This procedure takes about 2 hours with replacement coil on hand (Recycling vendor contact at end of post). Replacing the coil in the PTO is necessary when the PTO coil degenerates into a dead short in the electrical system, end result, blowing the fuse on the PTO circuit, and the machine says, no cut,no grass,no more. The coil itself is a controlled near short to form a magnetic field that engages the magnetic clutch, (which in turn, turns the PTO). In most cases only the coil needs to be replaced, not the entire clutch, which can cost a small fortune if you can find it..
After you take the hood off, sometimes side panels you will get down to the meat of the problem, the clutch itself. Remove 4 bolts that hold clutch shroud and remove. Unbolt pulley from shaft and slide off. (Older machines may require puller), now we are down to the last piece of the inside part of the clutch (which slides on the woodruff key to engage clutch) "when it is turned on". Slide it off the shaft, now we have reached the root of the problem, (one fride coil).
Remove the 4 studs and remove coil. One has to stop and think why this coil is mounted directly to the transferring heat from the block with no stand off, not good design, but there is nothing we can do to change this as the tolerances are too tight to rectify this problem, moving on.
We take the new coil, and using a Snowman trick to center it, because the holes are bigger than the studs that mount/center it. We take O rings and put them on the top two studs and center the coil to the shaft.
After the top two studs are hand tight, and clutch is centered to the block, install bottom studs and tighten with rachet. Then take out top two studs, take off o-rings, reinstall and rachet tight, now coil is installed.
Slide on first part of clutch over coil and spin to check for any rubbs, then slide on pulley and bolt to shaft.
Add four springs to studs then install outer shroud over pulley leaving about a 1/8 heavy inch between the shroud and the pulley. (look at bolts for gap)
Attach wire from coil to tractor, and get busy cutting the grass, you are done.
After you take the hood off, sometimes side panels you will get down to the meat of the problem, the clutch itself. Remove 4 bolts that hold clutch shroud and remove. Unbolt pulley from shaft and slide off. (Older machines may require puller), now we are down to the last piece of the inside part of the clutch (which slides on the woodruff key to engage clutch) "when it is turned on". Slide it off the shaft, now we have reached the root of the problem, (one fride coil).
Remove the 4 studs and remove coil. One has to stop and think why this coil is mounted directly to the transferring heat from the block with no stand off, not good design, but there is nothing we can do to change this as the tolerances are too tight to rectify this problem, moving on.
We take the new coil, and using a Snowman trick to center it, because the holes are bigger than the studs that mount/center it. We take O rings and put them on the top two studs and center the coil to the shaft.
After the top two studs are hand tight, and clutch is centered to the block, install bottom studs and tighten with rachet. Then take out top two studs, take off o-rings, reinstall and rachet tight, now coil is installed.
Slide on first part of clutch over coil and spin to check for any rubbs, then slide on pulley and bolt to shaft.
Add four springs to studs then install outer shroud over pulley leaving about a 1/8 heavy inch between the shroud and the pulley. (look at bolts for gap)
Attach wire from coil to tractor, and get busy cutting the grass, you are done.