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Discussion Starter #561 (Edited)
double post - sorry
 

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Discussion Starter #562
First: BIG Kudos to Tim in Georgia for offering the correct oil pan for my engine. He also provided a great deal of info about the K532 from his experience working on it. Tim has been generous with his time and knowledge, going the extra mile and I appreciate it.

Second: Selling the oil pan I bought in error. This came off a free-standing loader with a Kohler K532, but it's different than the engine in a garden tractor.

NOTE: this pan DOES NOT have the dipstick provision and is CAST IRON.

Price: $100 - includes shipping in lower 48.
(less than I paid for it)

Part Number: 277216
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Note the dipstick provision on the lower left of pan for garden tractor. Pan is cast aluminum.


2455894
 

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Discussion Starter #563
Tim tells me the governor used to have an oil line going to it for cooling, which was discontinued in later engines. I see where there's a plug for it on the back of the governor.

Would it be a good or bad idea to re-install this setup?
Is pulling apart the governor for cleaning and inspection a good or bad idea? Do not disturb?

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Items 1, 2, 3
There should be a corresponding plug on the engine.

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Discussion Starter #564
Major movement forward yesterday. After installing the replacement oil pan and pulling the carb apart to clean, my friend came over to help reinstall the engine. Then we went through it methodically to set everything: valves, points, timing, carburetor, throttle and governor linkage. Hooked up a freshly charged battery and turned the key..... Whooooo Aaaahhhh! That beast fired up and ran strong! The carb dialed in at idle, mid-range and full chat. The governor smoothed out with no surging. This engine runs smooth and near perfect with no odd noises. Can't tell everyone how happy and relieved I am this thing runs so well. I did a compression test and they both came in between 121 - 125 psi. The manual says 120 +- 10% for a new engine - WOWZA! This thing has all the signs of being rebuilt sometime in the not too distant past. Can't believe I got this lucky on a machine which looked like lawn art on CraigsList.

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Discussion Starter #565 (Edited)
One thing I did different when installing the new starter motor - I learned the oil pan mount has a history of fracturing. When looking at the new starter there was a blind threaded hole on the back end. I suspected it was used as a mounting point on different models so fabricated a simple L-bracket that bolts to the cylinder shroud mounting frame. I hope this provides added support against the starter just hanging off the front mount and damps the vibration. It should relieve some of the stress on the front mounting ring.

Adding this note to post: I just checked and the old starter ALSO has this hole. It might be a good idea for others to add a bracket.

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Discussion Starter #567
Just finished aligning the front steering per the factory repair manual. I did it by the book - in sequence. The steering was way off on the tractor. I first set the toe-in per spec: 1/2" wider in the rear. Had to run the engine for power assist steering so ran a long piece of aluminum flex hose outside. Worked great and made the engine quieter too!

Note to self: aluminum is a great heat conductor. Don't touch it ANYWHERE the length of the tractor.... 🤬

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When it was turned to the right it made a hydraulic squeal and stopped more than 1 1/2 inches before hitting the chock on the left - spec is 1/4".
Turn to the left went all the way over, but seemed strained.


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Marked the steering arm stop with yellow so it can be seen better and set the control arms. Spec says the rear steering arm should be 10º forward of vertical. The front should be 10º forward of axle line.

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Notice the steering cylinder tie-rod (top one) is turned all the way in so there is no thread showing.

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I adjust it almost all the way out so the right tire was withing 1/4" of chock - per spec.
I also measured the extended cylinder rod, which was in-spec at 3 3/4" - 4" exposed.


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** HERE'S THE PROBLEM **
Turning to the right it goes all the way over and stops at the chock per spec.
Turning to the left it stops well short of an equal distance - for a wider turn radius.
Note the position of the tire and distance from the front attachment hanger.

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I believe the steering cylinder had been adjusted all the way in to even out the left/right turn radius. However, that caused a strain on the cylinder in a right turn - announced by a squeal and drop in engine rpm.
I don't seem to be smart enough to understand why this occurs when everything is set to spec..... which tells me there's something simple I'm missing or an error in alignment process. It almost looks like I should have realigned something to center - but thot that happened when setting the toe-in. The steering valve self-centers.
Can anyone tell me what causes this condition?
What should I be looking for?
Should the control arms be backed up a tad?
 

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Thank you for the kudos above. It is great to see it running.

I'm not sure which shop manual you have but mine show a step in the middle to adjust the drag link. in this step it also show setting the steer arm on the left spindle to 20 to 10 degrees along with the 10 degrees forward and reverse position on the valve bell crank and follower up with adjusting the steering arm stops. I suspect the steer arm on the spindle is out of adjustment.
 

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Red Plaid is Timeless
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Here is how my 400 steering arm is clocked:

2458489
 

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I miss spoke the specs from 20 to 10 degrees and it should be 2 to 10 degrees. I still think this could be the different from side to side. Not sure what your setup is by the picture, but looks to be at the high side of the degrees. Maybe set closer to 2 degree will help. If change the drag link and steering arm stops would change to and need to be reset.
 

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Discussion Starter #571 (Edited)
Grandpajay:
That appears backwards from what the manual shows. Where is the steering arm positioned?

Timmah:
This may explain what's going on. I am in a different section of the manual which DOES NOT show adjusting the hydro-linkage first. I will make the adjustment to see if it affects anything.
My bad, the manual says 2º-10º. I will back it up closer to low end.


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Discussion Starter #572 (Edited)
NEXT: The transmission fluid sight tube has a small plastic piece inserted about half the length which, at first, appeared to be a filter. Upon closer inspection it's empty, but has a small hole for venting. It doesn't depict or reference this device in the manual. Anyone know what it is, if it should be there and can I just leave it out.
I haven't checked the JD parts catalog drawings to see if it's listed.

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Red Plaid is Timeless
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Mine has this and I assumed it vented the sight tube to keep it from air locking.
 

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Discussion Starter #574
(y) Thanks! I'll keep it on the new tube.
 

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(y) Thanks! I'll keep it on the new tube.
In the manual it state the tube is for a sight fluid level and the last built unit of the 400 had the filter looking piece for a vent and the housing is a baffle to keep dirt out of it. JD calls it a fuel filter but it is not really. they still sell them. I purchase one for mine.

I attached another steering adjustment with all the steps list.
 

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Have you tried this mod to improve steering? It's in my list to do here shortly.

 

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Discussion Starter #577
I'm going to do a correct and complete alignment before making any mods. I'm inclined to leave things stock unless there's a big advantage gained. I don't see where the shortened turn radius would fall into that category. It's more a 'nice to have' thing. I don't have a mow deck or do any pylon racing so wouldn't be a value added.
 

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I don't see where the shortened turn radius would fall into that category. It's more a 'nice to have' thing. I don't have a mow deck or do any pylon racing so wouldn't be a value added.
It's called maneuverability, and it gets to be considerably more than merely 'nice to have' when a loader is involved. Tack a hoe to the back end and it gets to be more like 'critical' than 'nice to have'.

Turning radius becomes very important when the shortest third of your tractor is the space between the axles.

After over 1000 hours on my SCUT, I'm still beating stuff up with the back blade, that sticks out behind the tractor almost as far as the back hoe, while making sure the loader bucket doesn't do the same to something at the front of the tractor.

Given a choice between a long turning radius with power steering, and a short turning radius with manual steering, well, let's just say that experience teaches one how to compensate for the armstrong steering quite nicely, thank you very much. You CAN"T compensate for a long turning radius.
 

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Discussion Starter #579
I get it Tudor and will give further consideration. I can see where the tractor would be in trees or other tight spaces where a shorter radius would help. I'm going to get everything aligned and operating before making mods. One change at a time. I think mine might be limited by the front attachment hanger, which it's already close to in a full chock turn. Once correctly centered it may have more room.

Rear wheel was jacked so the transmission could be engaged and get the oil moving through everything. I noticed the wheel was wobbling on the axle... Had to use a 3 foot breaker bar on the castellated axle nut after soaking in penetrating oil. Of course it would look like it sat in a field for a while. As expected, the brake shoes are like new because they are rarely, if ever, used. Will sand the shoes and drum to freshen up. Use Chassis Saver to coat the inside back of wheel, brake housing plate and brake shoe against rust. Use marine grease on the spindle.

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Discussion Starter #580
For those following my adventure who aren't aware - I have a parallel thread on the Hydraulic forum for questions about that system.

I don't want to repeat posts on this one so if you want to follow you can find it here: JD400 with FEL and backhoe: Oil? Extra tank?
 
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