I don't think your coil is the issue with your garden hose misfire, I expect it's the sparkplug wire leaking voltage. I could, of course, be wrong, but it seems to me that coil is making quite a bit of voltage ok.
Quality aftermarket coils for Kohler Command Engines?
I currently have 7 Tractors with Kohler Command engines. I had to replace coils(I replaced both even though only one failed) on one of them and I think I have another one that is bad now. I also have another one that may also have an issue.
From what I have read these coils (Ignition Module) are fairly failure prone.
First time around I bought genuine Kohler Coils, KH-24-584-45-S. They seem to be fine, but they are fairly expensive and I was wondering if others have used aftermarket coils with good results. If so, please provide a link to what you used and info on how long it/they have been in service.
Changing the coils is somewhat of a PITA since I have to pull the engine. I would like to save money if I can, but I don't want to use something that it likely to fail significantly faster than a genuine Kohler Coil.
QUESTION: On one of my tractors, if I spray down the spark plug area with a garden hose the cylinder will misfire for a while, then it seems to clear up after it runs for a little while. Is the coil what is probably causing this?
From what I have read these coils (Ignition Module) are fairly failure prone.
First time around I bought genuine Kohler Coils, KH-24-584-45-S. They seem to be fine, but they are fairly expensive and I was wondering if others have used aftermarket coils with good results. If so, please provide a link to what you used and info on how long it/they have been in service.
Changing the coils is somewhat of a PITA since I have to pull the engine. I would like to save money if I can, but I don't want to use something that it likely to fail significantly faster than a genuine Kohler Coil.
QUESTION: On one of my tractors, if I spray down the spark plug area with a garden hose the cylinder will misfire for a while, then it seems to clear up after it runs for a little while. Is the coil what is probably causing this?
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Why do you pull the engine to replace the coil?
I'm sure he's probably referring to a horizontal shaft engine. My Cub has a drive shaft that is mated to the flywheel side of a horizontal Kohler engine; pulling the engine may make it easier to remove the blower housing/baffles to gain access to the coil. This is not the case with a vertical shaft engine where nothing is mated to the flywheel so the whole top shroud is removed to gain access to the coil.Why do you pull the engine to replace the coil?
Thanks for the replies.I don't think your coil is the issue with your garden hose misfire, I expect it's the sparkplug wire leaking voltage. I could, of course, be wrong, but it seems to me that coil is making quite a bit of voltage ok.
I agree that it is probably plug wire related. The plug wire is an integral part of the Coil(Ignition Module)(I should have mentioned that as part of my original question) so I assume that replacing the "Coil Assembly" would be the remedy??
They are horizontal shaft motors(3000 Series and 5000 Series) It may be possible to replace coils without pulling the motors, but I think for me, it is easier to pull them.
I have looked at some YouTube videos and it looks like a fairly easy job on most vertical shaft motors, not so easy with horizontal shaft motors where the motor is recessed part way down between the frame rails.
I have done the coil job, it is a PITA
I currently have 7 Tractors with Kohler Command engines. I had to replace coils(I replaced both even though only one failed) on one of them and I think I have another one that is bad now. I also have another one that may also have an issue.
From what I have read these coils (Ignition Module) are fairly failure prone.
First time around I bought genuine Kohler Coils, KH-24-584-45-S. They seem to be fine, but they are fairly expensive and I was wondering if others have used aftermarket coils with good results. If so, please provide a link to what you used and info on how long it/they have been in service.
Changing the coils is somewhat of a PITA since I have to pull the engine. I would like to save money if I can, but I don't want to use something that it likely to fail significantly faster than a genuine Kohler Coil.
QUESTION: On one of my tractors, if I spray down the spark plug area with a garden hose the cylinder will misfire for a while, then it seems to clear up after it runs for a little while. Is the coil what is probably causing this?
I just purchased one of these about a month ago and installed on a 25hp 3235. So far so good. One thing of note is I could barely get the .012 gap to the flywheel magnets. Never was an issue with the OEM ignition modules. X2 on the PITA replacement.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ignition-Coil-Fits-KOHLER-24-584-01S-24-584-45-S-CH18-CH20-CH22-CH23-CH620-CH621/183380023329?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
Well the aftermarket coils are not working out very well for me.
I got 2 pairs of the AM coils, a pair that I bought last year(that were advertised as Genuine Kohler, but were not) and a pair that I ordered recently.
NONE of the 4 AM coils worked.
Fortunately I tried firing the engine before doing a complete reinstall each time I installed different coils.
I installed the pair from last year first. I had to trim a small amount of plastic from the coils to get them to fit on the coil mounting pads. Even with the trimming done, they could not be gapped the way the OEM coils are. Putting a curved .012" feeler gauge under the OEM coils would result in the gap being .012" under each pad on the coil. Doing that with the AM coils resulted in the center pad at .012" and the end pads about .015" if I spaced the end pads evenly. This did not result in the engine firing on either cylinder(w/2 new AM coils installed) and I tried playing with the gap without any success.
I then installed the second set of AM coils(they also required slight plastic trimming) and tried different gap settings, none of which provided any spark.
I was concerned that something besides the coils was causing the no spark issue, but when I reinstalled the one good OEM coil and a good(but old) OEM coil that I had replaced last year, it started and ran fine.
Fortunately I have a lift with a hoist directly over it so I was able to do all the work myself with a lot less effort than it would have been without the lift and hoist.
I now want to purchase some Genuine Kohler Coils Part # 24 584 45-S.
https://www.kohler-engine-parts.opeengines.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=11709
Has anyone purchased from OPEENGINES>COM? Good results?
Anywhere else that I can order from and be assured of getting Genuine Kohler Coils for a good price?
I got 2 pairs of the AM coils, a pair that I bought last year(that were advertised as Genuine Kohler, but were not) and a pair that I ordered recently.
NONE of the 4 AM coils worked.
Fortunately I tried firing the engine before doing a complete reinstall each time I installed different coils.
I installed the pair from last year first. I had to trim a small amount of plastic from the coils to get them to fit on the coil mounting pads. Even with the trimming done, they could not be gapped the way the OEM coils are. Putting a curved .012" feeler gauge under the OEM coils would result in the gap being .012" under each pad on the coil. Doing that with the AM coils resulted in the center pad at .012" and the end pads about .015" if I spaced the end pads evenly. This did not result in the engine firing on either cylinder(w/2 new AM coils installed) and I tried playing with the gap without any success.
I then installed the second set of AM coils(they also required slight plastic trimming) and tried different gap settings, none of which provided any spark.
I was concerned that something besides the coils was causing the no spark issue, but when I reinstalled the one good OEM coil and a good(but old) OEM coil that I had replaced last year, it started and ran fine.
Fortunately I have a lift with a hoist directly over it so I was able to do all the work myself with a lot less effort than it would have been without the lift and hoist.
I now want to purchase some Genuine Kohler Coils Part # 24 584 45-S.
https://www.kohler-engine-parts.opeengines.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=11709
Has anyone purchased from OPEENGINES>COM? Good results?
Anywhere else that I can order from and be assured of getting Genuine Kohler Coils for a good price?
I recently purchased a short block for a cub cadet weedeater. Engine fired right up after installing and was the best price I could find. Based on that order I would do business with them again.
I purchased a new Kohler coil a few years back from Pats Small Engine Plus , original part very good price. Google them for their website.
I ordered two coils (and an air cleaner to get to the free shipping threshold) from OPEENGINES.COM. I placed the order after 9 PM EST on Monday, 6/10/19, and they arrived this morning.
I have not installed/tried them yet, but they do appear to be Genuine Kohler Coils.
I have not installed/tried them yet, but they do appear to be Genuine Kohler Coils.
Joelk have you had an opportunity to try the ignition coils from OPEENGINES.COM and did you run into any issue getting the air gap set?I ordered two coils (and an air cleaner to get to the free shipping threshold) from OPEENGINES.COM. I placed the order after 9 PM EST on Monday, 6/10/19, and they arrived this morning.
I have not installed/tried them yet, but they do appear to be Genuine Kohler Coils.
Yeah, OPE is cool to deal with. You get good stuff, no screwing around. I recommend them.Well the aftermarket coils are not working out very well for me.
I got 2 pairs of the AM coils, a pair that I bought last year(that were advertised as Genuine Kohler, but were not) and a pair that I ordered recently.
NONE of the 4 AM coils worked.
Fortunately I tried firing the engine before doing a complete reinstall each time I installed different coils.
I installed the pair from last year first. I had to trim a small amount of plastic from the coils to get them to fit on the coil mounting pads. Even with the trimming done, they could not be gapped the way the OEM coils are. Putting a curved .012" feeler gauge under the OEM coils would result in the gap being .012" under each pad on the coil. Doing that with the AM coils resulted in the center pad at .012" and the end pads about .015" if I spaced the end pads evenly. This did not result in the engine firing on either cylinder(w/2 new AM coils installed) and I tried playing with the gap without any success.
I then installed the second set of AM coils(they also required slight plastic trimming) and tried different gap settings, none of which provided any spark.
I was concerned that something besides the coils was causing the no spark issue, but when I reinstalled the one good OEM coil and a good(but old) OEM coil that I had replaced last year, it started and ran fine.
Fortunately I have a lift with a hoist directly over it so I was able to do all the work myself with a lot less effort than it would have been without the lift and hoist.
I now want to purchase some Genuine Kohler Coils Part # 24 584 45-S.
https://www.kohler-engine-parts.opeengines.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=11709
Has anyone purchased from OPEENGINES>COM? Good results?
Anywhere else that I can order from and be assured of getting Genuine Kohler Coils for a good price?
If it is eating coils put a new ignition switch in it.
I have had 2-3 in different machines damage coils from the switch being flaky.
Also check you ground cables and grounds.
A flaky switch can accidentally let 12 v go to kill wire and even a split second of it can blow a coil regardless of genuine Kohler or aftermarket.
I have had 2-3 in different machines damage coils from the switch being flaky.
Also check you ground cables and grounds.
A flaky switch can accidentally let 12 v go to kill wire and even a split second of it can blow a coil regardless of genuine Kohler or aftermarket.
I have not installed the new coils that I got from OPE yet. The one original and the used one that I installed seem to be working fine, so far, so I'm planning to use them till I have an issue.If it is eating coils put a new ignition switch in it.
I have had 2-3 in different machines damage coils from the switch being flaky.
Also check you ground cables and grounds.
A flaky switch can accidentally let 12 v go to kill wire and even a split second of it can blow a coil regardless of genuine Kohler or aftermarket.
I do not think I would consider mine to be "eating coils", one failed after 800+ hours, but if one of my machines starts to do so, I will check the things you suggested.
On my 3240 seems like one of the coils is going out. I have a steep hill to mow and it seems to loose a lot of power trying to climb it. My other tractors seem to handle the hill fine and the 3240 was better about it last year than it is now.
It is the tractor that would misfire for a while when I sprayed water on one of the plug wires.
I plan to replace that coil with a new OEM coil.
Should I replace both coils while I have it apart?
If (good)coils were $15-$20, I would not think twice about it, but OEMs are closer to $45, or more.
If one coil goes bad, how likely is it that the other will soon fail?
Has anyone replaced one and still has the other one working fine years later?
It is the tractor that would misfire for a while when I sprayed water on one of the plug wires.
I plan to replace that coil with a new OEM coil.
Should I replace both coils while I have it apart?
If (good)coils were $15-$20, I would not think twice about it, but OEMs are closer to $45, or more.
If one coil goes bad, how likely is it that the other will soon fail?
Has anyone replaced one and still has the other one working fine years later?
While I agree that the insulation in your plug wire is starting to degrade if it misfires when the wire is wet I personally would do some checks before going thru the work involved in replacing a coil. Is the color of plug on that side indicate fouling? Does giving it some choke appear to help when it starts to bog? Do you have equal and good compression in both cylinders? Can you put a spark tester on it and run it up that hill at night and see if your losing spark on that side?On my 3240 seems like one of the coils is going out. I have a steep hill to mow and it seems to loose a lot of power trying to climb it. My other tractors seem to handle the hill fine and the 3240 was better about it last year than it is now.
It is the tractor that would misfire for a while when I sprayed water on one of the plug wires.
I plan to replace that coil with a new OEM coil.
Should I replace both coils while I have it apart?
If (good)coils were $15-$20, I would not think twice about it, but OEMs are closer to $45, or more.
If one coil goes bad, how likely is it that the other will soon fail?
Has anyone replaced one and still has the other one working fine years later?
My two cents on replacing both coils, I would and I would keep and mark the second coil as possibly good because it is such a PITA to replace a coil.
Well Joelk I learned my lesson by purchasing a cheap aftermarket coil made in China off Ebay. The one I installed in my 3235 at the beginning of May started misfiring after the engine got hot and I just replaced it with a Kohler coil from Opeengines. Back to running like a top. Boy what a PITA it is to change a coil.I just purchased one of these about a month ago and installed on a 25hp 3235. So far so good. One thing of note is I could barely get the .012 gap to the flywheel magnets. Never was an issue with the OEM ignition modules. X2 on the PITA replacement.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ignition-Coil-Fits-KOHLER-24-584-01S-24-584-45-S-CH18-CH20-CH22-CH23-CH620-CH621/183380023329?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
Hair spray will water proof your spark plug wires and coil....
dont use water to clean, do you use water to clean your chain saw?
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