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Discussion Starter #1
I am at a bit of a loss. I was having a great time mowing with my repowered GT17 -Predator 670. When the front PTO disengaged. I thought a wire must have come loose or the switch gave out. I checked the rear PTO and it's fine. I ran a wire from the positive post of my battery to the lead directly off the PTO and nothing. I even rechecked the air gap. Only God and the tractor know how many hours are on the machine. Is the PTO a known failure point? Is the tractor rejecting the Chinese engine? Are there other thngs I should look at? I see new Xtreme clutch's for sale for $400.00. After the repower my wife isn't keen on spending more money but I cant go back to a push mower. I appreciate you ideas and input.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Why would that be stupid? Yes they are. When I apply power to the clutch I usually hear a metallic click. I don't hear that even when wiring directly from the battery. The rear PTO clicks just fine.
 

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If you don't get a click when you apply 12V to the coil make sure that the coil is grounded. On my Simplicity Sunstar 12V is supplyed at the left side (Looking at the clutch) and there is a ground coming out of the right side. If you check the coil resistance it should be around 3 ohms. Mine check in at 7 ohms and it still worked O.K. after I cleaned up the clutch facing with my sander with 220 paper. I lucked out and everything is now working good. (Saved about $500. ) Herb:tango_face_smile:
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thank you for the advice. There is only a single wire coming from the clutch. That is where I have been connecting the positive lead from the battery. I will try running another lead from the clutch to ground and see what happens. I just had the clutch apart and cleaned it with carb cleaner. I should've hit it with a little abrasive too
 

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Do you have the clutch diagnostic and airgap part of the repair manual? If not it should be on here some where or I can post it again if need be.

Check for a small, round wire on the back side of the backplate. Supposed to check and make sure it is not damaged or broken and that the insulation is not scorched or broken away. That's the clutch ground.
Ariens calls for a .3 to .5 ohm reading at the power connection with the power wire removed.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I have the manual somewhere. Thank you! I honestly don't recall there being a second wire on my clutch I know there were different style clutches used and mine is the older design. I tried running a wire from the battery to the wire on the clutch and a jumper from the back plate of the clutch to ground. I used to hear the click as it engaged. No click ?. Then I broke out my brand new craftsman multi meter. After checking the directions I put the red lead on the wire on the clutch and battery. The black lead on the backing plate and touched the other end to several other well grounded spots and no reading. I read this as an open circuit. Right? I touched the leads together and got a reading just to test it. I'm afraid it might be time to start a go fund me page to get a new Xtreme clutch. I will certainly welcome other ideas as well. Thank you again.
 

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I have the manual somewhere. Thank you! I honestly don't recall there being a second wire on my clutch I know there were different style clutches used and mine is the older design. I tried running a wire from the battery to the wire on the clutch and a jumper from the back plate of the clutch to ground. I used to hear the click as it engaged. No click ?. Then I broke out my brand new craftsman multi meter. After checking the directions I put the red lead on the wire on the clutch and battery. The black lead on the backing plate and touched the other end to several other well grounded spots and no reading. I read this as an open circuit. Right? I touched the leads together and got a reading just to test it. I'm afraid it might be time to start a go fund me page to get a new Xtreme clutch. I will certainly welcome other ideas as well. Thank you again.
Should be no voltage threw the clutch to ground. The air gap would prevent that. You should get an ohm reading from the clutch hot connection to ground with the hot wire disconnected. That is the .3 to .5 reading. A 12 volt reading at the disconnected clutch hot wire with the ignition on and the front clutch switch on. Do you still have an operating pto light in the console that works? If all safety switches are working it should come on with the ignition and pto switch on. If the rear pto works my guess is all safety switches are functioning. Don't forget to put the hydro level in natural or park and activate the seat switch while testing the electrical.

My manual only shows one series of front clutch for all GTs if that helps.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Now I have a dumb question. If I run a wire from the battery positive terminal to the power wire on the clutch and another wire from the backplate of the clutch to ground. Shouldn't I hear the click if its working? Does the air gap prevent is from happening? Should I be placing the grounding wire some place other than the backplate?

My PTO light doesn't work anymore. However about two hours run time ago I did replace the seat and didn't bother with reconnecting the safety switch. I wonder why it would run fine without it for hours then decide to disengage the PTO?

I can't tell you how much I appreciate you all helping me troubleshoot this.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
After re reading your advice it makes a lot more sense. I guess it was too early for my brain. When I check the lead connecting to the power there is 13.7 volts so the power is getting to the clutch. I looked really closely at the clutch and close to the positive lead there looks like what may have been a wire connection which has long since fallen off
I took my ohms meter and tried red on the positive lead of the clutch and black on the suspected ground and nothing. I kept the red lead on and touched several places on the clutch looking for a reading with the black lead and again got nothing.

My next step is to remove the clutch and go from there. I will keep you posted.

Thanks again ?
 

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I am surprised it even runs once out of park or neutral with the seat switch disconnected. Just putting in a jumper will drain the battery. One has to appreciate that design flawed safety device.
With a hot wire to the clutch does it lockup?
As to the ground wire. The coil needs to be grounded to complete the circuit when electricity is applied.
Think of it as two fixed magnets placed with opposite poles together but not touching. They will spin together as if connected with the correct air gap.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Just for my own information I started researching other clutch manufacturers to see what may be out there. Warner did not have anything suitable. Stens had what they call an Xtreme clutch for $450.00. The name threw me. Does Stens own Xtreme outdoor products who sell a clutch for $389? Finally another question I found a used clutch for $225. Of course its in great condition or so I am told. I couldn't tell a good one from a bad one. So, my question is it worth driving 2 hours and saving $169.00 to get the used clutch? I'm leaning towards the $389 clutch mostly because its new with a 1 year warranty. What do you think?

In the meantime I will removing my current clutch for testing. The 100 degree plus days here are kind of hindering my enthusiasm. I'll be back with more questions I am sure.

Again I am in your debt. Thank you
 

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The used on maybe fine. It all depends upon how you value your time. But it would not be worth it to me. They are not that hard to test even if off tho.
Will the new fit the Preditor shaft without an adaptor?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I've decided to go with the Xtreme clutch. One reason is I learned the seller has a warehouse 10 minutes from my house. As for the new clutch fitting properly, I already have .125" sleave in place so there new one should fit. I hope I didn't just jinx myself. I am attaching a photo of the old clutch. I don't know enough about them to identify what caused the failure but the failure is pretty easy to see. I will keep you posted on how the new clutch goes on.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I finally had time to install the extreme clutch. I am attempting to burnish the new clutch. The manufacturer says set throttle at 1/2 and engage wait until blades are at full speed. Disengage thr clutch. Do this ten times. My problem is the moment I engage the clutch the engine dies. It's not violent it just shuts down. The mower deck and blades appear to be moving freely as they should. Could the clutch brake be stuck on? I am really at a loss.
 

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Clutch brake? With the belt off my front PTO it free wheels to a stop. You are trying to engage it while sitting in the seat. Other wise the engine is supposed to shut down. I am not sure about the clutch you have installed, but I would not know why it would have a clutch brake. The front PTO does turn when not engaged?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
The Xtreme clutch comes with a clutch brake for safety. I'm not 100% sure how it works. I've written Xtreme tech support hoping they may have some ideas. I'm going to see if I can take a video tomorrow. It might help show how the clutch works and what's going on.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
No, I went with the #*720. It seemed to be the best fit for my KT17. I stumbled across a blog from a few years describing my exact issue. It even gave a remedy. Simply disconnect the red-red/black wire on the 670. Everything is working perfectly. Now I need to figure out what I disconnected.
 
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