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What's the easiest way to get the starter clutch off of a L Model. Don't want to take the head off to block the piston.
Thanks
 

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What's the easiest way to get the starter clutch off of a L Model. Don't want to take the head off to block the piston.
Thanks
Pull the spark plug and push rope into the cylinder.
 

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Did what Gravely-Power suggested years ago and it worked. However ended up having to use a wrench and cheater bar. Regular force on the cheater bar would not break it loose. Tried heating, PB Blaster - nothing. Then my neighbor who happens to be a mechanic and weighs North of 300 Lbs. stood on the cheater bar. That broke it loose. Turns out the threads had galled at end the journal. Hope yours comes off easier.
 

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If all else fails, I have the special socket for and impact wrench and I live in North East Ohio.

An impact wrench will knock it off in a heartbeat and you do not have to lock anything.

If you have a six point impact socket big enough to fit over the drive nut, you might try two shims along side of the drive nut flats, something that fits into the socket to take up the slack. You shim a larger socket to catch only the two flats. I forgot what size socket was needed to fit and I do not rember how thick the shims should be. It would have to be a six point, not a twelve point socket.

Roger,
 

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I take off the Belt and put a Chain Grip Vise Grip around the Belt Pulley and then use a Wrench on the Clutch.:fing32:
 

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I drop rope in through the spark plug hole as suggested. Then my 125 lbs jumps on the 15/16" wrench and so far they've all come loose.
 

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Don't forget to take the locking bolt off first. That is the hex bolt in the center.
 

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A 1 1/8 socket is the smallest you can fit over the oblong hub nut, but the two flats of the nut measure 15/16"

15/16" = .937
1 1/8" = 1.125

1.125 - .937 = .188
.188/2 = .094

3/32" = .0938

So you need two small 3/32" shims to fit inside the two flats of a 1 1/8 six point socket, that will reduce two flats down to fit the hub nut.

Roger,
 

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I have one of those Ron, and they are well made. They are heat treated and/or hardened, they hold up to an impact wrench.

I also have someone's earlier model with the oblong profile cutout, but that socket was not heat treated, it shows the abuse of an impact wrench.

I have never tried the shim trick in a six point 1 1/8 socket, but I think it would work. Hey does Harbor Freight sell impact sockets in that size? Which would be cheaper? ;-)

Roger,
 

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I bought one of these from Cogan Valley Machine. Put it on a 1/2" impact wrench and and removing starter clutches becomes a 10 second job.
I second this idea, but a couple of people I talked with about this procedure mentioned their concern over throwing the flywheel halves out of alignment, given the high/sharp torque involved. I'm not certain if that would occur or not....
 

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I got it Thanks. Took a 1-1/8" socket and 2 pieces of 3/32" shims stock and super glued them in the socket hit the impact and it is OFF!!!
:trink40::trink40::trink40::trink40::trink40:
 

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I second this idea, but a couple of people I talked with about this procedure mentioned their concern over throwing the flywheel halves out of alignment,
I would not be concerned at all. Now if a 1" drive impact was being used, then maybe. Hitting a wrench with a 1 lb hammer would be worse than a 1/2" impact wrench.
 

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Do yourself a favor, -or the next owner of your machine: When you re-install the starter clutch, put a thin, soft copper washer behind it. (A spark plug washer will also work in a pinch.) This will help the clutch break loose much easier next time.
 
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