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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have two different trailer receivers on the various trailers around here. One is the typical automotive 2" ball hitch and the other is the common garden trailer type. That means that I have to install or remove the ball from the rear hitch on the 4 wheel tractors depending on which trailer I need to move. Has anyone come up with an elegant way of dealing with this issue? I was thinking about a 2" ball hitch adapter but was considering various designs.
 

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I pull mostly with a "front engine" brand tractor because I like the hitch to be closer to the axle so as to not create front end lift.

Probably the best approach to creating the ultimate hitch for a Gravely would be a side by side arrangement.

This would give the most versatility, while keeping the hitch point(s) as close to the axle as possible.

I hate the receiver concept, you never have the correct "plug-in" with you when you need it.

AND, just where did I last leave that 2" adapter!!?? :dunno:
 

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just put 2" htiches on your garden implements.

you can also just drill out a plate of 1/4" stock and mount it to the tractor. screw the ball thru one end and the factory hole, then the other end sticks out a couple inches for you to attach a garden trailer/spreader/etc. it does not have to stick out far, and you don't use safety chains with them so it can be really simple.
 

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All of our garden and small road trailers have 2" ball hitches which makes life easy. The drag implements are set up with a hitch system much as davidg describes above. The quads, GTs, and pickups all have the same capability.

It's a really easy way to do it.

Mike
 

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I pull mostly with a "front engine" brand tractor because I like the hitch to be closer to the axle so as to not create front end lift.

Probably the best approach to creating the ultimate hitch for a Gravely would be a side by side arrangement.

This would give the most versatility, while keeping the hitch point(s) as close to the axle as possible.

I hate the receiver concept, you never have the correct "plug-in" with you when you need it.

AND, just where did I last leave that 2" adapter!!?? :dunno:
I only have a simple Ohio Steel dump cart as my only pull behind trailer/attachment, but I have never been able to put enough weight in it to lift the front of my 16G, or even slightly effect its steering.

I do have 35lb front wheel weights, but even before them, I never had any problem.

I agree the reciever concept is overkill and a nuisance on a garden tractor.

If I had need, I like the side by side idea.

Sheldon
 

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I have the same issue as Richard. I own a typical lawn and garden dump trailer, and a large utility trailer used for various over the road hauling tasks. Ocassionally it's convenient for me to move the utility tailer with the four wheel tractor. To do so a 2" ball has to be installed on the standard Gravely rear hitch plate. What a pain. But since I only do this a couple times a year I've just lived with the inconvenience. The rest of the time I use the lawn and garden trailer for simple hauling tasks around the property, and for property maintenance.

When I move the utility trailer its empty and on level ground (I don't consider the Gravely heavy enough to move any significant weight in that trailer). The tounge weight is about 80 lbs. I've often thought it would be easier to move that trailer with the 2" ball mounted on the front of the tractor. The thing is so wide it's very difficult to put it back in it's designated parking space while twisting and looking over your shoulder. It would be easy to mount a ball on the front, and I've even seen fabricated kits for Gravely riders for sale on ebay for just this purpose, that mount on the front latches. I would think that's the way to go, especially if you own a 24G with power steering! You could leave the stock rear hitch plate for the standard lawn trailer.

Another comment I have about the stock rider trailer hitch plate is that it's too close to the engine. On the 8179KT I moved the hitch away from the engine 2" by installing a 2" piece of 3/16" thick wall square steel tubing (oriented parrallel to the rear axels). All you have to do is cross drill it in the standard hole locations (4) and use 3" long high tensile strength bolts to remount the hitch with the tubing sandwiched between the hitch plate and the rear hitch arms. 2" makes all the difference when you are hooking up a trailer and dealing with not perfectly level surfaces. I still turn off the engine every time (I like my fingers).
 

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Gravely1964
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4,149 Posts
I have two different trailer receivers on the various trailers around here. One is the typical automotive 2" ball hitch and the other is the common garden trailer type. That means that I have to install or remove the ball from the rear hitch on the 4 wheel tractors depending on which trailer I need to move. Has anyone come up with an elegant way of dealing with this issue? I was thinking about a 2" ball hitch adapter but was considering various designs.
Heres what I did on my 818t. I happened to have a 3/8 bar with a big enough hole in one end for the trailer ball and a hole drilled in the other end for the dump cart and what not in my scarp pile. Seems to work great. I like it on the liftable rear hitch as I can pick up the trailers with the hydraulics and don't have to fool with the jacks or ones that don't have jacks.:thThumbsU
Steven T
 

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Here is a pic of the piece of square tubing (uninstalled) I use to extend the stock hitch away from the engine by 2". I'm not sure I'll ever use it again on the 8179KT since I now have the rear weight rack mounted on it.

 

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Old Iron Connoisseur
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Made out of 6" angle iron. 2" receiver tube x 6" long. Trailer tongue height is generally set for ~18" high for a standard tag-a-long trailer. This results in needing to use a ball that is much higher than the standard hitch to keep the jack out of the dirt. With a receiver, I can keep a low tongue for pin hitch attachments, different ball sizes and heights for any attachment, and the hitch hauler for toting junk around the yard.

For those that want to know how strong is it? It will pick the front up long before it bends. Pulled a 22' full inboard ski boat no problem... it's moved everything it's been hooked to.

More Pictures Here

 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
You just need two tractors - each with a different hitch. Than all you have to change is which tractor you sit on.
I have 4 tractors. Two can't be used to haul a trailer. One has a rear cultivator on it and the other has a grass vac with trailer attached. That leaves the 24G and the 818. The 24 G with the 72" deck is too wide for some spots. I guess I will have to get that 8129 going.
 

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Made out of 6" angle iron. 2" receiver tube x 6" long. Trailer tongue height is generally set for ~18" high for a standard tag-a-long trailer. This results in needing to use a ball that is much higher than the standard hitch to keep the jack out of the dirt. With a receiver, I can keep a low tongue for pin hitch attachments, different ball sizes and heights for any attachment, and the hitch hauler for toting junk around the yard.

For those that want to know how strong is it? It will pick the front up long before it bends. Pulled a 22' full inboard ski boat no problem... it's moved everything it's been hooked to.

More Pictures Here

Very nice 816S Jimmy, how long have you had it?
 

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Old Iron Connoisseur
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Hmmmm..... 4-5 years. My first experience with 4 wheel Gravelys. Bought it not running and with transmission troubles. Hindsight I should have parted it out, but it is still one of the cleanest riders I see in non-restored condition. Came with original manuals and all. I have way too much invested in that tractor and I talk about selling it time to time. I know deep down I'll never part with it. It was a huge undertaking to figure it all out and my dad and I enjoyed every minute of it. When we took the side off the case, shafts were laying in the bottom. When it went, it had blown some of the bosses on the inside of the case apart and thrown shafts. Ohh yeah... it wouldn't roll either.
 
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