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Discussion Starter #1
I want to transport a agri-power 5000 from NC to NM, 1800 miles.

I got my neighbor where the tractor is to look at the tag. It's a 1985 agri-power 5000 which I think translates into a zetor 5011.

Weight on the tag on the tractor in question is 4762 but I don't think that includes the 250lb per side tire weights, or any of the added fluids. Or the front loader. I want to keep the trailer size down to 16' and 7000lb gvwr

Trailer want to buy is 1150lb 16' (aluma) flat bed. 77.5"x192" 2 3500lb axles.

Tractor is 12' long without the bucket so I should be able to position it correctly to balance the load.

Want to take as much weight off the trailer as possible cause I have a partner that is going to be traveling behind me in a second truck . So I can put some of the implements and weights and buckets and so forth in the second pickup truck.

Want to remove the weights off of the rear tires. Bucket off the front, and remove the 400lbs ballast from the tires.

Any advice on how difficult this might be and the types of tools I will need would be really helpful!!!

My friend want's me to go with a larger wider 20' trailer with 2 5000lb axles which will cost me $1500 dollars more and weighs 400lbs more. 1550lbs.

His logic is sound I guess. If I go over the weight limit and bust a spring or bend an axle I'll be screwed. I just don't see this being a problem if I can remove the bucket, ballast, and weights. His argument is we will run into glitches why not just lug the unnecessary extra 400lb of ballast 1800 miles and leave the bucket and possibly weights also attached to the tractor.

If I had a diesel truck I wouldn't be so concerned about this. I am running a 2014 ram 1500 with a 5.7 liter hemi, 8 speed tranny and 323 rear end gear.

And I don't want the larger trailer. The 16' trailer would suit all my future needs much better.

Advice? thanks
 

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Gravel pits have weigh scales. Drop the bucket (leaving the arms on the tractor) and the wheel weights, load the tractor (with the liquid ballast in the tires) on the trailer and get the combination truck and trailer weighed. While there, drop the trailer and get the truck weighed. That will give you the loaded weight of the trailer. Then you can decide if you also want the loader arms off to lighten the trailer's load.

Personally, I'd remove the hood, fenders, seat, battery, and 3PH arms before I'd drain the tires.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Tudor!
Great advice getting it weighed. What would be some of your arguments for leaving the liquid ballast in the tires?
 

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Thanks Tudor!

Great advice getting it weighed. What would be some of your arguments for leaving the liquid ballast in the tires?
Do you know what liquid is in the tires? Some liquids are nasty stuff I would find some other way to reduce the weight.

Doug

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Discussion Starter #5
Do you know what liquid is in the tires? Some liquids are nasty stuff I would find some other way to reduce the weight.

Doug

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My best guess is antifreeze? I have some 55 gallon drums I planned on putting it into. I'm just thinking if I don't remove it I will not have much of a margin for error. My estimate is maybe 300lbs with it in the tires and 700lbs without. I could even take it in the drubs back to nm possibly in one of the two trucks.

That or a recycler. I definitely wouldn't dump it on the ground.
 

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Is this a one time move, or will you be hauling this tractor again? I would likely buy the bigger trailer either way, especially if you will be hauling this again. If the cost is an issue, you can always switch to a steel trailer. Can you compromise at an 18 foot trailer? Many who have bought a 16 footer soon wished they had gone longer. I have heard very few complaints about anyone having a trailer that is too big.
 

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Thanks Tudor!
Great advice getting it weighed. What would be some of your arguments for leaving the liquid ballast in the tires?
- You will want to use the loader at the other end of your journey.

- At some point you will need the liquid ballast.

- It takes time and effort to drain and more time and effort to refill tires.

- Handling liquid ballast in containers also takes time and effort.

I have tended to think in terms of less physical effort since I injured my back at work 40 years ago. My loader has been the first line of back protection since that time and I would want it functional at both ends of a trip to handle anything that needs more effort than I can exert, such as your 250 lb wheel weights. Adding a 400 lb drum of liquid ballast to the items that need to be off loaded by equipment doesn't make sense if it can be left in place and still meet your weight limitations.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
- You will want to use the loader at the other end of your journey.

- At some point you will need the liquid ballast.

- It takes time and effort to drain and more time and effort to refill tires.

- Handling liquid ballast in containers also takes time and effort.

I have tended to think in terms of less physical effort since I injured my back at work 40 years ago. My loader has been the first line of back protection since that time and I would want it functional at both ends of a trip to handle anything that needs more effort than I can exert, such as your 250 lb wheel weights. Adding a 400 lb drum of liquid ballast to the items that need to be off loaded by equipment doesn't make sense if it can be left in place and still meet your weight limitations.
All good points. I suppose I could at least weigh it before I decide what needs to be done.
Thanks again Tudor!
 

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This sounds like it has the makings of a giant disaster looking for a place to happen. You want to spend a couple days on each end of the trip disassembling your tractor and then reassembling it a few days later, not to mention what you may have to spend to load and unload the "spare parts" for the trip. How big is the second truck? Will it be able to legally haul the weights and the ballast as well as the loader? What will
happen if the loader doesn't come apart and off easily? It's had 35 years to rust into place. And you want to do this 1800 miles from home, where you likely won't have access to all the tools you are going to need to do this, so you're going to have to rent or buy some more.

I'd buy the bigger trailer or alternately, skip buying a trailer and use the money to pay a hauler to move it for you.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
How big is the second truck? Will it be able to legally haul the weights and the ballast as well as the loader? What will
happen if the loader doesn't come apart and off easily? It's had 35 years to rust into place. And you want to do this 1800 miles from home, where you likely won't have access to all the tools you are going to need to do this, so you're going to have to rent or buy some more.

I'd buy the bigger trailer or alternately, skip buying a trailer and use the money to pay a hauler to move it for you.

I probably should have mentioned the tractors at my dad's house. He passed away. The house is probably going to be sold. There are still tools there, I can use the neighbors air compressor and borrow tools. And we have a place to stay for a night or two if need be.

There are already a couple of empty 55 gallon drums on the property. I can leave them there, take them with me, or to a recycler.

Second truck is a 2012 ram 1500 capable of handling bucket, ballast, plow, and grader. If I can fit them all in the bed. As long as it doesn't come in at more than 1750lbs. Which I don't think it will.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Is this a one time move, or will you be hauling this tractor again? I would likely buy the bigger trailer either way, especially if you will be hauling this again. If the cost is an issue, you can always switch to a steel trailer. Can you compromise at an 18 foot trailer? Many who have bought a 16 footer soon wished they had gone longer. I have heard very few complaints about anyone having a trailer that is too big.
My concern is a longer trailer has the same 7k gross weight limit which takes away from it's payload capacity. And I can't think of any reason why I would want longer than 16'.
 

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LOnger trailers are nice now and then, but a 16 footer should handle most jobs, and if it costs less and has a higher payload capacity I think I agree with you that it makes more sense than the big one does.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
LOnger trailers are nice now and then, but a 16 footer should handle most jobs, and if it costs less and has a higher payload capacity I think I agree with you that it makes more sense than the big one does.
Thanks kklowell
I can go with 20' with two 5100lbs axles which would solve my weight issue. But that would of course cost more, be 400lbs heavier, and less suitable for my future needs. Where while I would like the 5k axles, on the 16' trailer, don't have the time to special order, and they are 2k more according to one dealer.

From what I understand you can't just swap out axles. The mounting points are different.
 

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We all have different needs and the vehicle's we chose to drive dictates the weight that can be pulled more than the trailer that can be purchased. I do not know what your max gross vehicle weight is but any competent trailer company can tell you. I would be really surprised if you could even pull the 7000 lb. axle weight trailer loaded safely with the 1500. Also why buy the extra capacity if not willing to buy the extra licensed weight to pull it.
 

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We all have different needs and the vehicle's we chose to drive dictates the weight that can be pulled more than the trailer that can be purchased. I do not know what your max gross vehicle weight is but any competent trailer company can tell you. I would be really surprised if you could even pull the 7000 lb. axle weight trailer loaded safely with the 1500. Also why buy the extra capacity if not willing to buy the extra licensed weight to pull it.
The 2014 ram 1500 with the 5.7 liter hemi, 8 speed tranny, and 323 gear is rated around 8700 I think when I looked it up. It's a long trip though so I would prefer to come in way under that.

Another thing to consider is the 10k gvwr 400lbs heavier trailer and the 4 to 800lbs of ballast will add considerably to my total weight. Maybe as much as 1200lbs. Which will put more wear and tear on my vehicle and make it harder to control should I get into a dangerous situation like slippery roads, poor visibility, or somebody suddenly stomping on their brakes in front of me.

If I had a heavier ram 2500 with a more robust drive train and most importantly braking capacity, I would not have nearly as much of an issue with the weight and would opt for the heavier trailer and leaving the added ballast in the tractor tires.

But I don't.
 

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The 2014 ram 1500 with the 5.7 liter hemi, 8 speed tranny, and 323 gear is rated around 8700 I think when I looked it up. It's a long trip though so I would prefer to come in way under that.
Gross vehicle weight (GVW) is the truck plus payload (including passengers).

Gross combined vehicle weight (GCVW) is truck and payload, plus trailer and payload.

That's why I suggested weighing the combination.

Estimated weights.

First truck:

Truck ..................... - 4500 lb
Payload .................... - 500 lb (Driver, passenger, suitcase, tools, etc.)
Trailer .................... - 1100 lb
Tractor (Base weight) - 4600 lb

Total .................... - 10700 lb

Second truck:

Truck ..................... - 4500 lb
............................................. Driver and accessories - 500 lb
............................................. Wheel weights .......... - 500 lb
............................................. Loader and bucket .... - 700 lb
............................................. Barrel of liquid ballast - 400 lb
Payload ................. - 2100 lb

Total ..................... - 6600 lb

Note that the difference between estimated and actual weight could easily be several hundred pounds to your negative benefit.

You may have a problem or two. My G20 Chevy van weighed 5400 lb w/driver and assorted tools, tie downs, and jacks. GVW was 6600 lb, GCVW was 9900 lb. A G20 (3/4 ton) van is the same as a G10 (1/2 ton) van with suspension and engine upgrades, and a few creature comfort options thrown in for good measure. Just the gas in the tank weighed 198 lb when full. If you had to cross the DOT weigh scales, you wanted an empty tank if you were close to the limit.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Gross vehicle weight (GVW) is the truck plus payload (including passengers).

Gross combined vehicle weight (GCVW) is truck and payload, plus trailer and payload.

That's why I suggested weighing the combination.

Estimated weights.

First truck:

Truck ..................... - 4500 lb
Payload .................... - 500 lb (Driver, passenger, suitcase, tools, etc.)
Trailer .................... - 1100 lb
Tractor (Base weight) - 4600 lb

Total .................... - 10700 lb

Second truck:

Truck ..................... - 4500 lb
............................................. Driver and accessories - 500 lb
............................................. Wheel weights .......... - 500 lb
............................................. Loader and bucket .... - 700 lb
............................................. Barrel of liquid ballast - 400 lb
Payload ................. - 2100 lb

Total ..................... - 6600 lb

Note that the difference between estimated and actual weight could easily be several hundred pounds to your negative benefit.

You may have a problem or two. My G20 Chevy van weighed 5400 lb w/driver and assorted tools, tie downs, and jacks. GVW was 6600 lb, GCVW was 9900 lb. A G20 (3/4 ton) van is the same as a G10 (1/2 ton) van with suspension and engine upgrades, and a few creature comfort options thrown in for good measure. Just the gas in the tank weighed 198 lb when full. If you had to cross the DOT weigh scales, you wanted an empty tank if you were close to the limit.
Guess I'm not taking the ballast.
I did read the stuff is extremely corrosive if it get's out of the tubes and there is a high likelihood that will happen where I am going to be using the tractor cause we have mesquite thorns out here that go through tires like their butter.

As far as towing capacity it is based from the reading I have done and my understanding largely on the drive train component's. Tranny, rear end gear, engine.

3.6L PENTASTAR V6 Engine with eTorque: The Ram 1500, when equipped with the Ram 1500 V6 engine, can tow a maximum of 7,730 pounds. 5.7L HEMI V8 Engine: The 2019 Ram towing capacity reaches a maximum of 11,610 pounds with the 5.7L HEMI V8 engine.Sep 7, 2018
 

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Without knowing actual weights and the package your truck is there is no way for any of us to tell you one way or the other. But I would say if your truck did not come with or does not have a tow package installed you need not even buy a trailer. The bumper hitch does not qualify for what you are wanting to do and without trailer brakes it would be simply crazy.
 

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It makes more sense now, still a lot of work tho.

The tires are likely filled with Calcium Chloride which is corrosive to metal but that's about it. Your local Dept. of Highways would use it for dust control on dirt roads in the summer and to help thaw out frozen pipes in the winter.
 

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It makes more sense now, still a lot of work tho.

The tires are likely filled with Calcium Chloride which is corrosive to metal but that's about it. Your local Dept. of Highways would use it for dust control on dirt roads in the summer and to help thaw out frozen pipes in the winter.
Road salt for melting snow and ice on the roads. Keeps body shops in business. It is also a herbicide if you have weeds growing in your gravel drive or walkways.

It will rust out GT rims in about 12 years when used as ballast. (Practical experience!)
 
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