My Tractor Forum banner
  • Are you passionate about Tractors? Would you like to write about topics that interest you and get paid for it? Read all about it here!
1 - 4 of 4 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
453 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've been thinking of making a rear blade or a belly, grader blade for my garden tractor.
I would mainly use it to level out a truck load of gravel for the driveway, and some leveling in the vegi garden.
Which would be of more use? Belly or rear mount?
I was thinking of using an old engine stand, with the heavy pivot, for the plow pivot.
Well today at a couple of yard sales, I found an engine stand for $5 and a complete snow plow from a Polaris, for $10!!!!!
I was leaning toward the rear mount, so after leveling, the rear tires don't have to run over the area, you just leveled.
Any ideas?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,410 Posts
Hi my experience is that a belly blade does a better job of leveling and you can see the blade and whats happening easier. With the rear blade when the tracor wheel go over something higher the blade really moves do to the longer arm. Rear blade has its advantages as it can be rotated around and be used to get in close to a wall or corner etc.
I have a rear blade an am thinking of building a center one.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
117 Posts
I would think if you want to go with a rear blade for leveling. a set of gage wheels behind the blade would be a real advantage for a one pass smooth leveling. Just my thoughts.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
23,338 Posts
Both blades have their purpose, the rear blade for spreading material in quantity and the belly blade for levelling.

Rear blades are generally mounted on 3PH's that float. Great for spreading material as the blade can be adjusted with the top link to allow the material to pass under it at a set rate while following the ground contour. If the 3PH is made so that it can't float, the blade will follow the motion of the front and rear wheels. When the front wheel encounter a rise in ground contour, the blade will dig in, and when the front wheels encounter a dip, the blade will rise off the ground. The reverse holds for when the rear wheels meet the same conditions. The result is a worsening of the dips and rises of the surface.

A belly blade needs to have limited vertical motion when in use to be of any real purpose. As the front wheels rise, so goes the blade, filling in the low area just in front of the rise. As the front wheels go down into a dip, the blade will clip off the top of the rise and the rear wheels don't have as drastic an effect since the ground is closer to level for them.

Front end weighting is needed for a belly blade or steering can be a problem.

Small bites work better than large bites.

Likewise, a longer wheel base is better. See the reference above for guage wheels on a rear mounted blade. Although this method requires more manoeuvering space, it will result in a better job done a quite a bit faster. I built one as a tow behind unit many years ago. It worked alright, sorta. It needed more weight to do a good job.
 
1 - 4 of 4 Posts
Top