[TheSaturnV]

Thought I would start a thread with a more up to date title. What began here with my purchase of a used Massey Ferguson 2925 (Legacy):

http://www.mytractorforum.com/16-simplicity-allis-chalmers-forum/797129-new-me-legacy-mf-fel.html

I will attempt to refurbish this machine in this thread, refer to the above thread to see the engine work and everything else done so far. As the Legacy series now hits the 10+ years old mark, I hope this will help those of us who have bought these fantastic, although sometimes tired machines.

The plan was simple, and I even said to my wife on the way out to the shop, "Well, I'll slap this new seat on and I guess that's about it!"

Yeah right.

Two hours later and the wheels came off, literally. As did the ROPS, fender pan and lots of other hardware. Below is a quick rundown of what I found, courtesy of some of the worst wrenching (or lack thereof) I've ever witnessed. I'll let you figure what caption goes with what pic:

• Now that the seat was off, I wanted to see under the fender pan for some reason

• Decided to take RH wheel off for better access to shift levers, etc

• Transmission and axles sure look heavy duty, wish it wasn't leaking. I just put the fluid level right a few days ago

• ROPS had to come off to get the fender pan off, now I'm in deep

• Fender pan off, things went downhill

• Return hydraulic line was sitting against the edge of the floor pan. The vibration/sawing effect has cut through the metal band, and had a good head start on the hose itself. Good thing it's the low pressure line.

• Problem was solved in 10 seconds with a wrench, correcting its route, but the damage has been done. We will see if the new hose clamp I added will stop the leak.

 

[TheSaturnV]

Continued ...


• The right hand hydro pump relief valve button was completely stuck. Some PB Blaster and a small brass hammer got it freed up. I was surprised these are manual. How do they get actuated?

• Saved the worst for last: Found the source of the transmission leak. Something hit the case pretty hard, leaving 3 main strike points. The result is a seeping crack that I couldn't even see until I stuck some tissue on the area. It's not very big, but the amount of fluid being lost is enough that it must be taken care of. I'm not a fan of JB Weld, but since the crack/pinhole is so small and the aluminum surface is so rough, I think I'll give it a try.

To be continued...

 

[Andy]

If the jb weld doesn't work for you there is a product I think called alumaloy which comes like welding rod and all you use is a propane torch. Or maybe if you didn't want to try that you might be able to get away with using flex seal.
Just a thought.

 

[Talntedmrgreen]

Ouch!

 

[TheSaturnV]

Update.

The rear end patch went well, but it has not held 100%.

• If I had to put a number, I'd say it's holding 98.5%. At this point it's just barely weeping out, and over the course of the weekend hasn't even put out enough to make a trickle. I think I'll try a follow up application to see if it will stop it altogether.

• Found my ancient jug of rubbing compound. It's got a mean grit, and you can do some damage. Slow speed machine buffing with a wool pad brought the red back and removed enough scratches that I won't need to repaint.

• The under deck areas cleaned up very nice. Greased everything that moves, and put down new tape to contain wiring and fuel lines.

That's all for now. The more I work on this machine, the more impressed I am. Now when I hear someone say "They don't make'm like they used to," I will have a different opinion on the subject.

 

[Talntedmrgreen]

Goodness gracious! I'm thinking I need to buff mine out now!

 

[Fcubman]

Good work!

When you consider what these cost new, the quality should be there!

I am still impressed with my Conquest. It hurt the wallet when I bought it, but it's been well worth it over the years.

 

[TheSaturnV]

When you consider what these cost new, the quality should be there!

Agreed.

That's why the time and money I've spent bringing it back up have been a no-brainer. It's only after the fact that I'm realizing how rare Simplicity tractors are in my area, much less the MF branded ones. I get a kick out of the branding, because my pops exclusively used Masseys when he graded lots for new homes and small businesses.

I could spend a whole lot more and still be in it dirt cheap.

:fing32:

 

[Barbosa]

Goodness gracious! I'm thinking I need to buff mine out now!

:ditto: :fing32:

 

[TheSaturnV]

If I hadn't had to fool with the ROPs, it's one of the easier fender pans I've ever removed. I wouldn't go to all the trouble stripping the pan off and all the grab handles, etc. just for a routine wax, but I got out the Makita buffer, compound, then finished off with swirl remover. Much easier to remove a few obstacles rather than tape off or accidentally burn the plastic with the buffer. It's a tractor, but part of getting long life out of the equipment is keeping the body rust free as well, and a good polish/wax really helps repel the dirt and water.

 

[huffy]

I might be remembering incorrectly, but I seem to recall that the Legacy uses the same transmission as the Sunstars/Deutz Ultimas. If so, and if you're interested, there's a replacement housing available on eBay right now (not mine, I promise) for $65.00 including shipping. Not sure if you wanna spend that much to fix your leak and solve the cracks for good, but just thought I'd throw it out there.

Simplicity Sunstar Deutz Allis 1920 Transmission Housing 770073 | eBay

 

[TheSaturnV]

Hadn't even thought about a replacement casing, thanks very much for posting that. I have no idea what all would be involved with swapping the innards over. I haven't tried the second patch yet, but I will see if that does anything. As-is, the leak is so slight I'm willing to put up with it. There's also the option of the Alumaloy rods or even a motorcycle shop set up to aluminum weld. Just needs a 2-second zap.

Thanks again for that auction find, I really appreciate it.

 

[huffy]

It's a very nice machine. I have a Legacy, and they are definitely work horses.

 

[glenn27]

I like how you have gone thru and familiarized yourself with the machine--and then went to work on the 'pickins' -as I call them--the little do-dads that need attention. Good job...

Keep the info coming--this is an interesting thread--just because you don't see many of them--at least in my area-
:thanku:

glenn

 

[TheSaturnV]

Thank you sir, just some good old fashioned TLC and elbow grease.

 

[92GA]

If you try the aluminum rods make sure the housing is very clean. They do have a low melting point. I seen a guy use some of those to fix a hand rail where I used to work. Came out nice after he sanded it down.