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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Have questions -Receiving my "new" 1984 Allis 912 Garden Tractor

Hi Guys

Ive been a case/Ingersoll guy for some time and just recently had some engine trouble with my 3012. Unfortunatly, because of money constraints, I was forced to let it go for cheap.

However, I received a bit of good fortune and learned that my wife's aunt sold her vacation home that was up for sale for about 2 years. She has a tractor that she is giving to me ....to help us keep the lawn mowed. Her husband died 2 years ago so I couldnt get too much information on the machine until just now. The tractor is located 3 hours north of me but is being delivered sometime next week

It seems its a Allis Chalmers 912 Hydro (1983 or 1984). Has a 12 HP cast iron kohler. After doing a bit of research, it appears that this is a pretty nice heavy duty machine. I believe that they were made by Simplicity and my aunt said they spent $3800 for new back then. She said her husband took good care of it ...and stored it indoor. I pulled up a picture of another 912 on the internet and saw that it has the Simplicity style mowing deck with lawn striper ....cool!! Machine hasnt been run in about 1 to 1 1/2 years.

Now, here are a couple of issues that I hope someone on this forum can address. My cousin who has and will be delivering the machine tells me its a very nice heavy duty machine .....and its very clean. He said that it fires but doesnt stay running. They did put fresh gas in it. Maybe carb or plugs?? ALso, as he said, it's "stuck in gear" ...so they had to drag it onto the trailer. There were no known gear issues when it previously ran (year and a half ago). Not sure if it's from just sitting?? My question. Are these minor issues (something I could take care of myself) or shall I have it dropped off at a repair shop as he's bringing it into town? I dont want to spend a whole lot since money is tight. It would be easier to have him take it directly but I could always arrange to borrow a trailer later...should it need to go into a shop.

Also, are these good machines?? I know Allis is a good company.

Thanks in advance
 

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ALso, as he said, it's "stuck in gear"
If it's a hydro , I believe you have to "release" the rear end to free wheel it . . Not sure where the valve/switch/etc is , but thinking it is probably beneath the seat?
 

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Congratulations! IMHO, this is about the next best thing to an Ingersoll! I used them almost exclusively for 30 years! Right up until I was introduced to the Ingersoll. Two of my sons still run them!

I bought one from a dealer for parts some years ago because it was stuck in gear. I stopped at another dealer a week or so later and was telling him about it. He said to bring it in, he would fix it in about 20 or 30 minutes. He did! Said "how" was a trade secrete! I was willing to accept that to get a fine running tractor! Hope the info helps you!
 

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You are correct ptmmatssc on the hydro there is a release you need to pull either as you said under the seat or sticking out the back of the tractor I would go on http://www.simpletractors.com/club2/default.asp and ask so you don't break something..
 

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Hiya, I have and still use my Grandfather's 912H from 1984. It is not a beast, but it is built like a tank. Belt drive is excellent, they last forever and still let you pull anything, like a 26' boat trailer or a trailer loaded with almost a cord of wood. Just ridiculous for the size. Stuck in gear could mean a few things, but something else to check on the hydro is whether the free-wheeling valves are stuck open. Push the lever down to roll it, then release the lever and the valves stay open. It will be obvious at first glance. That is, if you have a hydro, as they did make the manual tranny in that model.

I have a 42" deck for it but that is worn out beyond reasonable repair. Replacing deck belts at 30-40 bucks a pop gets old fast.

Now I have the legacy doing most tasks, I typically use the 912 for pulling a trailer around.

Your best best to get it running is to take your time a clean and flush everything out in the fuel lines, carb, and maybe tank. If it runs and then craps out it is almost certainly a fuel problem.

It really is just a wonderful machine.
 

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You will be very satisfied with your "new" tractor! It was made by Simplicity and all parts are fully interchangeable. Your 912 would be the equivilant of a Simplicity 7112. It has a Sundstrand Hydrostatic Transmission. If it doesn't have the manuals, you can download them at http://www.simplicitymfg.com/manuals/index.cfm?rd=1.

Push down on lever A in the following diagram for free wheeling. When you lift it up, make sure both of the bypass valves come up. Sometimes they have a way of sticking and then you wont have full use of your hydro. If they do stick a little Pblaster and careful use of needle nose usually frees them up.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thank you so much for the info and the diagrams. I'll check the "free wheeling" lever when the machine arrives
 

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Sounds like you have a winner there!!! As for the running issue, Im sure its just a mucked up carb, or maybe just needs a points cleaning, replacement, adjustment. Those old Kohler singles are just as relyable as they get. Just a big, solid chunk of a workhorse!!!! Im sure we can get you up and running in no time at all!!
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Hey Guys

Well she just arrived yesterday and appears to be in pretty good shape. A bit dirty and can use a good degreasing bath but very solid. I was able to start it and keep it running. Upon quick inspection, the plug looks like it needs changing, air filter is quite dirty, probably needs an oil change, and it might need a few other minor adjustments. At this point, im not worried about the engine. I started it and was able to move it in reverse and forward about 2 feet with no problem a couple of times. However, it then stopped moving. Engine was still running fine but it wouldnt engage. Dont know, maybe I did something wrong or something came off. My cousin was able to drive it down off the trailer and into my garage yesterday ... I wasnt here when he did it.

I was reading over the owners manual and looking at all the belts, drives and gearing under the seat. It is somewhat complex ...yet simple. I found the "free wheel" lever mentioned above but cant figure out how it works. I am able to move it up and down and see that it makes contact on two metal points (valves??). Are those two points suppose to move when the free wheel lever is down or is it making some type of electrical contact?

One other thing, after I lifted the seat for the first time, I noticed that the main drive belt has absolutely no tension on it (with or without the clutch/brake pushed down). I assume that there should be some type of tension?? It appears to be routed correctly but not sure if the belt is bad or something else. I snapped a couple of pictures and will post them.

Lastly, the deck lever lift does not work. Seems like you should be able to raise and lower the mowing deck. The lever moves but it isnt attached to anything on the other side. I dont know, perhaps this deck just sits on the ground constantly? I read that the 12hp version only had a deck raised and lowered by this lever (left of the driver)

Right now, im not so concered about the lever as I am about getting this thing to move forward and back

see bottom of this thread for pictures:

http://www.simpletractors.com/club2/topic.asp?whichpage=1&TOPIC_ID=105323&
 

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If you have a Hydrostat, you shouldn't have a main drive belt. What you should have is a PTO shaft connected to the flywheel of the engine. The belt could posibably be the drive belt from the mower deck.
 

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If you have a Hydrostat, you shouldn't have a main drive belt. What you should have is a PTO shaft connected to the flywheel of the engine. The belt could posibably be the drive belt from the mower deck.

That's incorrect. There's a belt to the hydro from the right side of the bevel gear box. If the clutch pedal doesn't get used (common once you get used to using the hydro lever to stop and start), the linkage to the tightener pulley will get rusty and not adequately re-engage the belt driving the hydro if you do push down on the clutch.

To the OP, use some WD40 on the pivot points of the linkage above.

The two little pins, that are under the "L" shaped piece in the diagram above, will be pushed down when the "L" shaped piece is pushed down. These pins should pop back up when the "L" shaped piece is released-----------but may need a little help as described by another poster.
 
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