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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've been looking around at finding and restoring a 1614, basically because I like the tire size ratio between front and back better. I found a 2614 locally and would like to know if the rear wheels from a 1614 can be swapped out for the 2414? Since the radius difference is only 5 inches, what effect would there be if the wheels are interchangable. Are they?

Many thanks.

Tom
 

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The big problem is that the 16XX have 6 lug wheels and the 24XX have 5 lug wheels. It could be dont but you would need a few things.
 

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Hi,

There are a few things that must be changed to convert a 24" to a 16" model and vice versa:

Rear axle flanges/hubs-24" are 5 on a 4.5" bc, 16" are 6 on 6" bc
Front sprindles-24" models are taller than 16" models.
Obviously rear wheels and tires.
There may be other parts, but most others parts are interchangeable.

All of these are are generally available on ebay or other sources.

In my opinion, If you want a 16" model, I would wait for a 16" one.
Generally 24" models demand higher $$.

Good luck

chuckbob
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Excellent information guys. I appreciate it.

The 2414 I'm looking at has a replacement Kohler; a front blade, wheel weights, single trans, hydraulics and a 48" mower deck for under $800. I might be the second owner but the guy said to bring boots to see it as it's been "outside for awhile".


Price sounds reasonable but the "outside" thing is questionable. We'll see.
 

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At first I was thinking that for 800 that was a deal with all that. If its been outside and you need boots it may not be worth it though. I would go llok at it and the condition of the sheet metal on the tractor and attachments as well. Take lots of pics!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I figure I'll confirm the sheet metal, three point; tires, the smoothness of the tranny and everything I can see from the outside. Any hints on checking the rear end (gear drive) or any internals without a tear down?

I'm also going to see if the unit is worth more parted out than whole.

Pics will be posted!
 

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I don't think you can check the rear without removing covers. When you go also check, steering column for movement, play in the steering wheel, front hub bearings, spindle bearings (deck), wiring, if the hydraulic system is complete, and if the plow has all the lift componets and bracketry. Was the tractor on craigslist? Sometimes an ad can say more then you might think.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
The items you mentioned are on my list. $800 seems like a good deal if "I could drive it home" so to speak. The seller (from Craigslist) told me the pertinent details (the ad was very sparse as it didn't list model, condition, etc) and it sounds like previous callers schooled him on what potential buyers would ask (for example the mention of a single tranny).

I figure the look see will get me out of the house and give me another upclose on PK in general. I've been following the brand (I'm a Wheel Horse guy with a 1067 and a 310-8) but I'm still learning the ins and outs. Originally, I was going to stay with the WH brand (a guy around the corner from me has a D-180) but when I asked him what he was going to do with it (the tractor was sitting outside also), he replied that he wouldn't sell it because he was going to restore it. Anyone want to bet it will be in the same place yet totally ruined in 5 years?
 

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Everything mentioned above are good points to check. These machines are very basic and fairly easy to work on and repair. It's rare when you find one that cannot be restored as the major components are very robust. The 1614 would make a better mowing and general yard machine for you as it has a better center of gravity and is more stable if that's what you plan to do with it. A 2414 is more for major garden work as the taller tractor will provide better traction when cultivating loose soil around tall plants. As far as converting one, you will need what chuckbob mentioned.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I agree on the center of gravity. My intent is to mow the pastures in the summer with it (some hills and rolling land thus the advantage of lower COG, and push snow on my 1500 foot driveway in the winter. I currently plow with the 1986 310-8, but when you add up all the "up and backs" plowing a gravel drive that length, the mileage adds up over time (component wear).

I figure the PK would be a good replacement / alternative for my aging fleet of Wheel Horses, and this one has what I need for both jobs.
 

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The items you mentioned are on my list. $800 seems like a good deal if "I could drive it home" so to speak. The seller (from Craigslist) told me the pertinent details (the ad was very sparse as it didn't list model, condition, etc) and it sounds like previous callers schooled him on what potential buyers would ask (for example the mention of a single tranny).

I figure the look see will get me out of the house and give me another upclose on PK in general. I've been following the brand (I'm a Wheel Horse guy with a 1067 and a 310-8) but I'm still learning the ins and outs. Originally, I was going to stay with the WH brand (a guy around the corner from me has a D-180) but when I asked him what he was going to do with it (the tractor was sitting outside also), he replied that he wouldn't sell it because he was going to restore it. Anyone want to bet it will be in the same place yet totally ruined in 5 years?
Well, use his unkowing to your advantage. If something is missing or broken, over qoute him the price it would be to get fixed if it gets it cheaper. Like dave said, they are robust and on the occasion something does break parts are redilly avalible.
 

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I agree on the center of gravity. My intent is to mow the pastures in the summer with it (some hills and rolling land thus the advantage of lower COG, and push snow on my 1500 foot driveway in the winter. I currently plow with the 1986 310-8, but when you add up all the "up and backs" plowing a gravel drive that length, the mileage adds up over time (component wear).

I figure the PK would be a good replacement / alternative for my aging fleet of Wheel Horses, and this one has what I need for both jobs.
Mowing hills, plowing long driveway, the lower center of gravity definitely calls for 16in wheels. The smaller diameter wheel will put more horsepower to the ground especially when plowing when you need it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I'm always amazed why owners of any tractor (lawn, garden or otherwise) store their equipment outside. Maybe it's barn space or something, but I don't like to subject my equipment (of any type including three point implements) exposed to the outside climate changes. If this piece of equipment has been sitting "next to the barn" for any length of time, the elements play heck with everything. The two Wheel Horses I have were barn finds but with a minor washing, I could se what needed fixed. With outside equipment, the sky's the limit on things that have froze up.

Maybe because I'm old I understand how better my joints work when I sleep indoors versus in a tent. Ask the Tinman how much oil Dorothy used in getting him lubed up.

That sounds a little risque...:)
 

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Especially with power kings, its probably bad inside. The t-92 transmission used lets water run right down the stick into the case! When the tranny gets full of fluid it runs down the drive tube, into the differential. When the differential gets full it leaks into the final drives. so everything probably has water in it, so everything (or close to it) is probably frozen... being because of rust, or actual frozen water.

EDIT: if the seller doesn't mind bring a 1/2 socket and ratchet to take off the differential cover. that's the only cover you can take off without major parts taken off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Man...I love this forum. The more I exchange thoughts with you guys, the lower my offer goes. Nice advice on the water / tranny issue.

I'll let you know the sellers opinion. Maybe I can buy just the attachments.


Anyone looking for a snow blade / wheel weights / 48" mower deck?

I'll make sure I followup after I see this tractor.
 

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Just tell him the problems straight out, don't suger coat it. If you get it you could part it out and make a good amount of money, assuming everything is good condition. Do you know what year it is?
 

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Hi,

Another thought with the rear wheel changeover is that the bolt pattern for the 5 on 4.5 bc is a common automotive bolt pattern for Ford cars in the '50/60/70 and probably newer. So if you're not a purist you could put 15" rear rubber on it fairly inexpensively. To lower the front would take spindles from the 16" model.

chuckbob
 

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Another option (if you find the tractor to be a good buy) is to machine the lug bolt centers out of the 24 and 16 inch rims and weld the 6 hole to the 16 inch rims.

Also consider modifying the front axle for chassis height. Otherwise you'll have that old school gasser look by lowering the rear axle height 4 to 6 inches depending on size and tread of the tires.
 

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Another option (if you find the tractor to be a good buy) is to machine the lug bolt centers out of the 24 and 16 inch rims and weld the 6 hole to the 16 inch rims.

Also consider modifying the front axle for chassis height. Otherwise you'll have that old school gasser look by lowering the rear axle height 4 to 6 inches depending on size and tread of the tires.
I had that done with 12 inch rims. I needed 6 lug for my 75 and tiger to pull. 12 inch wheels only come in 5 lug. It will be cheaper for you if you cut out some of the center in a 16 inch wheel and get a plate water jetted out to weld in, assuming you have somebody else make them for you. i can post pics on my wheels in a little while.
 
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