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Discussion Starter #521
Can anybody recommend a good plastic cleaner? My amp meter is hard to read. I'd replace it, but think it might be a really high-tech one that reads by induction. The red wire isn't connected - it's a loop that passes under the meter bracket.

If forced to give up this beauty, any recommendations for a replacement. Didn't bother to call the dealer, because if there's a bounding deer on the face the price is tripled.
 

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Can anybody recommend a good plastic cleaner? My amp meter is hard to read. I'd replace it, but think it might be a really high-tech one that reads by induction. The red wire isn't connected - it's a loop that passes under the meter bracket.

If forced to give up this beauty, any recommendations for a replacement. Didn't bother to call the dealer, because if there's a bounding deer on the face the price is tripled.
Tooth paste.

It's similar to the ammeter available at the auto parts stores for installation in custom dashes in cars. Unlike the ones at the parts stores, the ones for tractors may have a gasket around the lens to keep the rain out of the works.

Alternatively, you might try a welding shop for the replacement round lens for burning goggles as a substitute for the frosted lens currently on the gauge. They're about the same size.
 

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I thought that picture of the ammeter was an engine freeze plug, yikes.


I swapped mine out for a volt meter, perfect fit and used the same wire. Is it water proof? I do not know, then again mine is garaged.
 

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Discussion Starter #526
I'm thinking a little WD and mine will be just fine!
 

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Minding my P's & Q's
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Little WD and that should all buff right out. :tango_face_wink:
Might buff down to nothing left of it, but what the hey?:tango_face_grin:
 

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Discussion Starter #528
This one is on the way. Will plug the light hole with silicon. I don't think the tractor is over 30 amps.....

I'm trying to start the tractor now and having some problems. The starter won't kick or click. I'm working my way through the electrical diagnostic steps from the repair manual. So far, all the lock-out switches are good and power into the solenoid and fuse is good. I can jump the solenoid and the starter engages. Can't get it to turn with the switch - but switch is new and checks out....
 

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Discussion Starter #529
OK.... the red bone connected to the switch bone. The purple bone connected to the other switch bone. Switch bone red connected to the breaker bone. Switch bone purple connected to the solenoid bone..... uh.... no connection. The dreaded purple wire....

I know the components are good so it's the connection. Continuity between both ends of the wire....yup. So.... connector contacts. Tiny wire brush - scrub scrub...

Turn switch - VIOLIN! OK - engine should fire. Have to install the panels and battery tray - again. Then we'll see if I can get a chitty-chitty bang-bang!
 

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Do you have the amp gauge installed? If not then the wires need to be connected where the gauge was.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #531
Yup - the ammeter wire is a loop so won't stop starting.

The issue now is the double lockout switch for the PTO, which has to be in neutral. The PTO engagement lever does not depress both switches when in neutral. The purple wire side doesn't make contract because the arm is two parts: one has a washer/spacer to hit the red side, but the other falls short. I can't adjust the purple switch height because they are locked together. I need to either weld a dot on the bottom of the arm or grind a flat spot on the washer so they're even and contact both buttons. Going to put a flat spot on the washer and hope it's doesn't rotate on the pin. If it does, will tape both switches closed so the engine starts.

I'm determined to fire this thing up today.....
*
 

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Discussion Starter #532
I mapped the hydraulic flow and existing fitting sizes on each component. They can be changed easily to what works best. I'm ready to buy fittings for the last hoses on the steering valve and want to get everything in one order. I'm also ordering 1/2" hose.

The pump has a 1/2 going in and a 3/8 going out (#8 ORB in and #6 ORB out) The FEL controller has a 1/2 going in and out. Is there better pressure with an inbound 3/8 line on the FEL controller and 3/8 out to the backhoe? That would mean the IN side of the backhoe would be a 3/8 and the out remain a 1/2 as it's a low pressure return line. OR ~ bump up the fitting on the pump to a 6-8 so it's half inch and matches.

I'm putting quick-connects on the backhoe IN/OUT. I wanted to position them male-female - female / male so the the two lines can be disconnected and plugged into each other if the backhoe is removed. Obviously I would have to come up with another solution - like a short hose - to bridge the sizes.

What size hose and fittings works best for this flow?
*
 

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Discussion Starter #533
The neutral lock-out switch is broken. I tied the wires together so the engine can be started. Anyone have a source for these? I'm guessing they're common and could call the dealer, but if someone has already done the homework I'd like to benefit from experience.

It's mounted on the bracket with two pop-rivets, which I have.
 

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Kish JD 318/420/430
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The neutral lock-out switch is broken. I tied the wires together so the engine can be started. Anyone have a source for these? I'm guessing they're common and could call the dealer, but if someone has already done the homework I'd like to benefit from experience.

It's mounted on the bracket with two pop-rivets, which I have.
The switch (Part Number AM35830) is sold as an assembly by JD for $37.77, So do you see and info on the switch itself (like manufacturer logo/part number, etc)
 

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I'm putting quick-connects on the backhoe IN/OUT. I wanted to position them male-female - female / male so the the two lines can be disconnected and plugged into each other if the backhoe is removed. Obviously I would have to come up with another solution - like a short hose - to bridge the sizes.

What size hose and fittings works best for this flow?
*
For the typical max flow rate for GT loaders (4-6 gpm), 1/4" hoses with -6 JIC 37° swivel terminations. Adapt to the port sizes as required.

The pump supply hose should be 1/2" minimum, and 3/8" is usually suggested for the return line, but most use the 1/4" there as well.

There is an alternate solution for the quick connects. Install a Tee just behind the tractor side quick connects and install a hydraulic ball valve between them. With the ball valve open, the flow comes from the loader valve and goes right back to tank. With the ball valve closed, the flow goes to the back hoe valves then returns to tank.

The advantage is that the engine does not have to be shut off for disconnecting or reconnecting the hoe.

The disadvantages are that the hoses and ball valve have to be secured to the tractor in a manner that does not interfere with any of the operations, and that someone may inadvertently open or close the valve when you aren't looking. Think little hands that love to move things.

With the hoe installed and connected, there is no danger for either position of the ball valve. The hoe won't work if it's open, but the flow will be free to return to tank. On the other hand, if the hoe is disconnected and the ball valve is closed, the pump will most likely break if the loader valve does not have the return port to tank as well as the power beyond port to the hoe quick connect.

Your diagram does not indicate the presence of the necessary power beyond part of the circuit for having two individual valve sets. If a power beyond kit is not available for the loader valve, install a suitable relief valve in the line between the pump and the first valve set in the circuit. Relief valves have 3 ports, from the pump, to the control valve, and a return to tank, or optionally, the inlet side of the pump. All 3 must be connected
 

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Discussion Starter #536
Tudor Bob - I'm confusilating...

I don't know what a 'power beyond' is. Where would it be placed - what does it do?

Also: I'm not sure of your terminology. The reservoir to pump feed will be 1/2 hose.

You said the T should be behind the quick connectors to BH. Then a line from the T to another T on the BH return? I would close both T's to loop back to the Filter?

What do you mean by 'return line'? Is it the pump to FEL control that should be 3/8? Then 3/8 out to the backhoe?

Should it be 3/8 or 1/2 from the BH control to the filter (F) and 1/2 to the reservoir?

Can you mark up my drawing for all this? It would be easier to visualize with the flow map. Need to buy the connectors and adapters soon and want to get it right (obviously).
 

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Tudor Bob - I'm confusilating...

I don't know what a 'power beyond' is. Where would it be placed - what does it do?

Also: I'm not sure of your terminology. The reservoir to pump feed will be 1/2 hose.

You said the T should be behind the quick connectors to BH. Then a line from the T to another T on the BH return? I would close both T's to loop back to the Filter?

What do you mean by 'return line'? Is it the pump to FEL control that should be 3/8? Then 3/8 out to the backhoe?

Should it be 3/8 or 1/2 from the BH control to the filter (F) and 1/2 to the reservoir?

Can you mark up my drawing for all this? It would be easier to visualize with the flow map. Need to buy the connectors and adapters soon and want to get it right (obviously).
Power beyond kit - Where it goes.

Some valve sets have two ports on the return side. Either can be used for a return to tank line, but one of them is specifically for a power beyond kit (usually a special plug) to allow a second or third valve set to be used in the system without risk of damaging the pump.

If the valve set does not have the two ports on the return side, or a power beyond kit is not available, a separate relief valve component is required between the pump and the first valve set of the circuit. It will have a return line that goes directly to tank.

- Why it is needed.

The primary circuit of a hydraulic system is series in nature, as in one component feeds the next, This makes for a simple system that has one complication that I had a rough time wrapping my head around. The pressures are additive.

This means that the pressure required for one component is added to the pressure required for the next component upstream. In your specific case, if you use a back hoe control valve at the same time as a loader control valve, the pressures are added together and that total is what the pump faces. Such is a rare occurrence, but it does crop up occasionally when moving the tractor with the hoe,

The power beyond kit frees up a line from the relief valve in the loader valve set that will go directly to tank. It will not go to the back hoe, and it will not pass go and collect $200. (Monopoly reference) The line from the power beyond kit and the port that it is installed in becomes the line for supplying the back hoe and any additional valve sets downstream.

Unfortunately, I am a klutz when it come to computer generated diagrams, so bear with me.

Pump > Loader valve /relief > X > Back hoe valve > tank
.............. (PBY) │
..................... Tank

"PBY" - Power beyond port.

As mentioned, the return lines only are recommended to be 3/8". The line between the loader and hoe valve sets is a pressure line, not a return line. This is to ensure the largest possible pressure differential between work load and return to tank. On large flow rate industrial systems, a restrictive return line can generate a lot of unwanted heat. Not so much for the low flow rates for our GT loader systems which is why most maintain the 1/4" line throughout from the pump to the reservoir. The supply line from the reservoir to the pump should be 1/2" minimum.


You said the T should be behind the quick connectors to BH. Then a line from the T to another T on the BH return? I would close both T's to loop back to the Filter?
Pump ................ Filter
Tee > Ball Valve >Tee
.. X ...................... X
BH ..................... BH

Do it right and there are only the adapters to connect the valve ports to the Tees. When the valve handle is parallel to the lines, it's closed for back hoe operation. When it is at 90° to the lines, it's open for disconnecting and removal of the hoe.

"X" indicates quick connects.
 

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Discussion Starter #538
Here's a couple shots of the FEL control. There are two ports plugged. Are they a second in/out for the power beyond?
 

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No. There is a boss on the lower edge of the valve body in the second pic that should be the location for a power beyond kit.

If it does not have a plug in it, or the kit is not available, here are some options for a separate relief valve component. As long as it's rated for more flow than needed, the important spec is the usable pressure range.
 

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Discussion Starter #540
Looks like EVD on the boss.
I'll have to do some research and deal with this. Don't want to get overly complicated - but want it done right.
 

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