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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I finally got everything almost perfect on my 332 and noticed a small puddle of oil in the right rear inside wheel rim. I wiped it off not knowing exactly what had caused it but a day later it is back. Can anyone tell me how much effort it is to replace the rear axle seal on this tractor? After looking at the picture on the JD parts catalog I see only one seal per side and it is located on the transmission where the axle goes into it inside of the axle holder. Is this job as hard as it looks? Also, if I overfilled the tranny with fluid would that have anything to do with the drip? I show right at the top of the glass indicator for the fluid level.
 

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It is not a bad job.Simply remove the axle housing on that side to gain access.
If it winds up being too much I can do it for a fee.I too am in Georgia.If interested PM me.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Is this the housing that you are talking about? Can it be removed without taking the entire tranny out? Do I have to drain all of the new oil out? I would appreciate any more help you can provide since I have an arm and a leg in this thing already. Looking at the picture I included can you tell me if this is the housing you are talking about and if I can remove it with just bolts removed that are shown in the picture? Also what holds the axle in? I did not see any clips or retainer rings to hole it in.
Rudy
 

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I don't mind helping at all,
Yes that is the housing I was speaking of.
It may be POSSIBLE but not sure it is a good idea.
I would disconnect the drive shaft,two top lines going to the hydro.Then disconnect brake linkage.
Then place a floor jack under the rear end and remove bolts that attach it to the frame.
May/may not need to remove the rockshaft,I am thinking not but can't remember.
Then when it is on the floor I would remove both axle housings and slide the entire assemblies out axles and all.
If one is leaking I would go ahead and do both unless the other was replaced recently.
It is pretty straight forward.If you have any questions ask away.

AJ
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I didn't get a chance to see your advice because I figured that I might never get the info I needed. I went and took a look at it and JD might not be the most intelligent design but they do keep it simple. I took the wheel off and then the brake shoe and bracket. Then I took the brake actuator arm bolts out that are on top of the axle. At that point I could pull the axle out of the housing.Then I undid the six bolts that hold the axle housing out but realized that I would have to take off the tow bar frame from the tranny. Once I did that the whole thing came right out and there was the seal waiting to be pulled out. To put it back together without hurting the new seal the trick is to leave the axle out of the housing and then it will not damage the seal during installation. It wasn't that bad of a job but it is messy and I will have to replace all of the Hy-Guard when it's done. Below are some pictures so that one of you may find it useful if you ever need to replace this seal. I ordered a new one from Green parts for $18.95. BTW, I found brand new brake shoes and springs when I took it apart so that might explain the bad seal.
 

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Sorry if I'm being a bit dense tonight but what exactly does it mean to "To put it back together without hurting the new seal the trick is to leave the axle out of the housing and then it will not damage the seal during installation."
I know the concern is the splined end of axle shaft will damage seal when pushed through but it has to get through somehow. I guess I thought you could wrap take around splines but then I can't see how to get housing on? Anyone or OP help please.
 
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