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Discussion Starter #41
Also...I tried turning the spring adjustment bolt in both directions and it does not seem to make much difference... What way is supposed to increase ground pressure? Turning the nut in, or out? (for the tension adjustment weight spring thingy lol)
You need to put less tension on the spring, so unscrew the nut as if you were taking it off but not all the way off. Are you loosening both sides?
 

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Discussion Starter #42
The handlebar location for the actual adjustment of the angle is a bit odd...to far forward if you use it lots...

I'm gonna do some cutting and welding to mine as well. I'm going to make an adjustable handlebar that sits much closer to the rider...
When I was googling for images of the snow blade, I saw one that had a really short stem on the handlebars. It looked like you might be able to use your feet instead to turn the blade. Maybe shorten the stem so the handlebars are down by your feet. I would not want to have the handlebars in my line of sight.

That said, I'm pretty sure you would be able change the blade angle without leaving the seat just by releasing the lock and steering while dragging the blade on the ground.
 

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Discussion Starter #43
It was important to me for the snow blade to weigh as much or more than the mower deck so that the springs don't need to be readjusted every time I swap them...
The obvious downside to this is that the weight cantilevered out front will mean less weight on the back wheels which means less traction for steering. I most likely will need to add a counterweight on the back bumper and/or the rear wheels. It will however put more weight on the front wheels to aid traction.

If you don't add more weight to the blade and choose to adjust the springs, you could just count and record the number of turns so that it can be set back to where it was for mowing and not have to drag out a scale to weigh it.

A smart Husqvarna engineer could have designed the springs with cams so they could easily be disabled for use with the snow blade.
 

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Oh! There is springs on both sides!! Silly me lol. Ok, I will try that. And loosen it by turning the nut out right?

"A smart Husqvarna engineer..." I'm starting to wonder if these guys actually use their stuff, or just design it? Seems like to obvious errors that using the machine (and having to actually pay for it) woudl help them to make an even better machine.

The bar in the view is not a problem at all. Its set off a little to the left as well. I saw the one on youtube where the guy used his foot to adjust it. Honestly, I think that would be kind silly. Its pretty slick to be able to adjust the blade from the seat with your hands.

If I put a cab on...I'll have to remove the blade adjuster all-to-gether and just get out and adjust it. I was thinking of making some kind of fancy u-joint blade adjustment with different pivot points so it could come into the cab...kinda like rotating the chute on a snowblower...but I think its going to be more complex than I have time for right now.
 

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Discussion Starter #45
The weather today was conducive to painting (don't have a heated shop) so I took off the yellow painted snow blade and painted the backside of it black so it won't glare from the headlight. Also took out the clutch block-off plate and painted it black.

I added the pics to my Google Photos drive (link posted earlier) and attached a thumbnail below.
 

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LLigetfa, good job again! The back of the blade looks like a factory paint job in black! Did you spray bomb it?? If so, wow!

I must admit...I'm not sure how your PTO lockout works when you drop the blade? Can you explain it again?

I'm running the factory blade, and though the blade is not being used...I can hear the PTO turn on when I drop the blade. The belt has no tension on it, but the pulley still turns and I'd imagine this will wear a flat spot in the belt it if I use the blade in the lowered position for an extended time?

Thanks!!
 

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Discussion Starter #47
LLigetfa, good job again! The back of the blade looks like a factory paint job in black! Did you spray bomb it?? If so, wow!
Yes, rattle can.

I must admit...I'm not sure how your PTO lockout works when you drop the blade? Can you explain it again?
There is a long linkage rod running from that triangular plate back to the clutch which is engaged by a strong spring. You fight against the spring by pulling on the rod when you raise the blade. The block-off plate holds the rod in the clutch disengaged position to serve two purposes. 1) There is no need to engage and disengage the clutch repeatedly when plowing. 2) The effort to lift the blade is less if you don't have to fight the clutch spring.

I too had concern about needless wear on the clutch components. Every time as the clutch is engaged, there is a bit of slippage on the clutch pulley as the belt comes up to speed. After it is engaged, there is slippage at the transfer pulley. The belt tensioning roller bearings, the transfer pulley bearings, and the linkage rod ends all wear needlessly.

IMHO, Husqvarna should have designed and supplied a block-off plate or some sort of pin.

As mentioned, the plate was made from 1" angle iron. The cut-away parts were so it would fit into the rectangular hole that it covers. There is a notch to clear the support block for the hydro lines. The holes in the frame had to have threads tapped for the bolts. One bolt should be enough but I used two.
 

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Discussion Starter #49
While the couple of inches of snow we got didn't really warrant taking out the plow, I just had to give it a go to see how well it worked. Usually I will drive over and pack the first snow to keep from scraping up gravel. I think the blade will be a tad too light but it saved from scraping up gravel for now. I few places I just back bladed.

The angle adjustment from the seat worked as I had expected. The lift lever is a little too low so I will need to move the hairpin on the lift chain down a link. I use the lift lever to feather the down-pressure and so it is a bit of a reach.

Anyway... here are a couple of pics. Of course, the dog had to photobomb them.
 

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Nice pics LLigetfa. Thanks again. Hardcore with the black back and yellow front! Looks like a commercial spec blade!

If your going to change the lift lever pin...is this something you'll have to do each time you swap the mower deck back on?

I'm going to make a bolt on cutting edge for my OEM Kova blade on Tuesday. The blade has the bolt holes already drilled in the weld on cutting edge of the blade, and the bolt on edge I'm going to make I will use 1/4" steel and make it 1-1/2" lower than the stock position...I'm hoping this will be enough so I don't have to adjust the spring tension bolts as right now the blade hovers 1/4" off the ground.

Do you think a cutting edge from mild steel will be ok? I'd imagine that's all that the blade is made from and what is currently on the machine?

I'd use stainless or galvanized...but they only come as thick as 1/8" I think at my local shop.
 

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Discussion Starter #51
I had moved the hairpin up to lift the mower deck higher when I first got it. It only takes a few seconds to do.

My blade has a 1/4 inch thick cutting edge. If you plow a concrete driveway, the ferrous metal cutting edge will leave rust marks where it scuffs the concrete. A stainless steel blade would make sense in that case but they are very hard to drill bolt holes in. You might try to find a shop with a water jet cutter or a punch press and make square holes for carriage bolts.
 

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Discussion Starter #53
My plow has adjustable skid shoes but I will be raising them once there is a snow pack base so the cutting edge can scrape better but then I have a gravel driveway. There are UHMW skid shoes available as well as UHMW cutting edges that won't mark concrete driveways.
 

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Mine has the skid shoes as well, but I have mine cranked up and it still floats.

Actually, even after loosening the bolts all the way back (both sides this time ;-) ) it still does not fully contact like it should.

I will see how the new lower cutting edge works. Should work perfect.
 

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Nope lol.

But I'm getting my additional bolt on cutting edge (made with 3/16" stainless steel!) that sits 2" lower...and I also changed the "angle of attack" by putting a bend in the metal to be more aggressive for the cutting edge.

I'm really thinking (hoping) this should make it work like a champ and allow me to leave the springs at factory setting.

With 2-3 inches of snow this blade makes quick work of my 5500sqft concrete driveway. Love it! But for anything past 3-4" the snowblower is king.

Speaking of...I saw a dual-stage unit for sale on kijiji in Ontario for the R322T...but she looks rough (rusty SOB) and the guy still wants $750. There is a NOS (new old stock) on kijiji a while back in Quebec for $1200 I want to say. That is a SMOKIN deal as they are over $2k new to my understanding.
 

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Somebody put electric lift on rider 322t and snowblower ? Not easy to lift each time a go reverse ?
Holymoly! I agree! I was out plowing again today and man it gives you a good arm workout lifting the blade and ESPECIALLY the blower.

I'm not sure how to rig electric lift (or if its ever been done) but I was thinking if I could try and and rig an extension to the lift handle to give more leverage, kind of like a snipe for ratchet.

My wife basically can not use this thing for snow removal. She physically can't lift the lever back to lift the blade or blower. This my friends is a poor design.
 

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For the R322T, the difficult lifting problem can be solved by extending the lift handle.
Seems like it would work on your R322TX too.
Take a look at Mr. Dan Bollinger's Post #1859 on the following link.......
https://www.mytractorforum.com/64-h...husqvarna-rider-322t-awd-124.html#post8368401
Hey, awesome, thank you!

I never thought about the tension spring as acting as a "helping hand" if you will. I turned mine all the way to the back to get the most ground pressure...but it sounds like that might be counterproductive at least in respect to lifting the front end weight.

Good news...I got the stainless steel cutting edge installed and there was 1/2" of ice on my entire driveway. I kid you not, this blade is as sharp as a knife blade (it will cut your hand if you run your finger against it!). The blade is now about 2" lower than before, and at a more aggressive angle. I will try and take some photos this weekend.

Needless to say, it lifted the ice right up and I had an ice-free 5500sqft concrete driveway in about 30 minutes. My mind was blown!

I'm going to adjust the spring pressure back to where it was, get it to the proper weight...and now that the blade is that much lower, it should work perfectly giving me a nice clean cut on the driveway, and also an easier to lift handle (after I turn back the spring pressure).

Though I will see if I can rig some kind of extension as suggested by b12 and Dan.B

Thanks all!
 
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