My Tractor Forum banner
  • Are you passionate about Tractors? Would you like to write about topics that interest you and get paid for it? Read all about it here!
1 - 20 of 34 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
425 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
10 HP Briggs. In my attempt to get the fly wheel off, I used a large screwdriver to help pry off the fly wheel. I subsequently put a square hole in the top of the case. The whole is about 1 inch by 1 inch.

Can a patch be welded over the top of the hole? If that won't work, how about using JB Weld and a patch, or any other ideas?

I'm not a complete idiot, I did try to use a puller on it but it wouldn't budge so I used the screwdriver to help. Bad idea and I hope I didn't ruin the motor because of it.:duh:
 

·
Certified Technician
Joined
·
8,550 Posts
If you can, post a picture of it, some places you can patch/weld and some places are not in a position to be repaired as such...
 

·
Father of 8!LordHelp'sMe!
Joined
·
738 Posts
Not trying to High-Jack this thread, BUT! ;) Why don't folks just use a puller and avoid all the problems???

Are pullers THAT expensive?? I used a big 'ol puller that I have, and was surprised how easily it came off. Didn't have to "torque" it at all.

Pulled a ton of sheeves off over the years (kinda what I do at work much of the time)....
 

·
Collector of many tractors
Joined
·
15,230 Posts
To me a puller is a waste of time...
If you use a flywheel knocker or a copper hammer and hit the crank while lifting up on the flywheel you should have no problem. I removed more flywheels this way than most people even touched one. For sheeves or pullies I use a slide hammer and if that dont work I get out the puller last.
 

·
Certified Technician
Joined
·
8,550 Posts
Not trying to High-Jack this thread, BUT! ;) Why don't folks just use a puller and avoid all the problems???

Are pullers THAT expensive?? I used a big 'ol puller that I have, and was surprised how easily it came off. Didn't have to "torque" it at all.

Pulled a ton of sheeves off over the years (kinda what I do at work much of the time)....
I save time, pull the puller out FIRST, and have never damaged a thread with it.
He did use a puller, as stated in post #1
 

·
Certified Technician
Joined
·
8,550 Posts
But seriously, pullers are nice...but Ive seen them break flywheels and damage crank ends..I personally experienced a puller nearly ruin an 18hp Briggs Intek crankshaft.

Personally, I use a mini pry-bar and a brass mallet first...if 2-3 smacks doesnt get it off, I go to the puller and if that doesnt get it, I add heat as required. 9 times out of 10, the mallet gets it off on 1-2 hits, and Ive never messed up a crank. Heck, tecumseh even sells a knocker and advises using this method...haha
 

·
Father of 8!LordHelp'sMe!
Joined
·
738 Posts
I thought he said he used a large screwdriver as a pry bar, thus making it an uneven pull, hence the 'hole'.


I've used heat, Kroil, tapping-but not too much tapping, or even hard hitting with either a hammer or a Dead-Blow.

The problem with hitting the end of any shaft, you "upset" the metal, which causes it to Expand. If that happens, then you'll be either filing, or grinding, whatever it takes to get the shaft metal back down small enough to get the sheave/flywheel off.

Luckily, the fly-wheel shafts are tapered, but if you hit it too much, you'll expand it to the point the nut won't fit anymore, till re-tapped.

Oh, and I have tapped on the end of the puller, in conjunction with the use of penetrants to try and get "things" off (pump impellers that are all corroded up are the WORSE! Most are brass, and very soft, so you can't "Pull" on them too much, and impellers on large to very large pumps are EXPENSIVE).
 

·
Collector of many tractors
Joined
·
15,230 Posts
With my heavy copper hammer I can smack the end of the crank really hard with no damage. A lead hammer would also work. Brass is a little harder and I never tried one but I'm sure it's a whole lot better than a sledge. A dead blow dosent have the umgh to get the job done. My copper hammer weighs around 2 lb. Briggs also sell a flywheel knocker. I have one made for briggs.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
340 Posts
:dunno: :dunno: This may sound stupid but it worked for me one time with a small bolt........Get 2 buddies and flip the engine up and down....side to side and see if you can find it.....Then take one of the rods with a magnet on the end and get it out.........It did work ..........John...........:fing32: :fing32:
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
1,879 Posts
I thought he said he used a large screwdriver as a pry bar, thus making it an uneven pull, hence the 'hole'.


I've used heat, Kroil, tapping-but not too much tapping, or even hard hitting with either a hammer or a Dead-Blow.

The problem with hitting the end of any shaft, you "upset" the metal, which causes it to Expand. If that happens, then you'll be either filing, or grinding, whatever it takes to get the shaft metal back down small enough to get the sheave/flywheel off.

Luckily, the fly-wheel shafts are tapered, but if you hit it too much, you'll expand it to the point the nut won't fit anymore, till re-tapped.

Oh, and I have tapped on the end of the puller, in conjunction with the use of penetrants to try and get "things" off (pump impellers that are all corroded up are the WORSE! Most are brass, and very soft, so you can't "Pull" on them too much, and impellers on large to very large pumps are EXPENSIVE).
The "secret" is to HIT the da-n thing. Never in 60 plus years of working on these things have I damaged a crank, crankcase, or crankshaft. Again, HIT it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,677 Posts
sounds like every one is in agreement beat the poop out of it.unless you can shrink an crawl in that hole and find that chunk.serious.find the piece and jb weld it back in place.good ta go.or have some one aliumiun weld.
 
1 - 20 of 34 Posts
Top