My Tractor Forum banner

1 - 20 of 21 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
142 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I need to repair the tie rods on all three of my customs. My custom 66 custom 6 has a adjustable tie rod with replacable ends, and so does my 68 10xl, but my 70 custom 7 has a solid tie rod that is broken. I need some replacement ends for the custom 6 and the 10xl and a whole assembly for the 7. All the model numbers for the three customs are in my signature. I have visited the sears website and it looks like all three of them originally came with a solid tie rod with non replacable ends, so the custom 6 and 10xl must of been replaced at some point. I looked up 917.25060 which is a 72 10xl and it came factory with the tie rod with removable ends. So I assume the 6 and 10xl have been replaced with the newer design. Of course this all means squat because sears have discontinued all these parts and i havent been able to cross them with anything online. I also havent found a similar tie rod end that would thread into the tube... so i guess my questions are, will any other off the shelf parts work? nothing at tractor supply looked like it would work. If I have to make something from scratch, can anyone recommend me a good starting point for quality parts? maybe a write up somewhere? i have searched for hours haha. here are pics of my three tractors steering
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
142 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
As far as an alternative, I have been looking at go kart tie rod end kits on ebay... i can prob make one of those work for me if I have to.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
676 Posts
At some point you will probable have to spec diameter, threads per inch and left or right hand threads for the tube. Are they bolt thru swivel eyes or an actual 1 piece tie rod end. Just thinking out loud. McMaster Carr is another place to look.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
142 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
I haven't taken them apart but I think they are one piece and not threw bolt. I'm pretty sure I can find some heim joints that I can make work for the two. Then I can probably weld nuts to the end of a piece of tube and also use lh and rh heim joints to make a new tie rod. I will try and pull one of the tie rods off tomorrow and see what thread etc everything is. I do know that it's roughly 20" eye to eye.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,874 Posts
Mc Master Carr has some ball joints. Napa can also get or has " Throttle Ball Joints ". You just need to match the sizes and you may need to thread some rod if you can't match the rod thread
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
142 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Thanks guys. Think I can figure it out from here
 

·
15,000 +posts!
Joined
·
19,767 Posts
I would just weld two 3/8" nuts to a piece of 1/2" pipe the correct length and use two of the threaded male ball joint tie rod ends most all hardware stores and tractor supply stores carry...it'll be plenty strong and then you'll be able to replace the ends if need be easy later on..
I'm going to have to do that to at least one of my Suburban's with the "one piece" drag link,but I can probably just use the existing drag link itself and weld coupler nuts to it to allow the tie rod ends to screw onto it and be adjustable..
 

·
Cranky Motorsports
Joined
·
15,136 Posts
I would just weld two 3/8" nuts to a piece of 1/2" pipe the correct length and use two of the threaded male ball joint tie rod ends most all hardware stores and tractor supply stores carry...it'll be plenty strong and then you'll be able to replace the ends if need be easy later on..
I'm going to have to do that to at least one of my Suburban's with the "one piece" drag link,but I can probably just use the existing drag link itself and weld coupler nuts to it to allow the tie rod ends to screw onto it and be adjustable..
for your customs or a suburban? I have a bunch of suburban tie rods. I keep them all, but I haven't ever needed to change one yet lol
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
142 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Tractor-holic, that's exactly what my dad suggest I do. Thanks again!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
26 Posts
I found some replacement tie-rods at TSC and threaded some 3/8" steel rod I got at Lowes, has held up for couple years now. I have had to straighten a few times when I caught a tire on tree root. She's a yard tug, no mowing, hauling dead limbs and such.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
142 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
I thought of that too 69 custom7 but was worried about bending it using allthread. I wonder how good it would hold up if I slid some pipe over the allthread for strength. That would be a supper easy solution
 

·
15,000 +posts!
Joined
·
19,767 Posts
That is what I was going to suggest,just slide some pipe over the threaded rod..
I think 1/8" pipe will fit over a 3/8" rod snugly..or weld or clamp a hunk of 1/2" re-bar over the threaded rod with wire rope clamps....that'll beef it up considerably..

Those who want to use 1/2" pipe as a tie rod,can also buy "coupler" nuts intended to join two threaded rods together that are about 1-1/2" long,those will offer more strength since they can slide further into the pipe,and have more threads for the tie rods--finding those with fine threads might be a challenge though,most local places only stock the coarse thread ones..

You could also use some 3/4" round stock with holes drilled and tapped to 3/8 x 24 thread if you have that ability,for a tie rod...

James,I only have Suburbans now--sold my last Custom quite a few years ago !....one has a drag link that is kind of sloppy,and the GT-18 will possibly need one too,but maybe its just in need of having the nut tightened too,I haven't really looked closely at it yet..
I haven't had a tie rod fail on any of my Suburbans --yet!..bet some are getting sloppy though...I had one drag link ball stud pop out of one I owned before,I welded a washer over it so it cant pop off again..but it always felt "loose"..
I don't know why they made them with non replaceable ball ends..especially when the tie rods are replaceable..
 

·
World's Slowest Restorer
Joined
·
141 Posts
A few years back I replaced the end of one of the tie rods on my 71 Sub 12. If I remember correctly, it was a relatively common thread on the end of the rod, so they swapped out in a matter of minutes. 90% sure the replacement part was in stock at CarQuest, though it could have been Delta Power Equipment (which is one of the local chains of farm equipment/powersports dealers). My sub is in pieces at the moment, in process of a restoration, but I will see if I can get a part number off the replacement for ya.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
This is what you need to make up tie rods and drag links--Heim Joints. Ther are various types and threads--Google them. They are also cheapish--Check ebay.
I used two on my clutch linkage I built for my re engined Custom 6.and they had grease fittings on them.

 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
26 Posts
i just went through this with my GT. I tried a couple of places, but in the end i ordered from McMaster.com. They have all the sizes, along with Left-hand and Right-hand Threaded tie rod ends. You need to check, because it took ordering twice because the one that broke on my machine was Left-handed threads (of Course!).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
142 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
Thanks guys. Will post pics when it comes time to come up with something.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Restoring 1972 SS15, Sears no longer makes the removable tie rod ends for the 2 short steering tie rods. They are odd in the fact that the male studs are 3/8x24 and the female shanks are 1/2x20! To date, I can find no one who makes this odd combination of sizes in a tie rod end.

One solution would be install a beefier tie rod end that is 1/2x20 for both the male stud and female shank. The caveat is, you have to use a step drill and enlarge the 3/8 tie rod stud holes on both spindles and the 2 fwd holes in the steering bell crank. There is plenty of edge distance in these pieces to ensure no sacrifice in strength....as a matter of fact, it would result in a beefier 1/2 tie rod! I see many mfgs of lawn mower/tractor parts that offer a 1/2x20 tie rod ends, so they are easy to find! I will study it more, but unless there is a steering geometry, adjsutment or installation fit issue, this appears to be my best solution for my 1972 SS15! Comments? Thanks!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,084 Posts
You might also consider (if the metal on one side of the tie rod end is thick enough) drilling out one side of the tie rod (where the threaded end is) larger and re-thread it to 1/2-20.
 
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
Top