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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 200 Series Case which I would like to replace the axle seals, (Part # 31945). It appears I need to remove the axles and put the seal in the housing and then put the axle back in through the seal. If that is correct, how do I get the axles out. There is a whole lot of stuff inside there and I was hoping the axels would remove simply.

Thanks :banghead3
 

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It's not as simple as you would like it to be but it's not as bad as what you think it will be when I tell you what's involved.

The short version is this. You have drop the entire trans-axle from the tractor and dismantle the whole unit.


In order to do that, you need to

- remove both fenders
- remove the seat mount and tool box
- remove the rear panel
- remove the front panel
- undo the fuel tank straps
- remove the fuel hose from the carb
- pull the tank and fuel hose
- jack the tractor in the air and support the FRAME with proper jackstands
- remove the rear wheels
- drain the oil out of the trans-axle
- remove the steel lines that go between the travel valve and the drive motor
- disconnect the emergency brake
- support the trans-axle with a floor jack
- remove the rest of the LARGE bolts that hold the frame to the trans-axle
- get someone to support the drive motor as you lower the floor jack
- put all the large bolts back into their holes temporarily
- wash the top of the trans-axle off with solvent to get rid of all grease and dirt
- now remove all the large bolts again plus all the small ones
- take off the top cover
- remove the clips that hold the axles in place and pull the axles.


At this point, you need to make a decision as to how far you want to go with this. I look at it this way. I only want to do this job once in my lifetime if I can help it. Seals often fail because the axle bushings are worn. I remove the drive motor, drive out the shaft that supports the emergency brake drum, remove the carrier assembly and then drive out the axle bushings and seals.

Remove the brake drum shaft seal and the shifter seal.

Purchase 4 new bolts for the carrier, install them one at a time the opposite way they are now and torque them down properly. Take the carrier to a welder who knows what he's doing and have him put one inch of weld along the seam between the two carrier halves on both sides.

Install the new axle bushings and seals.

Wash the inside of the trans-axle housing clean

Install the new brake shaft seal and shift lever seal.

Put the carrier back into the housing and install the shift lever, brake shaft and drive motor. Install both axles with a bit of grease on the area where the seals make contact and put the clips back on.

Purchase a new fuel line because old fuel lines can give you trouble you don't want to have and since you already have it out, why not?

Install the trans-axle and everything else. Double-check the tightness of all bolts. Put the correct amount of motor oil in the trans-axle and you are done.

There's a Service Manual to help you with this project. It's located in one of the stickies at the top of THIS forum's main page.

Simple, huh? :fing32::hide::D:D:D:D:D
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks. I already have the transaxle out and the cover off. So it appears I need to remove the snap rings and pull out the axle. I also located the manual at the top of this forum.

I really appreciate your response. Especially the advice to also replace the bushings. Good idea and I will follow the suggestion. Thanks again..:thanku:
 

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Member bhildret here at MTF can sell you all the needed parts and ship them to you by mail. I don't know where you were intending to buy parts but some "dealers" have been known to really gouge customers. At the very least, send Brian a PM and let him quote you on the parts so you have a benchmark.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I have purchased parts from him before. I sent him an email shortly after your first response and will be getting the items from him after I decide what all I need. Thanks for all the advice and help.
 

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Castoff, (or anybody else): I've worked on a lot of these but never had the need to replace the bushings. But I'm going to open up my loader, 644 soon and expect it to need them.

Do they require reaming after install? If so, do you have a good source for the right size reamer?
 

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They have always fit the axle shafts without any reaming for me. I have some machine shop friends that I could borrow one from if I needed it.

For sure, it's possible for old seals to leak from age issues but since the bushings are not all that expensive to buy and you're already in there, why not replace them just to make sure that you never have a leaky seal issue for the next 30 years or so?

To me, it's worth it for the insurance that preventative maintenance of that kind brings but others are free to choose their own path.
 
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