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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I saw this one on Ebay. Says upgraded tp 10amp...........Is that okay to buy or just go to John Deere and get a original one like they carry. No idea what amp the JohnDeere one is.


Also some info on how to get that switch out of the dash? Do you just pull on it real hard and it pops out or is there a special way to take it out?

When it failed, I had just turned on tractor and pulled the switch up and it started to smell and smoke up like burnt wires, took off the screens and inspected wires look fine, also took out the 2---- 15 amp fuses and they looked fine too.

So I believe it's just the switch that is bad........ if I pull out the connector from the back of the switch should the tractor still start or is there some kind of safety built into the switch where you need a good switch for the tracor to still start?

Things always break down on Sunday's so no way of going to John Deere today for a new switch today?

Any help appreciated, TIA
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Okay I figured out how to get the switch out and checking it with a Digital Multimeter. I set the multimeter on "Noise"

There are a series of 3-3-2 pins on the back of the switch. When the switch is in the closed position, setting the probes on the outside pins of the first and second row of 3 pins I get the "Beep sound" but when I put the probes on each pin of the 2 pin series I get no beep at all, does that mean I have a bad switch?
 

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You need a schematic to know for sure, but usually the PTO switch is one of the "safeties".

This what the X700 series uses. I suspect it is the same for yours.

Park machine safely in neutral with park brake locked.
2. Raise hood.
3. Disconnect PTO/RIO switch connector.
4. Put PTO/RIO switch in the off position.
MIF
5. Use and ohmmeter to test switch continuity in off, on,
and momentary (RIP) positions.

Specifications:
Switch Position
Terminal Continuity

Off
A and C
D and F

On
A and B
D and E

Momentary (RIP)
A and B
D and E
G and H
Results:
All other possible combinations have infinite resistance. If
any continuity is NOT correct, replace switch.

The labeling is (looking at the back of the switch). Row with two terminals at the bottom. A is right terminal at the top. B and C are next two (going to the left) in the row. D to F are the next row. G and H are the next row.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
You need a schematic to know for sure, but usually the PTO switch is one of the "safeties".

This what the X700 series uses. I suspect it is the same for yours.

Park machine safely in neutral with park brake locked.
2. Raise hood.
3. Disconnect PTO/RIO switch connector.
4. Put PTO/RIO switch in the off position.
MIF
5. Use and ohmmeter to test switch continuity in off, on,
and momentary (RIP) positions.

Specifications:
Switch Position
Terminal Continuity

Off
A and C
D and F

On
A and B
D and E

Momentary (RIP)
A and B
D and E
G and H
Results:
All other possible combinations have infinite resistance. If
any continuity is NOT correct, replace switch.

The labeling is (looking at the back of the switch). Row with two terminals at the bottom. A is right terminal at the top. B and C are next two (going to the left) in the row. D to F are the next row. G and H are the next row.
Explain the G & H test under the Monentary (RIP).....(what does this mean)

Watch this guy test G And H on the second switch, the brand new switch he has.............he gets his switch to beep when touching G and H in the off( closed) position, mine doesn't do that...........I'm confused.

Is my switch good or bad?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Okay here is another guy doing the test..............when he pulls the switch on, he gets G and H do beep, mine doesn't so I guess my switch is bad.

 

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RIP probably should be RIO. That means pull up on the switch, like you have to do if you want to go in reverse and keep the PTO on.

(The cut and paste from the PDF had some oddities. I thought I corrected them all, but might have missed that one.)

There is no actual schematic in my TSM for the X74x.
 

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If that is the only thing that is wrong, it just means the PTO will shut off when you go in reverse. You should still be able to use it going forwards. But, it does sound like you need a new switch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
If that is the only thing that is wrong, it just means the PTO will shut off when you go in reverse. You should still be able to use it going forwards. But, it does sound like you need a new switch.
Do you know if the tractor should start without that switch connected into the connector? or must that switch be in working order and it the wire connector to star the tractor..........right now I have the switch off the tractor.

I guess for now before I try anything else, is to go get a new PTO switch and maybe some 15amp fuses in the morning and see if i can getting it running again.............Hope it isn't any electrical issues because I'm not that good finding gremlins with it comes to electric problems.

I turned it right off when I saw smoke coming up through just under the PTO Switch in that screen grill part just under the switch............I shut it right down when I saw that.......Tractor is currently in my side yard. Hopefully I can get it running before we get all that rain coming from the hurricane down south heading our way.
 

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Generally, only the brake switch is required for starting the engine (and running). Once the engine is started, either the brake has to be on, or all the other safeties need to be happy. Without the PTO switch there, it will not be "happy". I think your switch is working well enough to let the engine start and stay running.

Do you know where the smoke came from? Switches generally don't have the magic blue smoke in them (so they typically don't release it). If the contacts are really bad, they could get hot and smoke. Or, if they make a connection that they shouldn't, that could smoke.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Generally, only the brake switch is required for starting the engine (and running). Once the engine is started, either the brake has to be on, or all the other safeties need to be happy. Without the PTO switch there, it will not be "happy". I think your switch is working well enough to let the engine start and stay running.

Do you know where the smoke came from? Switches generally don't have the magic blue smoke in them (so they typically don't release it). If the contacts are really bad, they could get hot and smoke. Or, if they make a connection that they shouldn't, that could smoke.
Wasn't a blue smoke, more white I guess, the smoking came out right about just under where the PTO Switch is. Smell electrical. I sure hope it's the switch..............See what happens tomorrow after I pick up the switch and make the install.

When I turn the key, I here a click and the dash lights up, just won't trun the engine over...........I think that is just about what it does when a safety isn't working like trying to start when brake isn't set or mower blades are left on when trying to start.

Have had a bad connection with cables on the battery recently but this seems different because the dash is lighting up and the click is as loud as normal when heating up the glow plugs. X495 is diesel.
 

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Magic smoke - Wikipedia

I don't have an actual schematic for the X700 series (the TSM I have doesn't have a real schematic in it). But, the one for the X500 series has the PTO/RIO switch with 5 terminals. The purple wire for the solenoid goes through the PTO switch. Only when the PTO is off can you actually start the the engine. I would expect the same for the X495. The click you hear is the accessory power relay that turns on when you put the key switch to On. You should be able to use a jumper on the purple wires for testing purposes to verify it is only the switch that is bad/causing the problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Magic smoke - Wikipedia

I don't have an actual schematic for the X700 series (the TSM I have doesn't have a real schematic in it). But, the one for the X500 series has the PTO/RIO switch with 5 terminals. The purple wire for the solenoid goes through the PTO switch. Only when the PTO is off can you actually start the the engine. I would expect the same for the X495. The click you hear is the accessory power relay that turns on when you put the key switch to On. You should be able to use a jumper on the purple wires for testing purposes to verify it is only the switch that is bad/causing the problem.
Thanks for the info, a thunder storm is starting up now, not sure I want to go out and mess with it now and it will be dark soon.
I did check all the wires, nothing looks melted or charred at all so I think it must have been the switch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
Well it wasn't the PTO SWITCH...............also changed those 2 -- 15amp fuses, wasn't that either..........I suppose the seat switch doesn't matter if that is working if the brake is set? correct?

So where is the brake safety switch on an X495, looked under the foot rest, don't really see anything?


EDIT::::::I found it , it's on the opposite side the brake pedal is on, Is there a way to test if the brake switch is bad, can i just somehow use a jumper in the wire connector to check that...............and why on earth is that brake switch attached by just a rivet that is super hard to get to?
 

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You can use a jumper in the brake switch connector. The PTO will no longer work so you will need to figure out why the switch is not working, if that is it. Could be switch, wiring, or not getting actuated/mechanical.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
You can use a jumper in the brake switch connector. The PTO will no longer work so you will need to figure out why the switch is not working, if that is it. Could be switch, wiring, or not getting actuated/mechanical.
Brake switch tested out okay to, when testing when plunger in and out continuity jumped from 1 set of terminals to the other set of terminals.

Looks like a trip to the shop, this I think is beyond my capabilities. If its a wire situation I want no parts of that at this time.

The smoking I saw has me more concerned now it might be something bigger more costly.

Taking it tomorrow, turn around is 7 to 10 days right now depending parts ability and what the issue is.

I think battery is fine, plenty of juice, Head lights super bright and dash lights up, hear the clicking sound like normal when turning key. Just weird !
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Turns out it was the module burnt up,also replaced rotary switch....had the dealer fix it....Here's a few picture I took after I got up off the floor. $$$ cha ching


Circuit component Green Passive circuit component Electrical wiring Hood
Circuit component Passive circuit component Green Hardware programmer Electrical wiring
 

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Turns out it was the module burnt up,also replaced rotary switch....had the dealer fix it....Here's a few picture I took after I got up off the floor. $$$ cha ching


View attachment 2519083 View attachment 2519084
Did you also check/repair anything else? For me, a circuit board with traces that burned off is typically because there's a short circuit somewhere, and it would be more likely to be somewhere else. It's not impossible for it to just be that circuit board/ignition switch, just relatively unlikley.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
That's all the dealer found....you can see on the back of the module the copper band just broke off...could that have made it fry?
Would a short wire make that copper band break...or just age and the tractor bouncing cause it to snap?
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Did you also check/repair anything else? For me, a circuit board with traces that burned off is typically because there's a short circuit somewhere, and it would be more likely to be somewhere else. It's not impossible for it to just be that circuit board/ignition switch, just relatively unlikley.
Ut Oh ! I think you might be right, just mowed my acre and half yard, in 2 different sessions. After the 2nd session, I tuned the tractor off and then waited about 5 minutes and wanted to see if it would restart to put the tractor away.

Yup, it wouldn't start.........Phone call to John Deere in the morning.

Hopefully they come and pick it up this time, had my neighbor take and pickup the tractor the 1st time, hate to bother him again.

They charged me $850 for the 1st visit. NOT happy.

So you think there is a short in the wires somewhere to cause something like this?
 

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Yes, it's likely there is a problem somewhere, and it's more likely (IMHO) a wire somewhere, or possibly some electric device that has failed.

It is possible that just that circuit board/ignition switch failed, either due to marginal design or a chip/relay on the board has failed or the switch failed, causing the short, but that would be a pretty rare thing to happen.
 
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