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Rebuilding a Wardco Two Spool Hydraulic Valve

8350 Views 5 Replies 3 Participants Last post by  PaulV
So lets take some of the mystery out of hydraulic valves.
I completely took this thing apart as I said before because of some rather interesting stuff I found inside. I did leave the relief valve alone as there was no need to take it apart.
Here are the pictures.


Segments separated.

A bit of corrosion happening between the aluminum ends and the bolts that hold the whole thing together.

See what I mean.

This one is the loader arm valve.

Bucket valve.

The preliminary cleaning is done, I thought I had some scotch brite pads at work but no. I'll bring some in tomorrow and give the bodies a good scrubbing and prep them for painting. The aluminum I'll leave as is.
I guess I need to go back to the hydraulic shop and get some more orings too.

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I did finally just figure out what's wrong with one of the spool valves though. I kept reading that the loader arm valve has a built in float position. The evidence of that is the longer aluminum cap. However mine wouldn't stay in the float position so I started thinking maybe mine doesn't have float.
While doing some more cleaning tonight I was looking at the parts and thought it has to have a float position but why is it not working.
Answer, because the detente ball that holds the spool in the float position is missing.
I'll have to size it up and get a replacement. At least I'll have float for leveling material.

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Once everything is apart and all the o rings removed clean up can begin in earnest. Don't forget this one BTW.

Here's some of my o ring removal tools from my nuclear days.

Here unfortunately is where my OCD kicks in. There's some raised metal along some of the edges and ground in dirt on the two aluminum end caps, the dirt isn't really a big deal because it's outside of the o ring sealing area. The raised metal edges have to go because they might keep the two pieces from mating properly and effect the seal.

I hit the raised metal with a jewelers file and ran the aluminum block on a lapping plate with some 400 grit paper. Only just enough to clean it up some.

I did the same thing to the cast iron segments, minus the file because there wasn't any raised metal.

I can't see letting the cast iron pieces go unpainted even though they didn't look like they were painted before but before I can do that I need to mask off all the machined surfaces. For the holes on the ends where the levers are I cut out a plug from an old thick gasket and carefully fit it in.
Carefully masking off for paint is the second hardest part of painting.

Fresh coat of paint.

After letting the pieces sit for a few hours I took all the tape off. It's easier to do this now than after the paint has fully hardened. Then the number one hardest part of painting, letting the paint dry.
I have the pieces sitting on the transformer at work, I use this to help the paint dry nice and hard because it's a constant 98 degrees. They will stay there over night.

Tomorrow I'll do some fine clean up of the paint and start assembling the valves. I bought all new o rings yesterday.
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Well it's tomorrow and the paint is nice and dry. First up is to clean up any paint that got under the tape. I'm still using up my blue painters tape and it's getting kind of old so it bleeds easier.

I'll start at one end and work my way over to the other with the segments and then assemble the internals of the spool valves. You can do the spools first then the segments also but the way I'm doing it gives me something bigger to hang onto when doing the spools. Which ever way makes the most sense to you is fine.
I put the three bolts that hold the assembly together through the end cap and set it on end, this will make the subsequent assembly easier and it helps with keeping the o rings in place. A word about that, if you have o rings that won't stay in their grooves then a little silicone grease on them will do the trick.

Here's the first segment. Notice the o ring groove is oval, a round o ring fits and stays just fine. No lube required.

Set the next segment in place and install the orings.

And again for the next segment.

Place the last end cap on then the washers and nuts. Torque the nuts to 90-100 inch pounds. I found the torque value and IPL for the spool valve in the manual for a sears GT.

Now for the spools. Apply a little silicone grease to the end o ring and squeeze it into the inside grove. A good set of picks like I used to remove the old o rings will be needed to work the o ring around and seat it in it's grove.

Do the same for the other end and slide the spacers and detent spacer over their spools.

Carefully slide the spool assembly into its segment and bottom it out on the spacers. Repeat this for the second spool.

Install the end caps. The longer one goes to the spool valve set up for the float function.

Install the actuator handles and your pretty much ready to install it back on the loader.
A previous owner had installed bolts in the handles but there is supposed to be pins with a locking clip. I need to get a set on my next trip to the hardware store but for now I have screws hold the handles in place.

I also need to replace the detent ball in mine and once done it will need to be adjusted enough to hold the handle in place but also be easily released manually per the instructions from the same manual.
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I have the same WARDCO 2-Spool valve. Do you have the parts list for the O-rings you rebuild it with? I don't have a micrometer but took some measurements to get close. No Hydraulic repair shop/parts supplier so I'll have to order online. Not a big deal if I get the correct measurements. Could you send them to me if you have them? Otherwise I'll just go with the closest.

This control valve is for the loader on my old FarmKing.

Thanks, Doug.
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Help..I have a John Deeere mod. 60 skid steer loader. The bucket dump spool on the hydraulic valve does not center when it is suppose to. Spring load seems to be broken... Does anyone know which valve would replace it??? The J.D. part # GG170-33643. Obsolete they tell me... There should be another valve out there to replace it... Any suggestions..
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