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I have no idea what the meaning of EVD is. Seems every company has their own short hand for port designations.
 

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Discussion Starter #542
What is this plug for? Pressure relief? Rebuilding?
 

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Relief valve.
 

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Discussion Starter #544
Found a local hydraulic store so now have a fitting source other than internet. PIRTEK and the owners a nice guy. He set me up with the correct in/out on the pump. The IN side is a hose-lock barb fitting, so no clamps. Will measure the length of 1/2 needed to come from the reservoir and buy it from him as well. Thinking of converting the barbs on the FEL and filter to the hose-lock so there are no clamps to snag.

Now have to figure out the Power Beyond issue and resolve the fittings needed.
*
 

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Discussion Starter #545
The filter has a pressure gauge on it. The only thing I would think it provides is if the filter was getting dirty and the inlet pressure would rise to push through it. Yes - no?

Should I replace it or just plug it off and fugetaboutit...?
 

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If the filter is before the pump, there shouldn't be any pressure there....... can't put the filter after the pump, as the pump puts out a LOT more pressure than the filter can take. (it becomes perfectly spherical, and then blows up. :) Don't ask how I know.)
 

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Discussion Starter #547
As it's depicted in the diagram in an earlier post - the filter is before the reservoir and fed by the BH return line. It's a low pressure line.

Think I'm just going to plug it.
 

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Toaster, I think you're correct in that the gauge is a dirty filter indicator. Properly called a "differential pressure indicator", it compares the inlet pressure to the outlet pressure and displays the differential. Usually 25psi indicates a poor filter pressure drop/clogged filter. Once up & running, if the gauge works, leave it...it may save you a few $$ in filters. If it doesn't work, plug it. Bob
 

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Your system is 100% hydraulic cylinders. It's unlikely in the extreme that the filter will ever get plugged enough to cause concern without audible warning from the pump that it is failing. Likewise, poor performance of the loader and/or hoe will warn that the rubber seals are failing well before the filter is plugged.
 

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Discussion Starter #550
Thanks - as usual - for the great info. I'm going to just plug the hole.

I'm still researching the Power Beyond and quick disconnect options. I could buy a single-stick valve control, which is expensive, or rig something up. Still figuring out Tudor Bob's suggestions and diagrams. I'm trying to understand the concept and difference between an SVC (selective valve control) and PB system.
 

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Discussion Starter #551
Well..... I'm back on the refurb project - with a different plan. I had to put aside the project to focus on getting this property ready to sell. A lot has happened - and a lot has changed - as everyone knows. The whole reason I bought this rig was to do work on the property so I could sell. Found a neighbor with a small Kubota with a front loader he let me use, which helped a lot. However, Washington had a near biblical rain a few months ago which flooded an area of my property not seen before. The neighbor to the east had a similar problem, however, his solution was to *** his side so mine couldn't drain as he's down slope from me. Normally the water would drain to his property and downhill to a stream below. I had the county come out and take a look. Their assessment was that no code or regulation was violated as it's classified drainage, not a stream or established run-off which is protected. So now I have to control the drainage flow and send it where I want it - back to the neighbors. 😁

All this means I need a backhoe.... which is right where I started. Only this round I'm not going to spend time refurbishing and just focus on getting a working tractor in play. The good news is: Much of the prep is done and almost all the needed parts were already obtained. Now it's basic repair/refurbish to get it assembled. The first challenge appeared when I tried to start it. It turned slow or not at all. Bypassed all the safety lock-out switches and isolated a bad starter. Engine has to come out, but it was already mostly disassembled. Pulled the engine, pulled the starter - which showed the mount was broken. Crap. :mad:

A friend came over to help me pull it.

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Of course it's part of the cast aluminum oil pan which has proved hard to find. Welding cast aluminum is problematic so am searching for a used pan.
I could use some help if anyone knows a source for a K532 engine parts.


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Just as a point of reference - I think I read somewhere there's a Kawasaki engine which is a drop-in for this tractor. I'm wondering if it would be a better long-run option than working with an obsolete Kohler. Any opinions on this? I would, of course, retain and store the original engine.

I WAS surprised at how good everything looked in the crankcase.

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This engine ran when I bought it. Didn't make any alarming noises or other indications of problems. Drove it on and off the trailer and into the Deere Barn.
I'm now cleaning out the FEL arm reservoir, hard lines and fittings for reassembly.

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the Kawasaki motors are great, had one in my JD 425 (20 HP). Put over 4000 hrs on it!! But they are liquid cooled? you'd have to add a radiator ?
 

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IIRC those oil pans have the starter bracket and they are real hard to find, pretty much everything else you can find. I've seen a few posts on here and that seems to be a weak point on the machine.
 

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I re-powered my 400. I pulled the motor apart before doing so to see if I could rebuild. it had a lost a rod. By the time i found and purchase parts, machine work it was more than re-powering it. With that said, I have this part. send your email and I will sent you a picture if you want. I live in GA.

Tim
 

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Discussion Starter #555
Sent you private message Timmah.
Would also be interested in the Kawa conversion. Can you post photos of the engine installed? Interested in how you adapted a radiator. Like you, I'm fearing this will be one of a series of broken parts which add up to more than a repower. In the short run, if I can get this rig going long enough to do the work on this place it saves that much more time and money.
 

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Discussion Starter #556
What model is the Kawa engine?
 

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Sent you private message Timmah.
Would also be interested in the Kawa conversion. Can you post photos of the engine installed? Interested in how you adapted a radiator. Like you, I'm fearing this will be one of a series of broken parts which add up to more than a repower. In the short run, if I can get this rig going long enough to do the work on this place it saves that much more time and money.
Just sent picture and cell #

Tim
 

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Discussion Starter #558
This was the outlet spiggot for the FEL arm tank. The manual says 'screen strainer' that had some kind of cloth or filter around it that is long rotted away. I don't know if it's still available or even necessary, considering the can filter is going to be in-line to the pump feed.
Any thots?

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One thing I noticed from your posts was that the tractor was stored outside for a number of years . Equipment doesn't like being stored out in the elements for long periods of time . I built an unheated 12' x 12' addition onto the end of my woodshed years ago with very little money. My 300 g.t. and 2 dirt bikes live there. They still look good after all these years.
 

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Discussion Starter #560 (Edited)
You are correct Steve, which made me apprehensive about going to look at it, much less buy it. However, I found it to be in such good, REPAIRABLE, condition I took a chance on a few things and bought it. Now the machine has been torn apart enough to know the bet paid off. It looks rough, but it's all there and nothing had to be done which wasn't cost effective. I put up a 14x20 temp building using a trick learned many years ago so I don't need a permit. It houses all the overflow vehicles and stuff from the garage.

This morning I took the advice of Tim, who posted above, and looked at the cylinder walls under the piston while the pan is off. What I found was unexpected to say the least. They are smooth and appear to have been honed as the cross hatches are very visible. If you look at the photo I posted above the connecting rods appear new and likely the pistons were replaced. This engine has been rebuilt sometime in the not to distant past. I have NOT run a compression check. That will be done when the oil pan gets here and it's fired up.

Now want to replace the engine isolator mounts. The rear, M46201, are available at dealer for $38.48, but found on Ebay for $10 each.

The front, AM35692, are NLA. Could not find them doing a quick search. They appear to be generic plate isolators. Does anyone know the substitution part? Likely from McMasters or some tractor supply? Went to a few websites but didn't see anything.


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