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Discussion Starter #1
Hi everyone , I need a rectifier for my 1995 520h its a 20amp 14 volt. I found one on ebay its a 20 amp 14.4 for $32. I think its the same.
The dealers price was $125, I live in Ontario Canada so they have a license to double or even triple the price for parts.
I'm a bit leary of buying elctrical parts on ebay but after shipping cost its almost half the price.
Has anyone bought one recently?

Thanks
 

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I just bought a replacment for a sears tractor (10 amp) off ebay. The part I bought was made by Stens, made in USA. There are some made in china on ebay, if that matters to you ?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I ordered the part on line today thanks again Gary, the dealers price was 149 the stens dealer was 76.
 

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In answer to lilysdad

If they did make one no dealers would stock them
In other words sorry theres not a univarsal one
 

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To answer your question , yes there are many replacements for that rectifier. The package may be different but they work just the same. Look up Diga key or mouser for parts. I usually buy from the surplus houses on the net. I'm one of the owner that researches hydrogen cells from energy builders . net.
 

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I hope I can post this. I know you have found one already, but this information may help people looking at the post later. It pays to shop around. I just bought one for my 1990 520H. Toro advertised price was $93.46, Parts Tree was $75.27, Pat's(?) Small Engine Parts (psep.com) was $39.95.

I also checked the price on the stator / alternator. Toro was $132.46, Parts Tree was $106.70, onanparts.com was $44.50 (not a typo, I just looked it up again).

I searched each part number on the internet. If I found a different O.E. or aftermarket part number, I searched it as well. Sometimes it takes a while to check all the numbers, but money is a little tight right now.

dr74go
 

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around here radio shack will have a AC rectifier in stock, usually less than 20.00. the package looks different, but the guts are the same. heck, if you really wan tto save money buy 4 diodes and build it yourself, that is all it is.
Now, that would be some good info to have! I understand that different amp. Wheel Horse alternators use a different rectifier. If you could provide a wiring diagram and a how to, a lot of old engines would appreciate it.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Having a problem with the new rectifier looks like its screwed. The battery went dead, did some checks with a meter stators is working fine but just 8.5 volts coming out of the rectifier.
Not sure if there is something else wrong but a rectifier should last longer than a year or so.
I bought the part from Banta Saw Access, its suppost to replace Onan part HE 191-2106.
Just had a look at the Onanparts.com site and their part number is 191-2227 not sure if there is a difference or not ....could this be the problem?
Onan wants $56 plus shipping , I just email them to find out how much to get it to Ontario Canada.
Anyone have any ideas as to what could pooch a rectifier?

thanks
 

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A rectifier is nothing more than a Diode... A Diode changes AC to DC by letting only 1/2 of a sine wave go on it's merry way to your battery... A bridge rectifier is a little better because it uses 4 diodes to rectifie the AC and you will get full wave DC to your battery... The diode also works like a check valve letting the electric only travle one way... This will stop the battery from feeding current back to the chargine coil...
So what it all adds up to is that you can go to Radio Shack and buy a $2.00 diode and solder into the charging line and save you hard earned money...
 

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Diodes only rectify by blocking reverse current flow i.e. alternating current. If you want to regulate you also need a zener diode or a couple power tranisiters plus their biasing circuitry to regulate the DC output so it doesn't fry your battery.
Theres more to a solid state regulator than diodes.
Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Thought I would check the voltage at the 2 terminals for the stator and got 52 volts at fairly high rpm which is close to the spec. of 57 volts.
So I confident the stator is ok.
Also made sure the rectifier has a good ground, I used a file to clean up the mating surfaces and made sure the screw was tight.
With the engine off the voltage at B+ terminal and ground was the same as the battery voltage so I figure all the connections are good from B+ connector wire all the way to the battery.
I guess theres no getting around the elephant in the room it must be the rectifier. I think I'll take it off and try to get the silicone sealant out so I see whats in there, maybe I can rebuild it.
 

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If you want to know how one of these R/R works and have a few questions about your charging system, check this thread out. IMO Chuck is one of the most knowledgable people you will find when it comes to electricity and he will explain stuff in terms anyone can understand.

http://whtractor.15.forumer.com/index.php?showtopic=19973
 
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