem of prematurely pulling the engine is once its out if you can't locate the leak - then what?
Turns out this ^ was better than good advice, it was excellent . After "cooling off" for a couple days and considering Caseman2`s advice, I decided that a spontaneous pump seal failure was just WAY to coincidental.
Operating under the theory of "it`s always the last thing you touched" it was more likely to be related to those p/s lines I had tightned. So.. cleaned it all up (again) filled it back up (again) and spun it over with the plugs out.
Voila ! the p.s. line had a pin hole leak that shot a jet of oil past all 111 pieces between itself and the engine and landed on the flywheel screen. When running it was impossible to see this as the f-wheel was flinging Rotella
everywhere. I was so overjoyed at not having to do "deep" work that I took the opportunity to decarb the combustion chambers, wasn`t necessary( I assume somebody has already done it) as there was no more than .005 buildup. The graphoil gasket kits recommended by "Boom" from Onanparts made it painless and it gave me an opportunity to ensure that all cooling fins & tins were spotless. An email to Brian for some bits and pieces and I`ll be one happy Ingeroid.

As always, thanks to all !:thThumbsU
 

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Well when I read the thread I thought it had to be one of those hoses you had tightened.

When you see all of that plumbing in that dash tower and how little room there is to work it makes you appreciate the 200 and 400 series a lot more. :D
Keep in mind you can take the engine loose and slide it forward just a bit or even twist it a bit to give you more room, but watch your wiring throttle and choke cables.

Glad you found it a simple fix, remember we want pics. :wwp:
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Seller just dropped off a mulching kit and six sets of mower blades. !!

EDIT: more goodies, ALL the manuals and the original sales order.
 
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