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Discussion Starter #1
Hi everyone! Just yesterday, my brother in law and I replaced the blade belt. I guess that's not too bad considering my Cub LT1042 is 4 years old. And, this is the first belt!

Today, the Tranny belt is so loose, that tension spring pops off. And, low and behold; the belt is cracked in several places. So,,, we remove the deck, after he obtains a new belt, and gets a parts breakdown from our local dealer.

But, when attempting to release the bolt on the PTO, the engine shaft spins. How do you lock the motor so the bolt can be released? The tech at the dealer says it can be done by the consumer. They charge $100 to replace the belt. And, we can see the route of the belt underneath. It looks like if we can get the PTO off, we might be able to install the belt.

One thing I did notice was the area around the pulley where the belt goes has a guard so close, I'm not sure how that breaks away to allow the belt to go around the pulley.

Any advice, as always, is greatly appreciated! :)

Thanks!
 

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Get full model number and serial number from plate under tilting seat. Go to cub website and follow instructyions for getting downloaded manuals. Choose service manual . Read.
 

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Oh no! It's the manual Police again! :)

Run for cover!

The guys just wants advice on how to fix something. Can't we just HELP him?

Hopefully someone will do this job and post pics and instructions.

Otherwise, what's the purpose for having a website like this? Seems kinda counter-productive for the site to always answer............READ YOUR MANUAL.

Why don't we just close all these Forums and have the site home page just state simply:

"It's in your manual". :lalala:

With all that said, the service manual should cover the procedure and yes, that is a good option to consider.
 

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Jersey Mechanic
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LOL, to the op, the best way to remove the PTO bolt is with an impact, sometimes it is possible to use a ratchet on the flywheel nut and pto bolt, but doesn't always work.

Dan
 

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LOL, to the op, the best way to remove the PTO bolt is with an impact, sometimes it is possible to use a ratchet on the flywheel nut and pto bolt, but doesn't always work.

Dan
Yes that's how I do it. Or the poor mans impact, whack your wrench a few times with a mallet.

Scott
 

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Yes that's how I do it. Or the poor mans impact, whack your wrench a few times with a mallet.

Scott
Dunno if there's room on that engine/tractor combo, but can you pull the engine mount bolts and shift the engine around to slacken the drive belt as opposed to removing the PTO?

Joel
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Appreciate the input, everyone. I guess where I am at this point is just releasing the bolt under the PTO. The engine shaft rotating won't allow us to release that bottom bolt. I even tried holding the cooling blades while my brother in law turned the wrench on top of the engine after removing the plastic guard. That didn't work.

Maybe an impact wrench is the only logical way to loosen that bolt. If we could lock the motor, we might have a chance.
 

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i recently replaced the engine on a similar cub for my wife's stepfather. the easiest thing to do is to loosen the 4 bolts that hold the engine itself to the frame and slide the engine back an inch or so, however far it will move. this will give you the slack required to get the belt on. no need to remove the PTO. once the belt is on, slide the engine back forward, and tighten down. if yours is like his, when you slide the engine back you get enough room around the guard for it to clear it. i think there was 1 other guide on teh drive belt that he removed, i know he had one sitting there he said he pulled, but not sure where it was.
 

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Not having done it or gotten that far into my new tractor. One item you might consider is if you can get a strap wrench in there to hold the pulley while loosening the bolt you may be able to get it off that way. The other item you have to consider is are the threads right or left hand....... Any one out that that has done the job?????
 

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Make Better Mowers
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i recently replaced the engine on a similar cub for my wife's stepfather. the easiest thing to do is to loosen the 4 bolts that hold the engine itself to the frame and slide the engine back an inch or so, however far it will move. this will give you the slack required to get the belt on. no need to remove the PTO. once the belt is on, slide the engine back forward, and tighten down. if yours is like his, when you slide the engine back you get enough room around the guard for it to clear it. i think there was 1 other guide on teh drive belt that he removed, i know he had one sitting there he said he pulled, but not sure where it was.
My 72 year old neighbor brought his lt1042 to me to replace the drive belt yesterday. So, I looked online for any and all help that might be out there.
After getting the tie rods out of the way and dropping the PTO with the deck pulley, I could see that the problem getting the belt around the engine pulley was going to be horrific! I loosened the engine mounting bolts, but the holes in the frame were NOT slotted, and I didn't want to mess up the threads on the bolts, so I quickly retightened them. I said to myself, "just quit....this is a two-man job and that's why the shop charges so danged much!" Then I thought about what I'd do if it were mine. I used an unorthodox method which I'll now share with the forum. Using a large punch and ultra heavy hammer, I tapped all three belt-keepers away from the pulley. I then installed the belt and then re-tapped the keepers back into place. If you've got an older machine and cannot spend the dollars or have the back to lift that engine, this is an alternative that worked for me. Cub Cadet should be admonished for this engineering feat of belt-keeper making out of the frame itself!
 

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I don't know if a 1042 is like the MTD yardman step through frame or not but here is me changing the drive belt on my Yardman. There were fingers on the frame that prevented the belt from coming off without dropping the drive pulley. I didn't think of sliding the engine back but it would have saved me having to fight the stuck pulley. http://www.mytractorforum.com/showthread.php?t=241463&highlight=
I removed the PTO bolt with an air ratchet.
Cannon
 

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Should be as easy as removeing the bolts that hold the belt guides on and unplugging the wires from the PTO, be carefull doing this as you do not want to pull the wires out of the PTO.
 

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Should be as easy as removeing the bolts that hold the belt guides on and unplugging the wires from the PTO, be carefull doing this as you do not want to pull the wires out of the PTO.

In my case, there are no bolts........the belt guides are part of the frame.
 

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Had the same problem. Read this on an internet search so it must be good! Pull the spark plug and put a length of rope down the cyl. rotate till the crank stops. I never tried this but the internet can't be wrong!?:thThumbsU
 

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Had the same problem. Read this on an internet search so it must be good! Pull the spark plug and put a length of rope down the cyl. rotate till the crank stops. I never tried this but the internet can't be wrong!?:thThumbsU
Truly, an impact is all you need to remove the PTO....electric or air....your choice.
 

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lol...boy that is a "ole school" trick.....I have done it....just be sure that both valves are closed before you stuff it in there, if it moves on you, pray it doesnt loop itself around open valve....then I have heard guys who burn the rope out then...lol that must be a yuck-yuck.......:)
 

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Oh no! It's the manual Police again! :)

Run for cover!

The guys just wants advice on how to fix something. Can't we just HELP him?

Hopefully someone will do this job and post pics and instructions.

Otherwise, what's the purpose for having a website like this? Seems kinda counter-productive for the site to always answer............READ YOUR MANUAL.

Why don't we just close all these Forums and have the site home page just state simply:

"It's in your manual". :lalala:

With all that said, the service manual should cover the procedure and yes, that is a good option to consider.
Hey Diesel Nut! Have not seen you around these parts for awhile - Welcome back!
 
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