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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I know this has been covered here and elsewhere before, but when I did a Google Search, I found some posts with over 100 replies, which makes it kind of hard to quickly get the info that you need.

Here are the parts that I have used to rebuild these valves. I have rebuilt several and have had good results each time.

Spool O-rings, I have used:

Buna N O-Rings that are 7/16" ID, 5/8" OD and 3/32" thickness. They are -111 size O-Rings.

I have also used 11MM x 2.5MM Buna Ns.

The 11MM O-rings are slightly larger and provide a slightly tighter fit, so I PREFER THEM, but either one seems to work fine. McMaster Carr.

Oil-Resistant Buna-N O-Ring
2.5 mm Wide, 11 mm ID
$9.94 per pack of 100
9262K234


I have used these O-rings and Backup Rings from McMaster Carr on the lines that connect to the valves:

Oil-Resistant Buna-N O-Ring
1/16 Fractional Width, Dash Number 013
$4.37 per pack of 100
9452K57

Oil-Resistant Buna-N Backup Rings
0.053" Wide, for Dash Number 011
$2.60 per pack of 100
5288T117



I also replace the spring at the bottom of the valves with Cub Cadet PN 732-3059

I have encountered several valves that did not "self-center" properly. Replacing this spring has restored proper function to each valve so I now replace the springs on every valve that I rebuild.

When you take the valve/s out of the tractor, PAY ATTENTION TO WHICH WAY THE ARROW/S ON TOP POINT. You want to install them the same way when you put it back together(assuming they worked properly when you took them apart)
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Photo shows a used 732-3059 spring and a new one, side by side. Guess which one is which. I have replaced a lot and they all look like this.

2483869
 

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I just purchased these O-rings and spring in preparation on doing a rebuild. I am pretty new to this tractor and not very familiar with hydraulics. Do you guys know if there are any instructional videos or step by step directions I could follow?

Once I have the valve out, I generally know what to do. Most of my questions revolve around removing it. Is it possible to just rebuild the spool without messing with the lines? Do I have to drain the hydraulic fluid prior to starting? What if I get air in the line? Things like that.

Any help would be appreciated! Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I just purchased these O-rings and spring in preparation on doing a rebuild. I am pretty new to this tractor and not very familiar with hydraulics. Do you guys know if there are any instructional videos or step by step directions I could follow?

Once I have the valve out, I generally know what to do. Most of my questions revolve around removing it. Is it possible to just rebuild the spool without messing with the lines? Do I have to drain the hydraulic fluid prior to starting? What if I get air in the line? Things like that.

Any help would be appreciated! Thanks!
Big difference between possible and recommended. I don't think I would EVER do it without removing the lines/valve. The O-rings/BU-rings on the lines are also subject to deterioration and failure, so I would ALWAYS replace them when I rebuild a spool valve.

No need to drain, a little fluid will leak out, but just catch it on a rag or cardboard. I have done many and never had to bleed the lines, just run to full travel and hold for a few seconds, several times, and it should be good to go. Check fluid and add as needed, but if full prior to the project, it will not take much fluid.

REPLACE THE SPRING when you do it.
 

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Thanks Joelk! I already bought all of the O-rings and backers to do all of the lines so I will do all of it. I also bought the spring. Might as well fix it all while I am in there. Thanks for the info!
 

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I know this has been covered here and elsewhere before, but when I did a Google Search, I found some posts with over 100 replies, which makes it kind of hard to quickly get the info that you need.

Here are the parts that I have used to rebuild these valves. I have rebuilt several and have had good results each time.

Spool O-rings, I have used:

Buna N O-Rings that are 7/16" ID, 5/8" OD and 3/32" thickness. They are -111 size O-Rings.

I have also used 11MM x 2.5MM Buna Ns.

The 11MM O-rings are slightly larger and provide a slightly tighter fit, so I PREFER THEM, but either one seems to work fine. McMaster Carr.

Oil-Resistant Buna-N O-Ring
2.5 mm Wide, 11 mm ID
$9.94 per pack of 100
9262K234


I have used these O-rings and Backup Rings from McMaster Carr on the lines that connect to the valves:

Oil-Resistant Buna-N O-Ring
1/16 Fractional Width, Dash Number 013
$4.37 per pack of 100
9452K57

Oil-Resistant Buna-N Backup Rings
0.053" Wide, for Dash Number 011
$2.60 per pack of 100
5288T117



I also replace the spring at the bottom of the valves with Cub Cadet PN 732-3059

I have encountered several valves that did not "self-center" properly. Replacing this spring has restored proper function to each valve so I now replace the springs on every valve that I rebuild.

When you take the valve/s out of the tractor, PAY ATTENTION TO WHICH WAY THE ARROW/S ON TOP POINT. You want to install them the same way when you put it back together(assuming they worked properly when you took them apart)
Joel, is it possible that the McMaster Carr part number 9452K57 is incorrect? I ordered that part and am currently rebuilding my valve and it seems way too big. It looks like I need something closer to a dash 011 instead of 013. The backup ring 5288T117 looks correct and that is a back up ring for a dash 011. I'm thinking I need to order McMaster Carr part number 9452K19 instead. Any thoughts or suggestions would greatly appreciated! Thanks!
 

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Joel, is it possible that the McMaster Carr part number 9452K57 is incorrect? I ordered that part and am currently rebuilding my valve and it seems way too big. It looks like I need something closer to a dash 011 instead of 013. The backup ring 5288T117 looks correct and that is a back up ring for a dash 011. I'm thinking I need to order McMaster Carr part number 9452K19 instead. Any thoughts or suggestions would greatly appreciated! Thanks!
The line O-rings are 011. These:

The spool O-rings are these:

 

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I ordered these items to rebuild 5 spool valves.
The 11mm x 16mm look to work fine for the two internal orings on the valve rod.
The 5/16 x 7/16 look to be fine for the primary line to valeve orings.
The 013 7/16 x 9/16 orings do not seem to be usable anywhere in the rebuild. - they are far to large of diameter to be the back up orings.
Do I have the application of these correct or am I missing something?????


2506990
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
The 7/16 ID x 9/16 OD are very similar in size to the 11MM ID x 16 MM OD and COULD be used on the spool, but I prefer the 11 x 16s
 

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The 7/16 ID x 9/16 OD are very similar in size to the 11MM ID x 16 MM OD and COULD be used on the spool, but I prefer the 11 x 16s
Got it - so I did not need to order those 7/16 ID x 9/16.
What size do I use for primary line seal and which size is the back up o-ring?

Thanks
Tom
 

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Last two items in bold print in my original post.
Oil-Resistant Buna-N O-Ring
1/16 Fractional Width, Dash Number 013
$4.37 per pack of 100
9452K57


That is the 7/16 x 9/16 size that I do not seems working for the back up o-ring.

The one below seems to work for priamary o-ring seal for the lines
Oil-Resistant Buna-N Backup Rings
0.053" Wide, for Dash Number 011
$2.60 per pack of 100
5288T117


So my question is what is the part number I need for the backup o-ring?

Sorry if I seem lost, but I am. :)
Tom
 

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When you put your back up rings on make sure the cup is towards the oring and the flat side is towards the line flange. They have 2 different sides.
 
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Oil-Resistant Buna-N O-Ring
1/16 Fractional Width, Dash Number 013
$4.37 per pack of 100
9452K57


That is the 7/16 x 9/16 size that I do not seems working for the back up o-ring.

The one below seems to work for priamary o-ring seal for the lines
Oil-Resistant Buna-N Backup Rings
0.053" Wide, for Dash Number 011
$2.60 per pack of 100
5288T117


So my question is what is the part number I need for the backup o-ring?

Sorry if I seem lost, but I am. :)
Tom
The back up ring is also 011.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Sorry for the confusion,(that I caused) I did not list the correct PN.

This is the correct McMaster Carr PN for the line O-Rings, but it appears to be out of stock.

Oil-Resistant Buna-N O-Ring
1/16 Fractional Width, Dash Number 011
9452K19


Steve's Post #8 gives an alternate source.

You put a Back Up ring on the line first, with the concave side facing the end of the line and then put an O-ring on.

2507006
 

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Do I need one ore 2 springs per valve?
Just 1. Here's me rebuilding one if it helps. Don't do what I was doing at 1:38. The spool doesn't operate in that range of movement. move it up and down after putting the snap ring on to check for movement

 
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