[Jeepdriver]

I started to transfer some parts from my k181 to another one I picked up today....No problems until I got to this pulley and sleeve.....I removed the two plates that slide into the groove on the sleeve, but I can't get get anything to budge...Can someone explain how this comes off?....Thanks

 

[Teddy da Bear]

I think you need to lube it up thoroughly and let it sit overnight.
Then use a gear puller to extract it. That large sleeve in front of
the pulley is on the engine's shaft. I do not remember if there are
any set-screws holding to the shaft.

Someone with more knowledge than I might have some useful tips.

 

[Jeepdriver]

Thanks Teddy.....I just went out and hit everything with more PBlaster...I did find 2 set screws on the pulley collar....but nothing on the sleeve....The shaft is grooved like on the flywheel side....maybe there is a key holding it?....I can't see any signs of one though...

 

[Kbeitz]

You need to bolt a gear puller the the four holes.

 

[WNYTractorTinkerer]

You need to bolt a gear puller the the four holes.

You could Fab one up out of a flat piece of metal plate and a 5/8" threaded rod ground to a point on the end that mates to the Crankshaft's end. Use long screws to hook the thing to the 4 holes as Kbietz says and tighten the nut and maybe a little heat may help (not a lot!) to expand the sleeve & break things loose..

OR--> try the candle wax method.. I've heard of this but never tried it myself (Using up one of the wife's candles does present a bit of enjoyment though!):

heat it up, even a plumbers torch will usually give you enough heat. Try to heat just the pulley at the collar, then take a candle and put it to the metal and melt some wax in the area of the pulley and shaft mating surface. let it cool then try gently using a hammer or pulley puller. i had a deck off a month or so ago and the blade bolt wouldn't come out even with an impact. Tried heating, nothing, soaked with pb, nothing, heated, put the wax to it and five minutes later with the impact it zipped right off! i have used this trick to get rims off shafts, pulleys off shafts, stubborn bolts out...sounds crazy but it can work. As always, when using heat keep a fire extinguisher and/or flour handy in case of fire!:trink40: (Or get out the marshmallows!)

 

[LilysDad]

The end of the shaft has a threaded hole. Screwing a bolt in it forces the pulley off. I forget what size bolt, but you get the idea.

 

[WNYTractorTinkerer]

The end of the shaft has a threaded hole. Screwing a bolt in it forces the pulley off. I forget what size bolt, but you get the idea.

You have better eyes than me LD.. :trink40:If it is threaded a flat puller end would be needed so the threads won't be damaged..

 

[Teddy da Bear]

I don't remember if there is a key in there. It has been a while since I took one off.
But it sounds like a logical assumption.

 

[546cowboy]

Just took that pulley off a K-17 2 hours ago. There are two set screws in the pulley and they are usually hard to turn but they don't need to come all the way out. One screw goes down against a key on the shaft and the other is against the shaft.

Over the years I've had a few battles with these puleys and have lost a couple. Do NOT try to put anything behind the pulley to get it to move as you will break the belt groove. Been there and done that!

Anyway use PB Blaster and soak it real good and let it sit. The sleeve has to come off first and it does not have a key. After soaking you may be able to turn the sleeve on the shaft and slide it off. I have never used that wax trick but have heard of it before. Next time I may try that.

Once the sleeve is off take some emery paper to the crank shaft to clean it up. Now you use a puller in the 4 holes and it should come off. Good luck!:fing32:

 

[Teddy da Bear]

i do remember now the sleeve comes off first. But I would have sworn it had a keyway
with the engine shaft. But I'm probably wrong.

 

[Jeepdriver]

Thank you all for the replies....I was able to loosen the 2 set screws on the pulley....I'm gonna let it soak for another night and then tackle getting the sleeve off....

I'll take your advice about the pulley cowboy....I do have a gear puller....but I'm guessing I shouldn't try using it to remove both the sleeve and the pulley at the same time....I still can't wrap my head around how the sleeve is being held on to the shaft without a key....but it's not the first time I've been clueless about something :00000060:

All that said...I think I'd better start a thread outlining my progress....I've already got a few more questions and I don't want to start peppering the forum with a thread for each one....I'll try and take lots of pictures to keep it somewhat interesting...Thanks again for every ones help..

 

[DonF]

Thank you all for the replies....I was able to loosen the 2 set screws on the pulley....I'm gonna let it soak for another night and then tackle getting the sleeve off....

I'll take your advice about the pulley cowboy....I do have a gear puller....but I'm guessing I shouldn't try using it to remove both the sleeve and the pulley at the same time....I still can't wrap my head around how the sleeve is being held on to the shaft without a key....but it's not the first time I've been clueless about something :00000060:

All that said...I think I'd better start a thread outlining my progress....I've already got a few more questions and I don't want to start peppering the forum with a thread for each one....I'll try and take lots of pictures to keep it somewhat interesting...Thanks again for every ones help..

The sleeve is just held in place with the two clips bolted to the clutch plate.
It should be loose on the shaft. The only thing holding it is rust.

 

[LilysDad]

The end of the shaft has a threaded hole. Screwing a bolt in it forces the pulley off..

Sorry, I misspoke!! The electric pto has a threaded hole for said purpose. However,the hole we're discussing is threaded, for whatever purpose.

 

[LilysDad]

All that said...I think I'd better start a thread outlining my progress......

Might as well just continue on this one, you've already got our attention!

 

[WNYTractorTinkerer]

Might as well just continue on this one, you've already got our attention!

Yuppers LD!!! :ditto::thThumbsU

 

[Teddy da Bear]

Yeah like a best seller..... Hope you don't have any "plot" twists!

 

[Jeepdriver]

The sleeve is just held in place with the two clips bolted to the clutch plate.
It should be loose on the shaft. The only thing holding it is rust.

Well that explains that. :thanku: ...I still haven't gotten it loose yet....I'll give it another day... I can't really spend any time messing with today anyhoo...I do have time for another question though...:trink40:

The first picture is the reason I'm in the postition I'm in....:banghead3

The next two are of the...well honestly....I'm not sure what it's called...the armature? of the two engines....

The first is of the "new" engine(which I was able to purchase because of magnet problems on it's flywheel...another question for later...lol).

The second is of my original engine(the one with the stuck sleeve)...

Even though the picture sizes aren't the same...I hope you can tell armature(?) of my "old" engine is...for lack of a better word... "beefier" than the "new" one...even the "pads" on the "old" one are wider than the other

So...since I'll be transferring my "old" flywheel to the "new" engine...should I also swap out the armature(?) with it?....

Thanks...

 

[546cowboy]

The threaded hole in the end of the crankshaft is for the purpose of holding an electric clutch and even after WH quit using the electric clutch other manufacturers didnt. That's why the threads are still in there.

That is true that when you remove those 4 bolts and the two plates, the sleeve is supposed to slide off. In your case the rust is holding it on.

From reading your post I have to tell you agan, DO NOT USE A GEAR PULLER!!!!!!! You can probably use a steering wheel puller in two of the 1/4" holes to pull the pulley. When you put tension on the puller don't try to over tighten it. Instead use a SMALL ball peen hammer and tap the center bolt of the puller. When it moves then you tighten the cener bolt and it should come off.

Just so you know I was a GM mechanic for over 20 years so I have done this kind of thing many times. They didn't pay me to break stuff.

I see you have posted some pictures. That thing is your charging system and the new-to-you one is most likely a 15 amp stator. Your original was smaller in amperage. The new one should work fine but measure the thickness and make sure you have clearence. In other words both flywheels should be the same depth inside.

By the way you can epoxy the magnets back in as long as the are not broken or cracked or chipped and you space them correctly.

 

[Jeepdriver]

From reading your post I have to tell you agan, DO NOT USE A GEAR PULLER!!!!!!! You can probably use a steering wheel puller in two of the 1/4" holes to pull the pulley. When you put tension on the puller don't try to over tighten it. Instead use a SMALL ball peen hammer and tap the center bolt of the puller. When it moves then you tighten the cener bolt and it should come off.

Just so you know I was a GM mechanic for over 20 years so I have done this kind of thing many times. They didn't pay me to break stuff.

I do understand what you're saying...My lack of proper terminology in regards to pullers...and probably other parts too... seems to be the problem...the puller I have requires bolts to be inserted into the piece to be pulled...Sorry for the confusion..

 

[546cowboy]

That's OK. Terminology is difficult to get for a relative newcomer. Actually I have broken one of those pulleys and that's why I know what I'm talking about. I was able to weld that pulley and fix it but welding cast is tough.

Just remember to take it slow and not get in a big hurry to get things done and there is plenty of help here on the site.

After reading your post about the stators, I see I had that backwards. The thicker one would be the 15 amp. and that is the one to use.