Jack, a real good way to cook your hydro is to plug off the lines. If you don't want to make use of the circuit, route a single line between the 2 ports.
What GT do you have? Which hydro? Most hydros will put out 1 - 3 gpm for the implement lift hydraulics. Most automotive power steering pumps will flow 1.9 - 2.4 gpm. Not much gain involved for a lot of expensive and/or time consuming work. They do have an internal flow control and relief valve set at 1250 - 1450 psi for GM pumps and I hear that Dodge is now using the same pump.
Hydraulic pumps don't care how they are oriented, sideways, backwards, upside down or at an angle, as long as the input shaft turns the right direction and they get a sufficient supply of oil, they're happy.
Unless you're planning on using a much larger cylinder than the one you mentioned, there isn't any reason to add a pump. Stick with what you have. It's sized correctly for both volume and pressure.
If you plan on a hydraulic dump cart or log splitter, that's different. Build a complete system to do either of those jobs, but keep the implement lift system as it is, even with the new cylinder.
Good morning, Bob. I bought this old GT (a 1971 Wards/Gilson) in November for a Winter project, hoping it would make a good driveway maintenance tool. We have just under 2 acres, all landscaped, to maintain as well. My "project" is nearing completion, so I'm looking for ways to improve what I have. I built a driveway scraper/drag and I've converted the existing dozer blade to a scoop. Both work great and I'm happy with them, but there is still room for improvement.
I'm a tinkerer and always dreaming up new ways of doing things. One area that has room for improvement is power to raise the scoop/bucket. Thus the drive to learn about hydraulics. You've been a great help in that endeaver. Another area of improvement is to use separate power to the two implements by adding an actuator to raise the drag on the rear and using the hydraulics on the front only.
To answer your question, it is a Vickers, driven by driveshaft direct from the engine, rather then by belt. I don't know the model of Vickers. Both the engine and transmission are in VG condition. The hydrauic cylinder and hoses were leaking and I had new 2000 psi hoses made up and the cylinder re-built.
Earlier, I was contemplating changing the cylinder to a 2" bore, which would increase power to the bucket by about 50%. However, finding a cylinder that will fit has proven almost impossible. I could have one built, but I'm retired and funds are scarce. Then it occurred to me that I could accomplish the same thing by increasing pressure. If my Vickers has 500psi, increasing pressure to 1000 psi doubles the power available to the bucket (according to my calculations), but also makes the system faster (not a good thing). To solve that problem, I was wondering about a valve to restrict the flow. The pressure would be the same (I believe). I'm sure the lines can handle the added pressure, the cylinder can handle it, but not sure of the control valve. I can beef up the mechanical portions as necessary.
Anyway, this is all just in the thinking and research stage and if nothing sounds plausible, I'll be happy with it as it is. The bucket makes loading, hauling and dumping so much easier than shoveling by hand. I'll turn 72 next month and anything I can do to make things easier, will keep this old body from aching after a days work on the property.
If you're interested in seeing my old tractor and what I've done to it, there is a running gallery on my website here; http://www.metalsmithpro.com/Gilson.htm
. There are a number of threads in this forum showing my progress, too.
Thank you very much for all the advice and knowledge you given me.