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Jesus Saves
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just acquired a JD 2640 with a Side arm Hydraulic Boom Mower. I did not expect to have this but needed one for mowing around the ponds and RR dummylines on the farm. I haven't operated it as yet as it is actually sitting at the family farm.

Can anyone show what the shift pattern is with 8 forward 4 reverse?

Is there a dipstick on the rear to check the transmission fluid level?

Does anyone have access to an owner's manual?

I have found the manual on the JD website but it must be out of print as no dealer seems to have one.

Any help is appreciated.

Thanks
 

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Repair manual from I & T will tell you all you need to know. # JD202 and it's $30.

In general, most of the Deere Dubuque tractors are the same. Much depends on what options your tractor has. Stick on left has high range, low range, reverse and park. Stick on right has 1-2-3-4. With some tractors, high-range is blocked in reverse.

Left stick -left-forward is for Park, right-forward is low-range
left-rearward is for high-range, right rearward is for reverse

Right stick- left forward is 1st or 5th (depending on what range you're in)
right forward is for 4th or 8th
left rearward is for 2nd or 6th
right rearward is for 3rd or 7th

Options could be a hydraulic reverser, hydraulic hi-low, independent PTO, or clutch-driven PTO

Trans and hydraulic are common sump and there is a dipstick.
 

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Jesus Saves
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Repair manual from I & T will tell you all you need to know. # JD202 and it's $30.

In general, most of the Deere Dubuque tractors are the same. Much depends on what options your tractor has. Stick on left has high range, low range, reverse and park. Stick on right has 1-2-3-4. With some tractors, high-range is blocked in reverse.

Left stick -left-forward is for Park, right-forward is low-range
left-rearward is for high-range, right rearward is for reverse

Right stick- left forward is 1st or 5th (depending on what range you're in)
right forward is for 4th or 8th
left rearward is for 2nd or 6th
right rearward is for 3rd or 7th

Options could be a hydraulic reverser, hydraulic hi-low, independent PTO, or clutch-driven PTO

Trans and hydraulic are common sump and there is a dipstick.
Thanks for the shift pattern. I found the dipstick for the rear end. Cannot get it into the park gear. Is there a trick to get into park?

It has an independent PTO with the valve for the independent PTO in between the 2 gear shifters. Down turns the PTO on and up turns it off. When you have the PTO on, the steering becomes hard to turn like the power steering is not getting fluid to it. Is there a filter or screen in the internal hydraulics that needs changing or cleaning?

All help is appreciated.
 

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The 2640 had a serial number break where the earlier(before 341,000) serial numbers had a park and the later(after341,000) had a parking brake on the left side of the seat. If it is a later serial number, there is no park gear. Does the pto work ok on the tractor? Some of these would break an internal oil line that feeds the pto clutch. Then it would leak oil internally when the pto is engaged and would lose oil to main hydraulic pump.
 

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Jesus Saves
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The 2640 had a serial number break where the earlier(before 341,000) serial numbers had a park and the later(after341,000) had a parking brake on the left side of the seat. If it is a later serial number, there is no park gear. Does the pto work ok on the tractor? Some of these would break an internal oil line that feeds the pto clutch. Then it would leak oil internally when the pto is engaged and would lose oil to main hydraulic pump.
It is the above serial number so that makes since. The pto works well as it runs the huge external hydraulic pump that feeds the telescopic side boom mower.the lift system has been locked down to prevent its use as the rear lower lift arms have been removed. They would be in the way of the mounting framework of the mower

Is there an internal hydraulic screen to service?
 

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Yes there is a screen. It is located behind the hydraulic filter. You should see a large, maybe 2 inch diameter plug that takes a 1/2 breaker bar to remove. Just remove the plug and the screen should slide out. Maybe 10 inches long.
 

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Jesus Saves
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
ANd where might the Hydraulic Filter be located? The only hydraulic filter I have is overhead on the rops for the pto mounted pump.

I havent seen any other filter?????????
 

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ANd where might the Hydraulic Filter be located? The only hydraulic filter I have is overhead on the rops for the pto mounted pump.

I havent seen any other filter?????????
It is UNDER the tractor...there are TWO drain plugs and the Intake Screen plug and hydraulic filter cover are sort of in between them, the Intake Screen plug appears to be a round disk with a square drive inset and directly behind it is the hydraulic filter cover...:rolleyes:

I'll try to get some pics tomorrow...;)
 

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Jesus Saves
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Pictures would be greatly appreciated
 

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Sorry for the delay...but things have been hectic on the farm...supervising the building of a 70x140 riding arena and trying to get in second and third cut hay and finally having to travel 2 1/2 hours one way to get a new car for the kid for college...:rolleyes:

The round thingy is the filter cover and it sits on the right hand side on the bottom of the tractor, relative position, just about under the seat...

The plug to the right of it in the picture is one of your hydraulic drains...

I'll try to get better shots tomorrow...:D
 

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Just to revive an old thread, but same subject...

I have a 2640 we picked up to bush hog around the farm. Just changed the oil, and need to change the air cleaner (horrible) and figure since there's no telling when the hydralic fluid was changed, that would probably be a good idea too.

The end cap just sits in the air cleaner, and it looks like air comes in through the bottom of the housing...shouldn't there be some kind of intake that gets air from somewhere a little more "out of the ground"? Also, while the outer filter was held on by a wing nut, the inner filter looks to be held in by a plastic disc of some sort. Not sure if it's a push fit or if it was threaded on and then someone broke something off. Can't find anything like it on the web. Anyone seen this and know the easiest way to get it off?

This is my first diesel, but I'm pretty handy with a wrench.

Obviously the hyd fluid filter cover is shown in the picture above. So I can pull that, put a new filter in there....drain plug is to the right? Where is the dipstick for the hydraulic fluid, and do you add fluid through the dipstick or ??? Hydraulic fluid capcity?

Lastly, how does one engage the diff lock? I see the lever, but it doesn't seem to want to move in any direction.

I figure I need to order a manual for this thing. Would I be best suited with the factory owners manual or an aftermarket service manual. Obviously the FSM would be best, but really trying to not spend an arm and a leg. Just trying to get the basics down now so I can get everything serviced up to mow one more time before I put it up for the winter.
 

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hyd oil dipstick(parts key 21) will be by operators right heel while sitting in seat. hyd oil filler is behind the seat by 3 pt center link bracket. hyd sump screen(parts key 30) should be checked/cleaned which requires draining hyd oil. hyd cap is about 8 gallons. Diff. lock pedal shafts have a history of getting frozen with little to no operation.
 

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Just to revive an old thread, but same subject...

I have a 2640 we picked up to bush hog around the farm. Just changed the oil, and need to change the air cleaner (horrible) and figure since there's no telling when the hydralic fluid was changed, that would probably be a good idea too.

The end cap just sits in the air cleaner, and it looks like air comes in through the bottom of the housing...shouldn't there be some kind of intake that gets air from somewhere a little more "out of the ground"? Also, while the outer filter was held on by a wing nut, the inner filter looks to be held in by a plastic disc of some sort. Not sure if it's a push fit or if it was threaded on and then someone broke something off. Can't find anything like it on the web. Anyone seen this and know the easiest way to get it off?

This is my first diesel, but I'm pretty handy with a wrench.

Obviously the hyd fluid filter cover is shown in the picture above. So I can pull that, put a new filter in there....drain plug is to the right? Where is the dipstick for the hydraulic fluid, and do you add fluid through the dipstick or ??? Hydraulic fluid capcity?

Lastly, how does one engage the diff lock? I see the lever, but it doesn't seem to want to move in any direction.

I figure I need to order a manual for this thing. Would I be best suited with the factory owners manual or an aftermarket service manual. Obviously the FSM would be best, but really trying to not spend an arm and a leg. Just trying to get the basics down now so I can get everything serviced up to mow one more time before I put it up for the winter.
The air filter is a push on, the filler for hydraulics will be behind the seat above 3 pt, check the linkages on the diff lock to make sure they aren't binding, apply brake & try to shift.

Ronnie
 

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hyd oil dipstick(parts key 21) will be by operators right heel while sitting in seat. hyd oil filler is behind the seat by 3 pt center link bracket. hyd sump screen(parts key 30) should be checked/cleaned which requires draining hyd oil. hyd cap is about 8 gallons. Diff. lock pedal shafts have a history of getting frozen with little to no operation.
I found the dipstick. Looks like my hyd oil is clear and full.

Found the filler. Opened up and it's clean inside, can't see any fluid, which I understand is normal.

That said, I have no idea how long the fluid has been in there.

So part 30 appears to be infront of and slightly below the right axle?

And there is another filter underneath as shown in upper5percent's pic?

Also, there is a dipstick mentioned for the rear end. Where would that be?

Any other fluids in this thing I need to check? (coolant, oil, hyd fluid and ???)

My diff lock doesn't have a pedal, only a lever. What would be the best way to try to free it up?

Thanks for the help.
 

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Both inner & outer air cleaner elements are held in place. inner by a nut(parts key 12) & outer by a thumbscrew(parts key 14)
I got it off. There wasn't a wing nut on the inner, just a plastic disc pushed up on there. Worked, but I'm going to get another wing nut when I order new filters.

What is that covering the openings in the bottom of the air cleaner (part #17 ). Mine just has two open holes there; looks like it would let way too much dirty air directly into the filter.
 

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Also, there is a dipstick mentioned for the rear end. Where would that be?

Any other fluids in this thing I need to check? (coolant, oil, hyd fluid and ???)

My diff lock doesn't have a pedal, only a lever. What would be the best way to try to free it up?

Thanks for the help.
dipstick(parts key 21) checks hyd oil for hyd,trans,power steering & differential. yes there should be coolant in rad. & engine block. On diff lock just apply a lot of your favorite penetrating oil to shaft.
 

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So part 30 appears to be infront of and slightly below the right axle?
Yes.
And there is another filter underneath as shown in upper5percent's pic?
Correct. Hydraulic filter element.

Also, there is a dipstick mentioned for the rear end. Where would that be?
Same dipstick, same oil as hydraulic. Check for correct level while engine is running at low idle speed.

My diff lock doesn't have a pedal, only a lever. What would be the best way to try to free it up?
Apply differential lock by moving lever(#1, in diagram below) away from transmission housing. Use penetrating oil at base of lever(where item # 3 enter transmission housing), to free up.

 

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What is that covering the openings in the bottom of the air cleaner (part #17 ). Mine just has two open holes there; looks like it would let way too much dirty air directly into the filter.
Parts key 17 is called an unloader valve, with engine stopped one can squeeze the pointed ends together so excess dust will drop out of canister
 

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Is there supposed to be one on both inlets on the bottom of the air filter, or just the one closest to the end cap? Does it hurt anything to run without it/ help to have it on there? Looks like they're fairly inexpensive.....

Thank yall for the replies. This tractor doesn't get used a lot, but I plan on keeping it for a long time and would prefer to maintain as opposed to repair.
 
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