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Discussion Starter #1
Hi,


Its finally warm enough to use my new tractor, been running a 89 Yardman for 2 years longer than i should have.

This new tractor after one cut is running great, with one exception. In the manual it states that i am to "purge" the tranmission before operation.
The steps are clearly laid out and i have followed them exactly and i cannot get the transmission to dis-engage, and so because of that i can't do the purging portion.

I can pull out the little wire hook from the rear of the tractor, but after getting back on and restarting the tractor , it still lunges forward or backward instead of staying still when i move the drive lever. I realize there may be some movement, as stated in the manual, but this is the same as when the tranny is engaged.

I have contacted sears, and they have no immediate fix other than to send someone out which could be a week and i need to cut my grass sooner not later.

Is there any one out there who has had the same issue?

The tractor is a 2009 canadian model YTS4000 (22 hp 42 inch deck, hydro static drive.)

This is a good site...i am a little weary about the tranny on this thing, i have been reading the blogs..hopefully mine is okay..it seems to work great.


maybe i should hang on to the yardmonster alittle longer?

thanks,

Scott aka grass_man
 

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I presume it is supposed to lift and hook on the outside of the keyhole like earlier models. Can you post a pic with it in and other with it out?

With it out, can you push the tractor with the engine and brake off?
 

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When I had my YS4500 you had to pull out the wire more than you think. When you pull it out, it feels like it's all the way out, but then pull it out a bit more. I know this sounds confusing but I think (hope) you understand what I mean. Give it a shot and let us know how it goes.
 

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Hi,

I was unable to post pics of the rear end of the tractor, however, i was able to contact a sears tech.

He offered me a easy way to purge the tranny while it is engaged, which by the way the purging should be done periodically (2X's per season) to improve tranny performance.

If you can do so safely, lift up one rear tire and place a block or jack under the tractor to keep it up, make sure you have no obstacles in front or behind.

Get on the tractor and start it up, now move the tranny in the forward then the back, just like in the manual.
Now all i have to do is get my car jack out of the trunk of the car this weekend!

My only issue now is why the tranny won't disengage using the little handle at the back. The sears tech, believes that the reason is because my brakes may be sticking a little bit, impeding the tranny's ability to disengage properly.

His fix is to look in the rear of the tractor while someone is moving the brake pedal and look for any spot it may be sticking and apply WD40 to. He feels because its new, that eventually it will 'right itself?' I am going to see if i can see anything, but i am hesitant to start spraying this stuff all over. I do have a warranty for a couple of years, and may have sears come to my house and set them up properly.
 

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That work-around doesn't make any sense to me at all. How would it be any different than just driving it around? When the disengage lever is pulled, it opens a bypass valve and only by opening the valve does it let out trapped air.

The only time to do that work-around is when it is so air-locked that it cannot move at all.

The malarkey about the sticking brake too has nothing at all to do with the disengage/bypass lever. What model hydro is in your tractor? It should be printed under the seat. Mine is the Hydro-Gear 0510 and I've studied the service manual for it.
 

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BTW, here is the flow diagram from the service manual. It shows the closed loop and the function of the bypass. It also shows the leakage paths.

Speaking of leakage, they are designed to leak for the purpose of lubricating and the leaking will continually purge small amounts of air. This leakage is also what causes some of the symptoms of a hydro failing due to oil viscosity breakdown. It also explains why using thicker oil on an old worn hydro helps.
 

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Don't know if this applies or not but on my transmission the handle feels like it has two positions. Halfway and fully disengaged. From everything I've read (which isn't a lot), this middle position doesn't do anything.

HTH
 

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Hi all,

Finally got the purging problem solved, basically all i did was to keep moving the little handle at the back of the tractor, while i was rocking it back and forth untill, the tranny let go and i was able to free wheel it. Once that was accomplished the purging was a snap. I then pushed the pin back in and the tranny re-engaged.

Hopefully that having delayed this procedure till after the tractors first 2 hour cut won't affect it in the future.

Having read about all the tranny problems i am wondering how long this tractor will last. I am going to adjust my mowing pattern a bit, so i am not driving directly up my incline at the front of the house, since its not that steep i will traverse the slope horizontally and reduce speed to hopefully take some load off my tranny.

From what i gather on here, the tranny life is a big question mark on these light duty tractors.

My old yardman (1989 lt1644) has seen hills larger than mine and still has 3 of the 5 gears still working without ever touching the tranny. I am hoping for ten years on this tractor

Thank you for all your suggestions. I am sure to have more questions in the near future

Grass_man
 
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