Rebuilding engine from 1972 140 H3 ... Southwest Wisconsin

2541 Views 48 Replies 11 Participants Last post by GreenGabby, 19 d ago

GreenGabby

Discussion Starter · 2 mo ago

I have a 1972 Deere 140 H3 (T0586041510M) with broken rod. Engine s/n is 3274026. Block is not ventilated (no hole in block from broken rod). Pulling engine to see if engine can be rebuilt.

Engine is about ready to pull. Still need to disconnect drive shaft. I have cut the wire and drove out the roll pin in adapter but can not separate shaft from adapter. Was going to ask how do I separate driveshaft from engine but when I went back to garage to get s/n I figured it out and engine is now ready to pull. I removed the two nuts (facing rearward) from the flexcoupler to driveshaft adapter. Engine is now loose to pull.

Tire Wheel Automotive tire Vehicle Green

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Photos ...
1st ... hood, some engine tins, muffler, and starter removed. Starter was removed to install on a 1973 140 H3 I own. I have two other starters to install on this engine. One needs rebuild.
2nd ... it was a surprise to me engine did not have pto installed. Will need to find a used one to install if engine is rebuilt.
3rd ... wasn't sure if rod was broke or rod cap disengaged. These are pieces I found when I drained oil pan.
4th ... Hardware I removed to disengage driveshaft from disconnect clutch
5th ... shows hole where I removed roll pin to disconnect driveshaft

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sparklie

· #21 · 2 mo ago

Old&Rusty said:
The 341 kohler is 10 bolts

You are so right on 10 head bolts on the K341-------I guess I have got old.

Old&Rusty

· #22 · 2 mo ago

No it happens to the best of us lol

Reactions: 2

designsolutions495

· #23 · 2 mo ago

Hi there, new to this. I have been doing repair work for almost 50 years. You have another option, that is to sleeve the cylinder back to stock. Usually crankshafts can be saved by polishing the journal by hand, a lot cheaper. If you have indents on the journal after polishing that is ok, raised material obviously is not.

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clubairth

· #24 · 2 mo ago

I notice you said the balancer gears were not re-installed when the engine was re-built the last time?
Does leaving these out cause any problems? I mean they went to the expense of putting them in at the factory so they must have some use?
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GreenGabby

Discussion Starter · #25 · 2 mo ago

designsolutions495 said:
Hi there, new to this. I have been doing repair work for almost 50 years. You have another option, that is to sleeve the cylinder back to stock. Usually crankshafts can be saved by polishing the journal by hand, a lot cheaper. If you have indents on the journal after polishing that is ok, raised material obviously is not.

Yes, I am aware of cylinder sleeves but usage seems to be in larger (agricultural tractor) engines. I have never seen or read a post about someone sleeving a small engine. Not sure if cost is the reason no one sleeves these engines. I did a quick internet search and did not find anything on a Kohler K321 cylinder sleeve. I have a K341 block that broke a rod w/.030" over piston which could use a sleeve.

clubairth said:
I notice you said the balancer gears were not re-installed when the engine was re-built the last time?
Does leaving these out cause any problems? I mean they went to the expense of putting them in at the factory so they must have some use?
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Difference between 14Hp K321 in 140 and K321 14 Hp in 314 is the balancer gears. If you have ever owned a 314 you would know why this model is called "the vibrator". When you shut the engine down it vibrates like crazy. That is why the 314 engine is mounted in frame using isolators. The 140 engine is bolted directly to frame without isolators. The balancer gears are used to relieve some of that vibration. Here is a short article about the balancer gears from ISAVETRACTORS website ... Engine Science: The Balancing Act of Single Cylinder Engines

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clubairth

· #26 · 2 mo ago

Good article and he does explain it well. What's missing is does leaving these balance gears out of an engine factory designed to use them cause any problem besides the additional vibrations produced? From the article it seems to be commonly done on many of these type of engines?

I could see this extra vibration breaking engine mounts as well as causing cracking in metal brackets and such.
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designsolutions495

· #27 · 2 mo ago

I've done several small engines this way when out of max bore size. All cast iron blocks. Probably run at least $100.00 now as about 10 Yeatrs ago it ran $65.00.

GreenGabby

Discussion Starter · #28 · 2 mo ago

I am not an engine rebuilder so do not want to provide false information. Jim, mechanic rebuilding my engine, tells me there would be a lot of vibration in the fender deck. I have to take his word for that. My opinion is yes, that could be why the rod failed in my engine. If the engine was isolator mounted I would believe there is less risk of engine failure. Need expertise from engine rebuilder.

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GreenGabby

Discussion Starter · #29 · 2 mo ago

designsolutions495 said:
I've done several small engines this way when out of max bore size. All cast iron blocks. Probably run at least $100.00 now as about 10 Yeatrs ago it ran $65.00.

Who is the sleeve supplier?

designsolutions495

· #30 · 2 mo ago

I used Nappa here in Indiana, one of their stores had a machine shop.

biker3777

· #31 · 2 mo ago

Did the piston have the marking for .030 over or was it micd out for a true measurement .
My 216 shook real bad and I don’t know if it had the gears in or not,never had it aparart

GreenGabby

Discussion Starter · #32 · 2 mo ago

I did not remove the head so not sure if the piston was marked .030 and do not recall seeing stamp on piston at Jim's shop. Remember Jim saying the cylinder was hardly worn so it was unlikely it needed full machining. Crank was highly galled. The biggest issue I saw was the cheap connecting rod. I do not like using that word (cheap). It implies something is manufactured based solely on cost and usually is poor quality. That was the rod used for this rebuild. There was no thickness to the rod structure That is why I am having this engine reassembled with OEM parts.

Deere 216 engine is K241 (16 hp) mounted on a cradle. The cradle sits on isloators in the frame so should not have balance gears. Not sure about 216 but I know my 314 would shake violently when I shut it down if low idle was not adjusted to spec. That spec is higher than most operators like to hear at low idle but is necessary to reduce shake.

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biker3777

· #33 · 2 mo ago

I suspect the crank is fine,what happens most of the time is aluminum from the rod sticks and makes the crank look bad,but aluminum won’t gall steel.
Happens on onan motor a lot but I think acid will remove the aluminum

GreenGabby

Discussion Starter · #34 · 2 mo ago

Jim is rebuilding the engine. I am leaving it up to him whether parts can be reused or replaced. Jim has done some wonderful work for me and I trust his judgement.

biker3777

· #35 · 2 mo ago

These old kohler need oem,that what the engineers designed it to work hard for a long time

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subllime68charger

· #36 · 2 mo ago

Hows the snow down your way today Gabby?

I think I'm using the 140 and blower when I get home from work today!

GreenGabby

Discussion Starter · #37 · 2 mo ago

I went out to the garage to turn off lights about midnight and it was sleeting. Up at 4:00 and it was still raining. Laurie was up at 6:00 and it was snowing. Looks like it has stopped (about 2:00 pm). Heading out to see if the 1032 will take of the snow. Looks heavy. would estimate 6".

subllime68charger

· #38 · 2 mo ago

yep I'm on my way home from work now and gonna fire up the 140 and blower and use them at home.

tomorrow in town I have 2 driveways to clear and will due 1 with the ATV and plow and the other with my 1032 snow blower I keep in town.

GreenGabby

Discussion Starter · #39 · 2 mo ago

I am really impressed with how well that model 49 is working for you. I have two more here (both tall chutes) in very good to excellent condition. I don't need both. One will likely be for sale next winter. Probably on a 120/140 or a 318. Need to get rid of some tractors also.

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subllime68charger

· #40 · 2 mo ago

Keep me in mind, I would love to upgrade my intown Blower from the walk behind 1032 I currently have to a 140 with a 49 blower.

I got about 80% of my drive way done at home then I found a branch and that took care of the sheer bolt for the auger so I just used the ATV to finish up.

Gas Wood Waste Packing materials Fruit

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