Hey Snoopy1dog, The model YM1600 is one that I'm not too familiar with. It is a rare model but I seem to be seeing more of them lately.
What did you do during the clutch rebuild? Obviously, you split the tractor, but did you replace the pilot bushing, T/O bearing, clutch disk and pressure plate?
One of the few porblems I'm aware of, and have experienced, is the thow-out bearing carrier retun springs. Those springs and the pearch pins inside the case, if broken, well cause too much pressure on one side of the carrier and not allow the clutch to fully engage/disengage.
On many models, you can remove the drag link from the pitman arm, unbolt the steering box and slide the steering assembly high enough to examine the hole with a flashlight. You should be able to see if the springs have become disconnected or any problem affecting the travel on the shaft.
Do you have DRY or WET brakes? If they are dry, they are fairly easy to work on and repair. They often bind from sitting long periods, or rust to the drum. You can remove the brake cover, which is where the shoes and pivot are mounted to. A wire brush, some light sanding and a minimum of lubrication on the pivot is usually all that's needed to make them fully operational.
If the brake shoe material indicates significant wear, you can rotate the pivot 90° which will re-arch the shoe distance and allow you several more years of use.
Mark
What did you do during the clutch rebuild? Obviously, you split the tractor, but did you replace the pilot bushing, T/O bearing, clutch disk and pressure plate?
One of the few porblems I'm aware of, and have experienced, is the thow-out bearing carrier retun springs. Those springs and the pearch pins inside the case, if broken, well cause too much pressure on one side of the carrier and not allow the clutch to fully engage/disengage.
On many models, you can remove the drag link from the pitman arm, unbolt the steering box and slide the steering assembly high enough to examine the hole with a flashlight. You should be able to see if the springs have become disconnected or any problem affecting the travel on the shaft.
Do you have DRY or WET brakes? If they are dry, they are fairly easy to work on and repair. They often bind from sitting long periods, or rust to the drum. You can remove the brake cover, which is where the shoes and pivot are mounted to. A wire brush, some light sanding and a minimum of lubrication on the pivot is usually all that's needed to make them fully operational.
If the brake shoe material indicates significant wear, you can rotate the pivot 90° which will re-arch the shoe distance and allow you several more years of use.
Mark
