[stlcardinalfan]

I use a Hitchin' Post 3 way hitch.

They run between $15 used to $30 new without the ball. So far it has been sturdy enough and I have no complaints.

I agree completely. I put one on my garden tractor. It started to bend the lip it was mounted to so I got some 3/8 cold rolled rod and welded some braces right around where the ball mounts to the post and it is rock solid now.

 

[Fla Don]

Rear of the 8162-T that belongs to mom. My 8163-B has a receiver type hitch welded to the regular hitch. It can pull enough load behind to either spin the wheels or raise the front end off of the ground.

 

[PA RedRider]

Just for grins, I'll throw another one in the mix.
I have a class 1 stinger that I modified to fit into the main tube of a steering sulky.

Helix, you really have me wanting a steering sulky and a multimode mower now. I was going through the IPL on the steering sulkies and it looks like they have a fairly specialized (and pricey if E-Bay is to be believed, http://www.ebay.com/itm/Gravely-012...863?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item43aceb51b7) set of bolts that attach them to the hitch. They look like standard hex caps, but have an unthreaded portion or a sleeve to take the abuse of pivoting I'd assume. What's the story with these and can regular hex caps be used or is their a heuristic engineering alternative?

 

[Jimmy in NC]

They are a shoulder bolt. Think of a wheel bolt for a standard push mower. You tighten up the bolt to the shoulder and that leaves room for the up and down movement of the sulky. I think you could make something work with a lathe rather easily if you had to. Sleeve over a 1/2" bolt with a large washer on the outside.