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Discussion Starter #621
I am also a fan of Chassis Saver and will use it on the main frame when I get to it. All the major components of the backhoe and tractor were undercoated with CS before the JD green was sprayed. I cut with S8 reducer and apply with a paint spray gun. The only problem with it is once the can is open - you better use it all in a very short time (days) or it solidifies.

When I put this gallon can away I used a plastic film laid on top of the paint to seal from air, then used their plastic ring to seal that. When I went to use it again about 12 days later this is what it looked like. I only used less than 1/4 of it to spray all the backhoe parts plus the tractor main deck and side covers. Far less than I thought. That's why a pint costs $20, quart $45 and a gallon is $100.

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The trick is, once a can is opened, and you are done playing, pour a layer of mineral spirits (I think it was) on top. Make sure it STAYS on top, don't mix it in. Idea is to prevent the air from getting to the surface of the paint..... Actually works fairly well.
 

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Discussion Starter #623
Made some progress - and have a setback.

Got all the pivot pins installed, a couple are temporary. This allowed me to look at how everything lined up. Already knew the right lift arm was wango (technical term), but much of this machine showed signs of overworking it. I shimmed the left side cylinder arm to limit it's movement on the bucket, but left enough for lifting adjustment to the bucket if it was crooked.

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I found the right side original cylinder mount had been squeezed together, which put more slop in the whole arm movement, so rummaged around in my hardware and came up with two bushings the exact size needed to use as a spacer. It also functioned as a support buttress against the mount flanges so the bolt couldn't hog-out the hole more than it already was from moving around.

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Discussion Starter #624
Now I was able to tighten the staking pin solidly, which aligned the whole bracket. I left the right side bucket mount alone so when the lift arms were raised I could see how much movement it had, shim appropriately and take as much slop out of the whole thing when articulated.

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I was General Manager of an Aerospace parts distributor in one of my previous lives. After assuming management I had a wall-to-wall inventory run on the warehouse which found over $300,000 of dead inventory. That's an aerospace term for hardware and parts which do not have certs for one reason or another and can't be sold. Some of it was ancient, but the rest was a mix of mostly hardware where no one knew what happened to the certs. Federal law bars the sale of non-cert hardware due to a huge scandal of unscrupulouos suppliers who gathered used parts, counterfeit and non-aerospace grade parts and provided fake certs. Now, if a company doesn't have certs they must destroy the parts using specialized companies and get a certificate of destruction. You can't resell as ordinary hardware. A bunch of that hardware somehow ended up in the trunk of my car....then magically appeared in my shop. LOTS of high grade bolts in large sizes, washers, spacers, shims, nuts, pins, and about everything you can think of. You can see them all over this tractor and a few of those bolts used as pivot pins on the FEL. Wish I would have made two trips....

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Discussion Starter #625 (Edited)
Installed the final fittings on the FEL reservoir and 'modified' the stock screen filter. Cut the plugged up screen mesh and stripped it off. Ran the skeleton through the sonic cleaner and installed with new fittings for the return hose to the filter. Bolted on the FEL control valve and tightened everything up.

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You can see how the right arm goes out to the left from the main mount. It appears the main mount on that side was hit or somehow pressed inward a tad, which made the arm angled to the left towards the bucket. I would have to take that to my friend and use hydraulic former to straighten it out, which I really don't want to do. We shall see how it operates.

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Sure are making progress. Nice to see it moving along again.
 

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Discussion Starter #627 (Edited)
After getting everything tightened up and double checked - the moment of truth had arrived. Arden filled the reservoir while I went over the PTO belt/lever adjustment, pump and fittings.

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I primed the feed hose going to the pump so it would have a good start at sucking up from the reservoir to the filter. Started the engine, engaged the PTO and waited a bit for things to settle in. First attempt to lift got burble out of the tank and bit of shudder. then the arm tried to raise up. We then worked the bucket lever and got it to tilt back and forth a bit - so decided to move the rig outside on it's own power while the FEL was off the ground.

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Once outside we worked the cylinders to get fluid moving and sprung a few leaks. After those were addressed Arden topped off the reservoir and went back to the lift cylinders. We worked them in and out until it lifted the bucket up to full height.

Woooooo Whoooooo! 😁

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However..... the arm started stuttering a bit so we dropped it down. We turned to the backhoe and while I pushed it up Arden unhooked the chains. The controls were manipulated, but no movement. It appeared there wasn't much pressure, if any. So we went back to the FEL and now it wouldn't raise at all. 🤬

We tried everything... went through all the controls and found the FEL arm control pushed up too far and would get stuck. Had to hit it fairly hard to knock it back. Felt like it had pushed passed some obsticle and hung up on it. It also didn't feel like there was any pressure in the line. I removed the HP hose from the pump at the FEL control and pointed it into a big tub, engaged the PTO and ..... after a long lag it started spitting out fluid and finally got a good, solid stream. hooked it back up - nuth'n. Took it off again and this time it took a bit longer before fluid came out so let it run for a few seconds with a solid stream. Refilled the tank, hooked it back up - nuth'n. 🤬🤬

It was getting late and about to rain so we chained the BH back up and put down a piece of plywood on the gravel drive so the bucket would slide into the garage - in it went. One thing to note: the fluid was REALLY dirty. Very cloudy with particles. We checked to make sure the filter wasn't clogged and tried one more time in the garage - nuth'n. 🤬🤬🤬

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We then ran through a number of tests trying to determine if it was the pump or the valve which wasn't working. It leaned towards the pump, but we also knew the valve was funky. Gave up for the day and Arden went home. I owe him a trip to our favorite sushi joint when they open again.
 

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Discussion Starter #628 (Edited by Moderator)
This morning I went out and rigged up a coupler to bypass the FEL control so the pump was only running the BH. I figured it would tell me if it was the FEL valve or the pump that failed. If the BH worked - it was the FEL control valve.

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I am sorry to report the BH wouldn't operate. In fact, the HP hose from the pump felt limp, where I would think it would have stiffened up when the pump ran. I hate it when things go flaccid....:rolleyes:

I tried everything I could think of, but the BH was obviously not getting any fluid pressure.

TUDOR! Did I somehow blow up the brand new pump? What is going on with this thing? What else can I do to test it?
 

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Discussion Starter #629 (Edited by Moderator)
SIDE NOTE: Corona Virus safety
I want everyone to know my friends and I are VERY conscious of spreading the virus infection. I live a few miles from the nations first ground zero in Washington State. From day one I have taken this thing seriously and practice all precautions. I wear a mask when out, wear gloves when in high traffic areas like grocery stores and have a small 70% alcohol solution squirt bottle in the car.

I'm dumbfounded by the number of people who still think this is just a nasty flu - or worse, that wearing a mask and social distancing is some kind of frack'n political statement. This virus doesn't give a crap who you voted for.

I'm retired and live in a somewhat rural area so isolating myself is sort of normal. I make FAR fewer trips out and only for things needed and work from a list. Arden is with Microsoft and has been working remote from home for several months now. His kids are grown and also has limited contact with the outside. WE BOTH have high quality and very effective masks equivalent to N99 or .1 micron filters. We don't wear them when together because of this. Yes, there's still a risk, but much smaller because we know each others stringent precautions.

I have many friends in Arizona and a month ago warned them the politics of that state was a recipe for disaster. They heeded my advice and bought good masks, which proved to be perfect timing. Because most of the people there think this is a big hype by Fake News they ignore all the science of the world. Now we are seeing the results. It's horrifying that most of it was preventable. I don't want to turn this into a political debate so please don't make it one. I just want people to be safe. End of rant.

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Nice mask. :)

As for Covid, doesn't really matter what we do, we are still going to end up with a bunch of dead people. (and no, political party simply doesn't enter into the equation here.) The measures various government entities have put into place aren't to prevent infection, they are to slow infection. They simply didn't want to run out of hospital space right away, and end up with a slew of bodies all at once. The current measures might save a few lives, but, I suspect that is going to be a small percentage of the overall toll this disease is going to take. It is getting to the point where we have a choice, watch infection rates climb, or watch our economy crumble.....

I live out in the sticks, only work part time, don't generally deal with the public in any event, and spend most of my time doing things at home anyway, so, none of the measures really affected my life all that much. Some things are getting harder to find, and I REALLY didn't miss the traffic. :) But, I think this is a problem we are going to be dealing with for at least another couple years. Lets just hope we all survive, and our economy does as well.

Can you put a pressure gauge on there somewhere, with the system installed as it should be for operation? I am REAL curious why a new pump isn't providing any pressure at all...... Is there a screen on the intake side of the line, in the reservoir that's plugged up??
 

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Check the pump rotation direction and confitm the location of the supply and discharge lines on the pump. Some pumps don't work if spun in the wrong direction.

Also, check for leaks in the pump supply line. It is under negative pressure when the pump is operating and air can get in where fluid may not leak out when the pump is at rest.

Using a gauge to check pressures is a good idea, but sorta redundant when flow hasn't been established..

The arm lift control for the FEL includes a float position with a detent to hold the spool in that position. It's effectively s 4-position valve, lower, neutral, raise, and float. The float position connects both ends of the lift cylinders with the valve return flow..

You did flush the reservoir before filling, right?
 

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Discussion Starter #632
You had me at rotation..... The pump spec is CW, however, which way do you look at it?
  • If I am standing in front of the tractor looking at engine and pump - both are CCW
  • If I'm looking at the engine and pump from the seat of the tractor - both are CW
  • The hoses are new and clamped - no leaks. They match the IN and OUT on the pump.
  • I will look inside the FEL control valve again just to be sure nothing is amiss. A really hard whack is needed to disengage the float position.
  • I thoroughly cleaned the reservoir tower when it was off. The in/out was plugged and about 2 quarts of kerosene put in. then let it sit for a day, sloshed around, flipped over, sit again. Repeated several times. When both in and out was off I could shine a light and clearly see the bottom of the tank - which was spotless.
Side Note: there is NO divider or baffle in the reservoir to deflect incoming oil from going directly to the outlet for circulation. The photo is looking through the OUT or feed to the pump (bigger hole). You can see the inlet on the other side.

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Discussion Starter #633 (Edited)
Went out and checked the engine RPM to see if it was in the operating speed of the pump, which is 2,000-3,000.

Engine speed at full throttle: 2,500 rpm.

I may have been operating the pump below 2,000....
It's still hooked up to the BH, so will run another test at full throttle.
 

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Any strange chance there is a directional arrow on the pump?

Disconnect line from reservoir at the pump. Oil flow OK out the line by gravity?

Just thinking what I would do.
 

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Discussion Starter #636
Dynamic web page show the rotation viewed from the shaft end.

Tim
So that would be the input side facing tractor. Rotation is determined sitting on the tractor, which is CW and correct for the pump.
 

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So that would be the input side facing tractor. Rotation is determined sitting on the tractor, which is CW and correct for the pump.
I would said yes.The pumps I have had experience with, rotation base on you looking at the drive shaft and your pump brand stated it too. I sure there are some odd ones out there.
 

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Discussion Starter #638 (Edited)
I had one remaining thing in between the pump and the reservoir - the filter. Got a length of pipe and directly connected the hose from the reservoir, started the engine, engaged the pump, throttled to 2600 rpm's......

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......nuth'n. FRACK!! 🤬
 

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Discussion Starter #639
The only good news in this bowl of crap is the cost of the pump. It came with the tractor NIB. I can't return it of course, but no out of pocket for this one.

I guess I'm shopping for a new pump. Any ideas?

I'm going to do an autopsy on this one just for grins and a need to know what failed.
 
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